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Eager Beaver's


antarmike

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Richard, could you or someone remind me the uses of the 3 valves. If facing forwards i.e. back to the engine, if my memory serves me correctly, there are 2 (yellow?) valves on the left and 1 (red?) on right. In order to get 4 wheel steer, does one open both yellow and close red or? For 2 wheel steer (front) is it to close rear yellow and open front and again close red. Crab = ?

 

Giles,

 

I started reading your post, thinking "that is familiar" then realised it was a quote from my post :confused: :D.

 

To be honest I cannot remember the valve sequence, but do think there was a diagram plate on the top of the chassis with arrows point to the realvent valves for 2 or 4 wheel steering. Antarmike has one and will no doubt chime in soon!

 

There was no "Crab steer" facility on these, the only army machine that had that was the Muir Hill A5000 Mk1 light digger.

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Another thing. If I want to take a major outlet from the hydraulics after the boom and all. Where is the best place to tee into the system so as not to upset hydraulic priorities?

If this is not a good move then I need to run and auxiliary pump of similar output to the Beaver's. I am not sure if there is a spare belt pulley on the crank or if there is anyway of fitting a dog-clutch to the end of the crank. I noticed the picture of the Beaver with the servo so that one must have had and extra pulley on.

Has anyone any experience of either of these mods please?

I may sound vague about the pulley etc but I have not collected the Beaver yet and have not driven one since the Army days 30+ years ago.

Are the oil/fuel filters standard Fergie Perkins filters for that engine or specials?:nut:

 

More questions to follow - thanks guys.

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I remember the Muck-Heap A-5000 and it's crab steering ability. It is just that asking about the valves is because when I collect the machine, there will be no-one around who is familiar with them and the trailer is 73.5 inches wide (E-B is 73") so not a lot of room for error or I will damage the trailer sides. The bed is 10 feet and I 'hope' I have calculated the the Beaver is 10ft from far end of tyre to far end of other tyre. Calculated by 100" wheelbase and fitted with 11 x 20 tyres I hope means adding 1/2 of each tyre therefore 20" =120 = 10 ft exactly.

Anyone wish to correct this? Trailer sides are low - Ifor Williams maybe 1 ft.

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ebm1.jpg

ebm2.jpg

Above is hydraulic circuit for Prototypes and Mk1 E.B's Mk2 is slightly different. I have just put this one up at the moment because I am knacked having driven down from Scotland in atrocious winds and have only just got home. Tomorrow, if I get a chance i will scan some Hydraulic stuff for the production Mk2 E.B.s but I will have to dig out the technical manuals and they are not to hand tonite. Mike

Edited by antarmike
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The pedal box could be destructed by folding the mast back without sideshifting to the left........at least they gave us plenty of work repairing them. :)

 

 

The pedal box on the Mk2 was protected by Micro switches and an electric solenoid valve. If these are fitted and operational they prevent the destruction of the pedal box.

 

Pedal box could only be flattened on the Prototype / Mark 1 vehicles and those Mk2 vehicles were someone had interfered with or removed those micros switches and the Solenoid valve./

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Pedal box could only be flattened on the Prototype / Mark 1 vehicles and those Mk2 vehicles were someone had interfered with or removed those micros switches and the Solenoid valve./

 

Those microswitches were always failing and have seen a number of Mk2 EB's with crushed pedalboxes. We were repairing a good deal of EB's in 70's/80's.

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The trailer is 73.5 inches wide (E-B is 73") so not a lot of room for error or I will damage the trailer sides. The bed is 10 feet and I 'hope' I have calculated the the Beaver is 10ft from far end of tyre to far end of other tyre. Calculated by 100" wheelbase and fitted with 11 x 20 tyres I hope means adding 1/2 of each tyre therefore 20" =120 = 10 ft exactly.

Anyone wish to correct this? Trailer sides are low - Ifor Williams maybe 1 ft.

Width is correct but 6' 1" does not include any bulge in the tyre sidewall. It might be worth having some sort of tyre inflater with you. There should be a pointer ahead of the offside rear track rod. This is lined up with a painted white line on the track rod when wheels are straight ahead. (on my vehicle) but manual also says pointer lines up with end of track rod tube and gives an illustration that does not show the ball end lock nut so it is not immediately obvious whether the pointer lines with the rod end or the outside of the lock nut.

You should be adding the diameter of the tyre, not the diameter of the rim, to the wheelbase to work out Trailer bed length required. Adding 20" is only adding half the rim size fore and half the rim size aft of the wheelbase, ( but this 20" is measured at the base of the tyre bead,! The OD of rim itself isactually nearer 24") At 10 feet exactly you are short by twice the distance the tyre projects forward or back from the rim's well. Too tired tonite but tomorrow I can go and measure at realistic length from front of front tyre to rear of rear tyre, but it is a lot more than your estimate...Mike

 

ebm3.jpg

Check weight capacity for Ifor Williams trailer. If it is a two axle Ifor it will I suspect be overloaded. The three axle Ifor may carry an Eager Beaver. Unladen weight of an E.B. is 6083Lbs or 2759Kgs (2.759 Tonnes), It will of course be more than this if it has the Standard late pattern Army Roll Cage fitted.

Edited by antarmike
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Overall length from back of rear tyre to front of front tyre is 8' 4" plus 3' 7" . (3' 7" being the overall height of a part worn Michelin XL 11.00 x 20 tyre.)

Plan for a length of 12' 1" though if tyre are very worm you might squeeze one on 12' 0" bed trailer.

 

Drive it home, they are comfortable at 35-40 MPH !

Mike

Edited by antarmike
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Mike - Thank you very much indeed for all that. It was the windiest we have had here in Somerset for 2 years so driving round Scotland (which I know well especially in bad weather) yes you must be well knackered.

 

My trailer is 3 ton twin axle digger trailer. But to get 12'1" will mean running up over front using spreader beams from bucket support area.

Since when is a Beaver comfortable to drive at 35-40:wow: and it is 90 miles:nut:. No rollcage, no lights - no hope!!!! But it is an idea. Not sure how popular I would be on the M27.

 

Will copy the 2-4 wheel steer config down. I never remember any instructions ever on any I drove. Probably been covered in 'Deep Bronze Green'

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At this stage I do not even know if I have bought a Mk1 or Mk11. Will not know until I get there and look for the hydraulic filter housing mount. I think Antar said mounted on outside of frame is Mk1 and mounted inside is Mk11. No mudguards fitted - surprise surprise.

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Mike - Thank you very much indeed for all that. It was the windiest we have had here in Somerset for 2 years so driving round Scotland (which I know well especially in bad weather) yes you must be well knackered.

 

My trailer is 3 ton twin axle digger trailer. But to get 12'1" will mean running up over front using spreader beams from bucket support area.

Since when is a Beaver comfortable to drive at 35-40:wow: and it is 90 miles:nut:. No rollcage, no lights - no hope!!!! But it is an idea. Not sure how popular I would be on the M27.

 

Will copy the 2-4 wheel steer config down. I never remember any instructions ever on any I drove. Probably been covered in 'Deep Bronze Green'

 

Watch the weight on the trailer the EB weighs 2759Kgs, The Tri-axle plant trailer has gross weight of 3500, Take one from the other means trailer should weigh empty 741 Kgs or less or you will be overloaded.

 

Ifor williams list the three axle plant trailers at 905 to 930 Kgs according to specification so I would advise against using tri axle plant trailer only the LM 146 two axle flatbed has a low enough empty weight of 735Kgs to legally carry an Eager Beaver. I can't see another in their range that can do it legally. Mike

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At this stage I do not even know if I have bought a Mk1 or Mk11. Will not know until I get there and look for the hydraulic filter housing mount. I think Antar said mounted on outside of frame is Mk1 and mounted inside is Mk11. No mudguards fitted - surprise surprise.

I said that somewhere.....(there is both Antar, and AntarMike on this Forum and we aren't the same person!)

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What - 2 people drive antars - voluntarily. I am impressed:-D

Thanks for the overload warning. My digger is heavier than a EB. Tyre pressures are 90 and 3000kg capacity. 8 years old now. Be better when I get the old richardson trailer rebuilt if I can get it light enough.

I am now wondering if I dare drive that distance at 25mph never mind 40:shocked:. Not sure how to insure it as no plate or docs as far as I know. And insurance company closed Saturdays. Will discuss it with them.

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What - 2 people drive antars - voluntarily. I am impressed:-D

 

We both (reluntantly) sold our Antars, all that is left is the stain on the shed floor, an empty bank balance, and the name we still use on here!

Edited by antarmike
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Another thing. If I want to take a major outlet from the hydraulics after the boom and all. Where is the best place to tee into the system so as not to upset hydraulic priorities?

- thanks guys.

Mk2 Hydraulics diagram

page29-1.jpg

page30.jpg

page31.jpg

page32.jpg

page38.jpg

page39.jpg

page40.jpg

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page42-1.jpg

 

What do you propose to run from a Hydraulic take off Giles? What Flow rate at how many Bar? Will it run continuously? Do you want to use it on the move when you will be steering?

 

The preferential flow control valve is I believe what is now more generally termed a Priority bypass valve. The three mast cylinders are driven from the bypass side of this valve. The Controlled priority flow is to the steering valve. I think you will always need to protect the flow to the steering valve, (for safety reasons) Therefore any tapping would have to be taken, I would have thought from the bypass side of this valve. ( at the test point? Item 4 fig 15) You might have split the pipe at the test point and put in another priority bypass valve at this location, (where it is fed from the bypass of the existing priority bypass valve,) with the controlled priority flow from this second valve feeding the three mast cylinders,(i.e. new valve before the Pressure relief valve of the three bank spool valve) and take the Hydraulic tapping you require from the bypass of this second Priority bypass valve.

 

But I am no great Hydraulics expert so I suggest you copy this info and talk this over with your local Hydraulic company.

 

Unless anyone on here has any thoughts now the hydraulic circuitry is available for study?

Edited by antarmike
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If this is not a good move then I need to run and auxiliary pump of similar output to the Beaver's. I am not sure if there is a spare belt pulley on the crank or if there is anyway of fitting a dog-clutch to the end of the crank. I noticed the picture of the Beaver with the servo so that one must have had and extra pulley on.

More questions to follow - thanks guys.

Eager Beaver just has a single pulley on the crank that drives the alternator and the water pump/fan

ebpulley002.jpg

ebpulley001.jpg

Edited by antarmike
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Oh yes as to my intended modification....

I am designing a firewood processor to mount part-time on the front. Required flow rate is 16 gallons a minute/70 ltrs which by chance, I beleive, is an EB's flow rate. It would be used when the EB is stationary and most of the 7 cylinders or motors are low flow requirement. Only 1 will require maximum flow.

I notice from your handbooks the only difference I have spotted so far is the pressure the Mk1 & Mk11 run at.

I have not fully decided to use the EB's system but I would need to find a way of running an external pump as and when required if I do not go down that route. Will have to wait until I have it back here and finished playing with it to start with.:cool2:

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Mike I like your thoughts on tapping in. Agree totally on getting the priorities Steering then mast then ancillary unit.

 

I will get some pics on here when I get it and then as and when the project develops. The reason for using a Beaver is, simplicity, narrowness (working in the woods without damage as a Loadall would) speed around the place (if you can stay on) and finally I like Eager Beavers and that is probably the best reason.

I hope to take it to a local vehicle show this year - Yesterday's Farming. Military kit there as well.

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Oh yes as to my intended modification....

I am designing a firewood processor to mount part-time on the front. Required flow rate is 16 gallons a minute/70 ltrs which by chance, I beleive, is an EB's flow rate. It would be used when the EB is stationary and most of the 7 cylinders or motors are low flow requirement. Only 1 will require maximum flow.

I notice from your handbooks the only difference I have spotted so far is the pressure the Mk1 & Mk11 run at.

I have not fully decided to use the EB's system but I would need to find a way of running an external pump as and when required if I do not go down that route. Will have to wait until I have it back here and finished playing with it to start with.:cool2:

 

Giles,

 

There may be another way to drive a pump. It is a long time since I have been around an EB, but the Bedford gearbox has a standard SAE power take off mounting ( the pressed steel cover on the side), if there is room, a drive to another pump could be mounted on there.

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Giles,

 

There may be another way to drive a pump. It is a long time since I have been around an EB, but the Bedford gearbox has a standard SAE power take off mounting ( the pressed steel cover on the side), if there is room, a drive to another pump could be mounted on there.

That would be a very good solution....

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