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bedford mw


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Hi gps here, i am getting to that stage when i need to start thinking about the cab hood and rear body tarp for my bedford mw:confused: .It has doors and so will need door tops too,i have none of the hoods ,no frame either.Does any one know where i can purchase the canvas or pattern so i can have one made .I have tried allied forces,they tell me no british being made any more :cry:,i have tryed others but american fine no british :nut:.

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Hi gps here, i am getting to that stage when i need to start thinking about the cab hood and rear body tarp for my bedford mw:confused: .It has doors and so will need door tops too,i have none of the hoods ,no frame either.Does any one know where i can purchase the canvas or pattern so i can have one made .I have tried allied forces,they tell me no british being made any more :cry:,i have tryed others but american fine no british :nut:.

 

Hi gps,

I am sure there is an old cab canvas and two door tops in my workshop. They were left over after a restoration some years ago when I replaced them with new ones. Canvas only good for patterns though, door top frames are OK.

Send me an email via the forum with your email address and I will try and remember to photograph them.

 

regards, Richard

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Hi gps here, i am getting to that stage when i need to start thinking about the cab hood and rear body tarp for my bedford mw:confused: .It has doors and so will need door tops too,i have none of the hoods ,no frame either.Does any one know where i can purchase the canvas or pattern so i can have one made .I have tried allied forces,they tell me no british being made any more :cry:,i have tryed others but american fine no british :nut:.

 

Try Googling "Undercover Covers", I'll see if I can find the web address for you in the morning.

 

Pete

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Try Googling "Undercover Covers", I'll see if I can find the web address for you in the morning.

 

 

 

I had a full set of canvas made for a MW once by Steve at Undercover Covers, excellent job, he did it in the heavy flax canvas as it would have been originally. Even had the MW on his advert at the time.

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I had a full set of canvas made for a MW once by Steve at Undercover Covers, excellent job, he did it in the heavy flax canvas as it would have been originally. Even had the MW on his advert at the time.

 

Likewise Richard, Steve did all the canvas work on my C15A 12 cab in heavy flax, copper mesh windows and leather straps a real work of art working from supplied original samples and factory photos. I rate his attention to detail very highly and his standard of finish and use of the correct materials is exemplary particularly for the more esoteric vehicles. Like you my C15A was on his advertisement board for a number of years. I saw him advertising somewhere recently I'll try and find it.

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Likewise Richard, Steve did all the canvas work on my C15A 12 cab in heavy flax, copper mesh windows and leather straps a real work of art working from supplied original samples and factory photos. I rate his attention to detail very highly and his standard of finish and use of the correct materials is exemplary particularly for the more esoteric vehicles. Like you my C15A was on his advertisement board for a number of years. I saw him advertising somewhere recently I'll try and find it.

 

I spoke to Steve last at W&P last July, he referred to Pete's truck when I asked him if he could make me a CMP 15-cwt cover. These days he (also) trades under the name of comptons2000.co.uk, he told me they are very busy working on many projects for the MoD. Told him I wasn't in a hurry, but have yet to hear from him re. the quote :( So please let me know if you catch him on a not-so-busy day.

 

Sorry to hear Allied Canvas is no longer doing British, seems the Worthing's - http://www.canvasco.com/ - too focus on US vehicles these days, but I would ask them for a quote for your MW anyway

Edited by mcspool
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Hi all

Hit bit of a snagg the engine is very poorly:-(.Thought it was time i took it out for a spin for the first time ,all new ignition and wanted to show the wife what tha her pain and suffering was worth it, got 3 miles from home boiled its head of .Got recoverd to my fathers farm,( a bit more room),took the head of :wow: No 1 piston,the crown is ptited from corrosion ,No 2 burrning a lot of oil, No three got a liner that is above the block and heavy pitting in the head from a foreign object ,old -damage as piston is un-marked.No 4 allso has a liner. so sent head of re enginering:-( passed crack test 8o psi at 70 degres c. told needes new inlet valve seats ,badly pitted and advised to have exausts too do to unleaded fule and a skim,they could not do the valve seats so sent to a bigger firm. they set up head for machining and found that the valve guids were not serviceable (worn) as was the valve stems from rust and so could not garentee the valves unless replaced .Got all the bits needed new and they saw a mark so re-tested the head at 90 psi and 90 degres it failed a 8" crack between the water jacket and oil way :cry::cry: ,

I have tried to find a head no luck:-( ,so if any one knows for one please let me know or even a compleat engine.

yours hopefully gps.

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Thanks to all the kind people that have helped me:-D.I am glad to say things are begining to look up, nearly finished the woodwork I am however a bit confused on the way the wheel arches are constructed as it seams that if you sit on them in the wet, you will get wet to, i can see between the planks to the wheel.:confused: should they be tongue and grooved. and should the tops run the full length of the bed ?

Am saving hard to finish engine luckily plenty of other things to do.

 

Will keep you all posted :-D

Phil

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The wheel arch consists of three separate plates;

• one covering the top and inner side of the wheel arch which is a 90 degrees angled plate

• two smaller plates covering the front and back of the arch. these have a folded edge and are overlapping the angled plate.

 

Rippo's truck differs from mine:

• the two smaller plates on my truck are only rectangular plates and do not have the folded edge at the mudguard location

• the folded edges of the smaller plates are overlapping the angled plate on the outside of the wheel arch or as you wish the inside of the body/truck

• the wood on the iron arch is fixed with wooden slats and screws at the inside of the wheel arch

 

See my picture below (as you can see the wheel arch is up side down on a table

 

wheel arch1.JPG

 

I once have spoken with Maurice Donckers about this and he has told me that there should be no folded edge on the smaller plates at the mudguard location. The mudguard itself will cover the beam and they also have a folded edge which will go under the side plates of the wheel arch.

He also told me that the smaller side plates sometimes were spot welded with the angled plate.

I have also seen the slats on the inside of the arch on Maurice's truck. Maurice, if you read this post, please correct me if I'm wrong! Maybe you can explain to us?

 

John, I wonder how your wheelarch is constructed, having no slats on the inside of the wheel arch?

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Thanks rippo and danny p

Makes more sense now.I also see that the planking go right through to the bottom of the bed planking mine rest on top of the bed

I have mesured the bed and found that it all works to the size of 25lb shell boxes and mourter boxes,as i have some ,is this unique or dose it work with other boxes.

Edited by gps
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Hello Danny,

 

Your right i am missing the wooden slats on mine on the inside of the wheel arch. I need to have a look at maurices to make a drawing of these and then i will put them back on. Are they originals on yours danny?

 

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]83235[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83236[/ATTACH]

 

 

Here's acouple of picture f a truck that was in normandy a few years back he has the wooden slats but no tin lining.

Edited by rippo
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Helllo gps,

 

I'm not sure about the box theory, but it sounds right enough. Your body is a MWR one for sure, the tailboard on your is different to a "standard" mw tailboard, it was missing the foot step holes and the V in the middle wasn't as deep as normal.

 

john

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John,

 

Can't open your attached pictures of the bedford at Normandy. Would like to see them! Could you attach again?

 

Good to know that the wooden slats on the inside of the wheel arch are original. I can't tell if the slats on my truck are original. The body has many original parts but I think it also had a rebuild.

If I remember correctly the slats on maurices truck are the same except for the ones in the corners which are smaller at my truck. The reason why these are smaller is because of the heavy slotted screws which are going through the top and sides of the wheel arch.

I would be happy when maurice would come up with his comments/thoughts about the wheel arch construction accompanied with some pictures of his.

I might even call him to have a look because I live close to him.

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Hi john

yes your right the step on the tail gate is a fold down type.

I see on some that they have a petrol can cradle at the rear just behind the wheel n/s is this normal and what should be in the locker on the opposit side.

so many questions and the more i ask the more i have (sorry) phil

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Hello,

 

The 2 gallon can holder on the passenger side of he body is described in the parts manual as "water can carrier" so not for petrol, i think it maybe for the vickers they were designed to carry in the back? I've been told the v in the tailboard is to allow the barrel of the gun clearance.

The toolbox on the driverside rear corner of the body is described as a tow rope locker in the parts list. In the picture i have of a MW with it tool kit laid out there are a set of trye chains in the kit and two towing chains so i guess this is what the locker is for, but the drivers handook doesn't mention the tow chains or the tyre chans being in the tool kit. A wartime leather tool bag fits in there snugly, but it pretty much fills it. So i'm not exactly sure what goes in there but i'll be putting a toolbag in mine.

 

Phill the fold down step is a mwr feature it lists it in the parts book, so i guess it explains why you haven't got the holes for steps in your tailboard. From what i remember your tailboard all looked pretty original, and i've not seen another like it.

 

100_1640.jpg

 

Right whats the next question?

 

John

Edited by rippo
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Hi John you did ask:-D

My tail gate has a spring plate on o/s side to provide a shock adsorber on droping the gate, should this be also on the n/s as at the moment it hits the drawbar .

ps which side of the chassis does the wiring loom run to the rear.I have a new loom with rear lights and indicators.

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