ruxy

No - they are Clansman TUAAM boxes , the cable box is about 4" x 4" x 2.1/2" high

============================ It all depends on the age of your 109" for front wing antenna Early S3 with Larkspur ATU box Early S3 with cable stowage box (additional surface mount) on front wing for Clansman TUAAM Late S3 with small lid on top of wing with purpose stowage (underside) - later Solihull installed front wings intended for Clansman ---- IIRC 109" FFR early would have Larkspur cables as standard & stowage point on inner wing , Clansman - involves the modifications.

Ernest Lake , 1 ton , screw , multiple-stage ===================================== http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/Ern_Lake_Jacks.htm Scrol down , described incorrectly as 4 Ton , it is a 1 ton. Can be with a two piece handle + metal cranked for winding. Most common MOD supplied is a single piece (as fitted under-bonnet securings on Lightweight) , this had a timber cranking handle , they must have been used as camp fire-wood - you never received one. They are readily available under a Rover No. or ash reproduction on eBay (more expensive). Not listed as far as I am able to establish on Solihull , standard accessories , so Ordnance Depot equipped . MOD must have done direct bulk purchase with Lake (that ISTR. produced in main jacks for ford , factory - Brockhouse Harvey Frost , Bishop Stortford (now the norm - housing estate). Ord. dept. branded the actual military vehicle registration number on the jack - so you knew if yours was nicked LoL

Did you have any experience of problems with the Hopkins genny ? Problems to watch for ? Don't know what availability is now, about 3 years ago there was a flood of them about - seemed quite recent manufacture & low hours. One day I will get around to fueling up to see what the noise level is like !

I recall reading on the Land Rover Series One Club Forum several weeks ago , concerning a apparently Ex-MOD S1 , the owner cleaned off the black paint on the chassis to check the number (after purchase) only to find that the original number had been filled with braze , dressed and then re-branded. Although there is probably better ways of doing this if one was that way inclined. The book by Pat Ware Warehouse publications , 1/4 ton , is generally quite good for information , Contract numbers, Military Vehicle Mark , chassis range , Arm of Service MoS , WD, RAF , RN . The MoS / WD , then ISTR you need to study in more detail. 6/Veh/ 22633 was in fact split 1955 Mk. 3 86" 545 manuf. 1956 Mk. 5 88" 1455 manuf. Tony Hutchins book "The Early Years" may have a bit more info. more pre-pro . FV nomenclature - in print Pat Ware's book IMHO is about as good as it gets.

The problem is fundamental to your requirements , what you needed was "full lusterless" . And yet what you purchased was MATT. So you paid £in the range £22.75 for a 750Mls tin - £ £66.85 for a 5L tin (free of shipping costs). ------------ Local lowest rate for a 1 litre tin of AUTOMOTIVE PAINT would be abt. £18 - £20 + VAT. Now when I have talked to "paint mixers" in the past , I have asked the direct question , what is the maximum MATTING BASE you can use , rule of thumb = 50% because the other 50% is taken up by binders, colour pigment resins . 2nd query, On the scale of MATT - how will this appear brushed or sprayed , Answer = approx. Satin - no flatter.. 3 rd. query - why , answer - shown the MATTING BASE , a whitish/clear but cloudy varnish , OH ! 4 th. query , so If I did not require SATIN to MATT , you obviously would not be adding MATTING BASE , then what would you be using. Reply - shown the clear varnish resin ..

Do you have the brass MoS plate for 83BR48 ? that you can pair up with a branded chassis No. (unfrigged) Or have you run 83BR48 to earth from the actual chassis frame number (unfrigged) ? Other than that , it seems the only positive Ex-MOD hardware that you have is the tub due to the fact of the still in-situ. tie-down point , however that is questionable as tubs get swopped around chassis during a 55 year period. With respect to Rover Mk 5 GS (same with a Rover 6 (S2) ) , arguably much more a civilian "Regular" ie BASIC specification but with just a few military Solihull bolt-ons. similar to a Rover 8 (S2A) , IIRC that would have been built from abt. October 1961 - the Rover 8 having many more specific military features than a 5 or 6 would ever have. In short - I am saying a true definable military Land Rover started S2A. The rest is always going to be supposition it seems to me ,, more so because it seems you have no good documentation like the Ruddington "Release Notes"

A insurance contract is what is known as a "Contract of utmost good faith" , obviously both parties. I don't like to quote Wiki but for simplicity : QUOTE. Thus the insured must reveal the exact nature and potential of the risks that he transfers to the insurer, while at the same time the insurer must make sure that the potential contract fits the needs of, and benefits, the insured.

You may only waste about 6 to 9.5 min of your life LoL Obligatory language warning lest any of the easily offended happen to be passing and understand Swedish.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=spitfire+manual+haynes&tag=googhydr-21&index=stripbooks&hvadid=29169135013&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16438725407068271402&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_35qpoor9c_b Should have spent under 80 qty. 50p free coins ,,

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/11426947/Royal-Mint-criticised-over-inaccurate-Battle-of-Britain-commemoration.html

There are differences , but change point not at S2A / S3 ISTR The rear panels with solid rivets , later S3 had pop-rivets , there were some difference on external roof reinforcement ribs. However IIRC only a early tin-top has the water gutter above the door / cat-flap , IIRC this change was within S2A period.. So - I would guestimate it is S2A.

I am aware you are a Canada resident. Just diplomatically pointing out " possession and 9/10 of the law" , can't see the UK MOD creating another special release note document for Canada for traceability of ownership. You could have a Jeep owner hitching up at Fort Wainwright & driving over the border. If the first private owner was a dealer then he may keep the document to keep himself safe , otherwise it is often handed over at each change in ownership (that being the best series of event) .

You don't state how many hands of private ownership the trailer has passed through - since demob ? I would expect that the original buyer from auction or whatever would receive a copy of the MOD "Relese Notes" along with a receipt for money paid , if the Release Notes have not been passed on - possibly available filed somewhere ? Then it is a ID check of hardware plate against the Release Notes.. There must have been some docs involved. MOD Form 666 (For Local Taxation Officer) (Public highweay registration for benefit of UK UK D.V.L.A. - BUT not for trailers) MINISTRY OF DEFENCE CERTIFICATEOF TRANSFER-EX GOVERNMENT VEHICLE MOD Form 654 APPLICATION FOR DISPOSAL OF A CAST VEHICLE (blue copy) (Part 3 would be stamped by auctioneer or authorised seller , signed & dated)

I purchased on a few years ago for abt. £40 inc. P&P just to get my hands on one to have a look. At the time that it was cheaper than filling a tank with 10 gallons. Tried it out , it did run Ok - so drained it and put it in the box of spares I carry on a long trip , touch wood.

One of the Chinese 36IV problems seems to be that after a while , the float sinks as it absorbs petrol , a good replacement from such as Burlen is abt. £18 so the cheap carb is no longer cheap. It could be a problem they have now resolved ?

Being a FFR your CAV DZS4A dizzy is "all centrifugal advance" , so the carb vacuum point on a 36IV carb is , factory plugged neat with solder , later fit - often you see the vice jaw cross hatch where it is crushed ! Seems to be a Chinese 36IV , be interesting to see how it performs , over the next few months ??

Maximum Contact Current Ratings: 1000 amps for 6 minutes at 24v D.C. Rated Current: 500 amps Voltage Rating: 110V DC. Contact Resistance: 0.5 milliohms max. Temperature Rating: -55°C to +100°C. http://www.aerco.co.uk/store/category/connectors%20-%20circular/connectors,%20circular,%20ab/~/dbfile.axd?name=SBORD_Catalogue.pdf ------------- Jump cables are just as heavy on a winterized Lightweight as for a tank LoL

Rover Part No. (assy.) 246109 , pre D-B NATO pintle http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=771333&SPRACHE=EN

Agreed , I would put my ££ on a "anti-tamper" locked fixing for a ships bridge compass binacle ,, or dunno

Assuming somebody had their "Export Control Documentation" in place , then does this count as a Import - meaning more paperwork LoL

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2930572/Now-s-avoid-dents-scrapes-motor-salvaged-capsized-transporter-ship-make-sure-s-tank.html

Constant adjustment , something is wrong there , not somethingie I have found problematical over the long distance. Same switch lasted with me over 20 years & over 120,000 miles , just a light check ever prior to MOT - then it just packed in, received wrong switch , obtained the pukka one & no problems - BUT I did investigate that spring & its purpose. Remove the four screws and remove to top-plate & examine , there is a good reason for that top spring and ISTR it is associated with prevention of switch damage ..

Lot to be said for a brake light pressure switch, I changed mine easy on S2A 1961 109" - did not need to bleed as no air entered. Defender did it off the pedal-box in a different way. There is this switch :- http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/15/13H3735L-BRAKE-STOP-LIGHT-SWITCH.html?search=13H3735L&page=1 Listed as Series too. I have one (ordered in error) , the threads are bigger on dia. than the brass type switch. Don't think I ever determined where intended on a Series , possibly it went through a S/S number change & I was unable to follow track. Not same No. as a similar brass switch on a S2A dual brake pedal box (Optional Equipment). Possibly the leaf spring set up is to bleed a little through so as to dim illuminate when tickling the pedal & avoid all or zilch.

Use genuine (expensive) switch. Check the little leaf spring under the top mtg. plate is free in plastic bushes / split pin thingies. There is different bits for single or dual line , yours should still be dual , but a PO could have messed about. Don't bottom out the switch otherwise you will bust it. Y2K since I was last here - they can be reliable, forget now reason for the leaf spring , ISTR I worked it out it was to prevent bottoming out of the switch , as stated - set up break point a thread turn at a time , to save damage.