ruxy

First , possibly it would be best if you posted a photograph of the Master cylinder , with the S3 Lightweight - depending on age there are two types of Girling MC depending on vehicle age. There are pattern MC around - I would not use one. You say you are not getting a loss of fluid - from front & rear compartments of the MC ? It is possibly to get fluid loss from the MC , a bad case you would get it running down the pedal box - look for dampness. The Girling Supervac (genuine) at the mounting flange , there is a small drain groove , feel underneath with tissue - check for fluid loss under bolting flanges. Where the MS sockets into the booster can get corroded , so rust can choke up this drain-way - the only check is to remove and examine. You can get seal recon kits , depends if the MC is worth salvage. Basically there are early & late vacuum check , manual or the later auto on ignition start , often these don't work. Doing the standard pedal check , vacumm exhaust - pedal should drop abt. 1" and then be rock solid. ------ Look at the pressing between , pocket for the MC mounting spigot - you will see a very small vee groove impinge (above vacuum switch) - this is the fluid drain if seals are worn.

The common conversion kit was by :- Zeus Engineering March Barton , Exeter. However they went bonk.

Not a tank but interesting photographs http://englishrussia.com/2014/08/20/wartime-truck-emergence/

Think Austin Loadstar , as in Jensen LoL

You should have a nomenclature plate like this , or just 4 holes on bulkhead to right of steering tube. Probably same contract, find chassis No. branded on dumb-iron , thicker plate front spring bolt goes through. From this , the Vehicle No. in form of ??ES?? can be found on "B" vehicle card. Museum of Army Transport . Deepcut Barracks But they charge abt. £30

btw , the bonnet is wrong , it is a De-luxe type , you should have a razor edge. The rear No. plate would have been at the other side (in fact it is a shielded type also used for convoy lamp) The present Reg plate (rear) is covering where the Warner socket would be , the screw on cover is quite heavy so is on chain & retained on the retainer (that is a casting & mounted on a packer plate , or is it two LoL

It is a Series 2a 88" Rover 10 (early - deep sill , headlamps in radiator panel) , manuf. abt 1967 to 1979 , it would have been 12 volt because hardly any 24 volt were made. A Rover 10 (late , very , very ,very rare - shallow sill & headlamps in wing front panels) Not a S2 Rover MK6 or S2a Rover MK8 , the only alternatives. This is because clearly it is a single wiper motor model with Rover 10 demister. The steering wheel is black plastic on cellulose (3 spoke) not the earlier wire spoke..

Badge engineered Prestolite , a Leece-Neville agent will ID

Update on Industrial situation , DIY'ers should also wise up. Unfortunately , I don't believe there are film badge dosimeter for Silica.. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-tayside-central-28427730

http://www.easybranches.eu/european-news/1688281.html http://ftr.wot-news.com/2014/07/22/rare-sherman-lifted-from-barents-sea/

http://englishrussia.com/2014/07/20/tank-lifted-from-the-bottom-of-the-barents-sea/

Wasting time of lots of people , probably their own too ?? I wonder what % of their mail-shots they actually click on, and rip somebody off ?

================== You must be thinking about me , must have about 20 qty. of the expensive Grandsfors Bruk , Hultafors, Wetterlings , Husqvarna & the odd Cold Steel - Trail Boss ,before I add up the cheaper German Muller , before getting to Wilkinson Sword LoL

One shell is clearly sliced lengthways down the middle - training aid ??

UPDATE , just a hobby , thats OK then http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2694733/Police-uncover-armoury-firearms-weapons-including-5ft-long-MISSILE-pensioners-home.html

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2694733/Police-uncover-armoury-firearms-weapons-including-5ft-long-MISSILE-pensioners-home.html

LoL DIY death in one thousand years !

And Finally , IMHO If you spend your 14 days summer holiday , inside or preferably in the open-air of your garden , 8 hours per day DIY sand-blasting with B&Q kiln dried patio slab gap-filler ,, The FINAL choice is all yours LoL http://www.gulflink.osd.mil/particulate_final/particulate_final_s06.htm

http://www.gulflink.osd.mil/pm/pm_refs/n38en042/120396_sep96_decls12_0001.html

The most basic LEV test for a cabinet door dust seal to workplace would be to use the so called "Tyndall Lamp" . Regarding silica sand , protection for employees in workplace - does your garage / shed come under such as Machinery & COSHH Regulations. So , if you are crossing a middle-east desert and get caught in a sand storm , same dangerous sand , in fact the finer ends often cover your car in the UK LoL Then you would just use your "shemagh" - I don't think the arabs are walking around with a Sundström protective mask , so where are all the statistics quoted for respiratory silicosis deaths due to the force of nature ?? All those cheapo blasting cabinets & pressure vessels dumped by the container load , will have caused far,far more industrial Silicosis deaths in China.

That sounds like what is normally called - the Anvil.

From abt. early 1970's (IIRC 1971) until the start of NATO IRR (approx. 1978 IIRC , was the first time I came across it) , then the paint was :-

Not just a matter of oil pressures & temperature (oil + ambient). The quality of oil , probably the MOD were a bit late on changing supply contracts LoL Until the end of the 1970's LR were still advising 20W/50 (a engine / transaxle lubricant compromise) for down to -10C Abt. 1980 / 1980 LR revised their recommendations due to oil improvements & A.P.I. service ratings. The good OLD 20W/50 was only then good for down to 0 degree C . Down to -20C (where you need to aim for England / Scottish winters) was down as far as a 10W , but in reality most would be going to a 15W/40. The 2.1/4 Archillees heel being the valve rocker surface , with a £rap oil , "some" believed the only protection here was still a 20W/50 (probably they should have used a top brand 15W/40) . However by the start of 1980's Solihull had the so called "fully metricated" and had started on the 5mb Falcon project - where piston sets were no longer "selective assembly". There were changes to pistons & ring sets + bores & finishing , This tightening up for the newer thinner oils , happended on both the old plant & new engine plant engines. In fact - there was the odd difference on the military spec. 5mb block , IIRC they were sleeved where as such a civvy pre-fix 361 5mb was not

OK for extreme stationary running (long periods) , otherwise overcooling in most cases. Stationary ,water is top end cooling / oil is bottom end cooling.