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Everything posted by andym

  1. The civilian versions of that engine had temperature gauges so it shouldn't be too difficult other than the 12V/24V issue? Andy
  2. An FFR or TCB RB44 does indeed have two alternators, one 12V for the vehicle and another, 24V for the radio batteries. The two systems are completely separate. Andy
  3. No, I work in Portsmouth. I'm also one of the moderators of the FV430 Forum referred to above. Andy
  4. No real complaints from me although I agree about the lack of stands with anything other than Jeep and LR spares. I discovered an FV430 variant I hadn't seen before (Cervantes) and met up with several friends. (Clive - my apologies for not returning to you but I got sidetracked replacing a friend's fuel pump, you know how it is!) Andy
  5. Do you mean the saddlebags? Andy
  6. Agreed - the ammunition in the turret makes a lot of difference! Andy
  7. No swim board, though! Andy
  8. It, the Stolly and the 432 have just moved to their new barn so hopefully I'll be back to working on them again. Andy
  9. My clutch plates were fine despite the vehicle being left outside under a tarpaulin for over a year, but I've been told that a suitable lever through the bellhousing inspection access works wonders if needed. Andy
  10. Plenty of traffic heading down to Overlord this weekend! Andy
  11. It wouldn't be the first time an ISPL has been out of sync with the vehicles! Andy
  12. That would be my suggestion too, my Abbot had the VRM written under one of the seat pads in the turret. Otherwise, unlike the 432, there is no chassis or hull number on the vehicle itself. Andy
  13. That's what I found in the ISPL, but the filter doesn't look like that. There's a completely different drawing in the repairs manual. Andy
  14. Can anyone tell me what washer is fitted to the oil scavenge filter covers on a Meteor 4B in a Centurion? One engine we looked at had flat copper washers, another had paper. The drawing in the manual looks like some sort of spiral affair but annoyingly it doesn't seem to appear in the parts list. Andy
  15. It's also covered in Chapter 4 of Infantry Pamphlet No. 41 Part 4 if you can find a copy.
  16. That's (hopefully) good news! Andy
  17. My Stolly has Britax inertia reel seatbelts, which I've replaced with new, but how common are they? I've seen plenty without. Andy
  18. As I understand it, a major issue is exposure to sunlight, which bakes the plasticiser out of the tyres and causes them to become less flexible. Andy
  19. It will be interesting to see if this will apply to all HGVs, including historic vehicles? https://www.gov.uk/government/news/government-to-consult-on-ban-on-10-year-old-tyres-to-boost-road-safety Andy
  20. For me it would depend on what you want to do with it. An exhibition piece might look better replated. Andy
  21. This thing is truly a work of art. It deserves to be sat in a museum somewhere with perspex replacements for the end covers, being slowly turned so that people can observe the genius behind the design! Andy
  22. Take a good look round the vehicle and see how unmolested it is. Are all the bits present in the engine bay such as the Firewire frame in front of the radiator? How much of the turret contents are present? They are awkward to find if you want to do a full restoration. As with all K60 vehicles, the heat exchanger is the weak point. Look for water in the gearbox oil or oil in the radiator. They are unique to the Abbot, impossible to get hold of as spares and very difficult to repair, not helped by the fact that the entire pack seems to be built round them. Check for overheating, the fans and their hydraulic system are also unique to the Abbot. Other than that, check the battery charging voltage as dead regulator boxes aren't uncommon. Some Abbots suffered from hull cracking but as it's under the pack you won't be able to see it. Oh, and take it for a decent drive to check gears and brakes! Andy
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