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Beckers matte green


rapier rob

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Hi Rob

 

are you after the normal NATO green

(my 1979 109 is painted green / black)

the green i got from one of our MVT Group was as follows

 

 

273/2372 NATO GreenMatt IRR

 

(matt IRR finish to def stan 80-41/2- spraying.

provides a heat and petrol resistant finish with good outdoor stability. Conforms to the specific near IRR requirements for NATO Green to def stan 00-23. the equivalent brushing quality is supplied under ref. 273/2371

 

I contacted Becker about the best way to apply and they told meas the tin was past its best by date it would be best to brush it

 

I am not sure but Anchor Supplys might hav some

 

(at least it might be easier with a referance No)

 

Hope this helps

 

 

Ian[/img]

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Anchor Supplies paint is rubbish, it's made by JW Land Rovers and doesn't give a good finish. It scratches easily and if not given about a week of constant sunshine and no rain it seems to wash off! Also the black is more slate grey. Did the Spartan with it, wish we hadn't. It will get repainted eventually with some decent paint.

 

Cromadex make good paint and supply to most of the dealers such as A+S. I have been told these people make good Nato green but not tried it yet: Crosbie Coatings Ltd (01902) 352020

 

The IRR stuff goes grey and fades quickly if left outside and is supposed to be repainted regularly when in service. I wouldn't use it if I were you.

 

Chris

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Hello,

We got a really good "NATO Green" paint from our local Auto Paint Supplier.

Our ZIL was painted with it when we got it and after 18 months of living outside it still looks good.

I sprayed our trailer with it and found it sticks like @#*t to a blanket! It covers very well and drys quickly to a really good finish. (Or that could just be because I'm a brilliant paint sprayer! 8) )

 

I'll find the make and paint code and post the details

 

Regards

Richard

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Hello,

I couldn't find a make on the tin. All the details imply that it was made KETT Auto-Paints, the local firm we get it from. The paint code is 285 which I'm sure I've seen mentioned on here before.

It's not cheap, about twice the price of normal MV dealers paint but it is consistent in it's colour and finish unlike some Nato Green paints we've brought which are a different shade of green in each tin!

It matches the green on the FH70 (still in it's military clothes) exactly, both in colour and finish.

 

Regards

Richard

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I get all my paints from RR services but War Paint and Jeffery Engineering use the same supplier, they can get most colours you need, the quality is good also, and postage costs are reasonable.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Tyler.

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Hi again rob

 

 

when i did the Landy i did it bit by bit,

as i have nowhere under cover i literaly did one side Nato Green then another day i did the other side.

when it came to the black i used BLACKBOARD PAINT after i had done this i found out from a work mate that at one point there was no "Army" black available and they used any black they could get their hands on

the other good thing about 1980 (time set for paint and markings on 109)at this time most vehicles were brush painted (supplied in NATO GREEN and black added by units (6/7 Queens(V) who i was with we only had NATO GREEN until 1983(ish))

 

 

Ian

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The panel came new with a coat of black paint on, so I gave it a rub with meths to get any grease off, and sprayed a coat of etching primer on.

Left it for 6 hours and then used a mini roller to apply a coat of paint.

No thinners, straight from the tin.

Left it a day, and then applied a second coat.

And thats when the surface crazed......

I'll be stripping the paint off at the weekend and trying again.

This time just doing one coat.

 

Looking forward to eventually getting a workshop/garage so I can SPRAY stuff! :D

 

You people with lots of space don't know how lucky you are :shock:

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Left it a day, and then applied a second coat.

And thats when the surface crazed......

I'll be stripping the paint off at the weekend and trying again.

 

Rob,

 

OK, I reckon the first coat had not cured. The temp at this time of year is not good for painting unless you had it in a really warm building. Also the first coat may have been heavy (?) and although appeared dry on the skin it was still soft underneath. Personally I would leave it for about 3 days before recoating and then only after it had been in a reasonably warm atmosphere.

 

Richard

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