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The Fort Paull Military Defence Camp Cooker Pressure Pot or the No1 Cooker


Surveyor
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Went to collect the cooker today and as agreed some pictures of it, I think it was left outside since the catalogue was published, given help to get it to the car and not yet had a good look at it.

The carrying handles need to be freed obviously the rust cleaned up, the pump handle seems slightly out of line with the pump.

Looking for my copy of the manual to see how far to strip it down to get sand blasted.

I note the HYDRA label doesn't look as though it was ever fitted.

I think the original colour was deep bronze green but stand to be corrected.

Want to get my other cookers sorted first before I look at this one.

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Edited by Surveyor
Grammer
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Got home and started to look at it, would ask for advice, need a metal worker hopefully in Yorkshire to fix handles as they are rusted solid, also need to try and separate the handle plate from the body. The good news is there are a set of parts still in a plastic bag. 

The instructions are in the lid and parts which in the manual show parts are one piece. 

There are parts in the kit needing cleaned, just working bit by bit. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Started on the fettle, its going to be a slow one as other work and work takes priority.

One handle broke of as lifted up other seized, looking in the lid I appear to have an original set of spares in a plastic bag, first job will be sort the handles, and now found original un bleached paint heading to find a match beginning of November.

Looking in the lid the label has instructions, have a copy of the operating ones which is about half way down, cant really make out the first half, they don't appear to agree with any in the manual.

Does any one have a clear picture, I can work out fonts etc to reproduce once got the thing cleaned.

Thanks in advance.

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  • 4 weeks later...
8 hours ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

They look like 3/16" flat head. I think I may have some in the shed, will have a look tonight for you. How many do you need?

Many thanks I think about 6 for the handles, any spare would be appreciated

I can try and get a inches tape on tomorrow to verify if that would help

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
As the weather is fine but cool decided to see what needs done, all valves and hinge for the pump need eased.
Tried to get pressure in the tank bur the adaptor does not stay on the tank, the tank section has a thread, the part that fits to it seems to have a part to tighten but nothing seems to hold it in place.
 
Any suggestions.

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  • 1 month later...

I have stripped down the cover ready for for fixing the handle and sand blasting, I have decided only to do the base frame and cover, the tank and the pump have minor rust on them so think will leave as is.

A couple of the chains have broken, been to the hardware store they have some chain slightly smaller but trying to source more accurate chain.

Reading on line I understand that its the internal measurements needed, its 18mm long 10mm wide and about 3 mm diameter.

Does any one have a source please

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  • 2 weeks later...

Next phase, took a good look before going further, the pump needs new washers etc. decided the cover and base are the only things I will get clean and repainted, the remainder looks in good condition.

Loosened the nut on the bas and looks like a load of sludge inside, stopped and put back in place to have a think about how to clean out the tank.

Took the metal instruction plate off was fixed with copper rivets.

Going to have another look at the instruction book tonight with a view to getting off base plate and list which valve is which

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55 minutes ago, wally dugan said:

l have been following this from the start those cookers came from 150 RLC TA HULL and where in the museum with a lot more

Many thanks, there was only one in the catalogue, got it for a good price but glad to save it, its one of those jobs, a bit at a time. Going to look at the YouTube video to get the base loose, also looking at best way to clean the tank, any suggestions are always appreciated 

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These cookers were the primary means of cooking in the field during my time in the army.  On frequent occasions we had to transport them by air, using that well known  airline Crab Air (RAF to be polite).  They were not keen on transporting anything that smelt of petrol (vehicles excepted), but our cookers were so old that nothing would get rid of the smell.  Solution?  Any aerosol that had a stronger smell than petrol, to be utilised as late as possible before the loadie sniffed.  But actually cleaning the tank?  No idea.

Chris

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13 hours ago, chrisgrove said:

These cookers were the primary means of cooking in the field during my time in the army.  On frequent occasions we had to transport them by air, using that well known  airline Crab Air (RAF to be polite).  They were not keen on transporting anything that smelt of petrol (vehicles excepted), but our cookers were so old that nothing would get rid of the smell.  Solution?  Any aerosol that had a stronger smell than petrol, to be utilised as late as possible before the loadie sniffed.  But actually cleaning the tank?  No idea.

Chris

Chris

Thanks for the information, its always great getting these kinds of anecdotes on any subject

Richard

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  • 2 weeks later...

The cover is away to get the handles fixed.
I have dismantled to get fixed, the burners are brushed with a wire brush and now painted.
It was interesting these were black gloss and the rest was matt either black or green.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Decided to clean the tank inside, opened the drain valve and saw what i thought was sludge, turns out it may be rust, tried a gentle prod with a stick not shifting, going to have a gentle tap with a hammer, then but some BB pellets inside to rattle around to see what else will be shifted.

 

 

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Edited by Surveyor
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Cleaning rusty  tanks can be a real issue .. The risk is the tank has been perforated by rust a common issue with motorbike petrol tanks ..the most aggressive cleaning method ..and kill or cure is to send them for an acid bath .

This will remove all the rust but might create/reveal  pinholes in the tank ...to clean the interior count in 10/20 ball bearings add water seal rotate and clean ..you might do this 10/20 times before you stop getting scale ..it's worth keeping what do we out to give an indication of the rust damage .I would then let it dry and use kurust to stabilise the interior ..again repeat the process 3/4 times ...wait a week and repeat the kurust application again.

Then flush it with a hose pipe .let it dry .and flush it with old fuel ..the fuel will turn black and again repeat ..(.garages often have petrol from people that have mis fuelled so you can often get this for free.)....

Good luck

Jenkinov

 

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Thanks for the heads up, I think I will get the endoscope out before I start and see what it looks like, before I start, I may only need to clean the base where the drain plug is, says he hopefully

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