Diana and Jackie Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 (edited) T List of parts 8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?) 47 Tab Washer 46 Washer 45 O ring 44 O ring 43 Output Drive Coupling 42 Oil Seal 40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 39 Bearing 38 Bearing Inner Spacee 37 Bearing Outer Spacer 36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer 35 Spacer 34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring 33 Steering Disc Hub 32 Oil seal 22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 23 Bearing 24 Spacer 25 Spacer 26 Roller Bearing 27 Roller Bearing outer track retainer 13 Steering hub drive Part 2 Replacing the inner seal. Having completed part 1 http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/40807-cvrt-gearbox-oil-seal-replacement-part-1/ The next stage is to replace the inner seal. Access to the inner seal can only be obtained by removing slotted lock ring item 34. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO ACCESS THE SEAL AND ANY BEARINGS BEHIND IT, it is essential that the lock ring is not damaged, it is also unlikely the lock ring can be removed by any form of bodging such as using a drift, screwdriver or chisel and any attempt using other methods. anything apart from the correct tool is likely to cause damage, rendering the removal of the locking ring next to impossible – you have been warned! To access the lock ring having removed the seal holder/bearing retainer, knock back in using a soft drift the drive shaft coupling. Once again pull out the drive shaft coupling and with luck the bearing item 39 will come out with it, if it does the bearing has to be pulled off the coupling for later reinsertion into the hub. If the bearing does not come out with the coupling it will have to be removed using a bearing insert extractor. The bearing is readily available and reasonably cheap. With the bearing removed spacers items 38,37,36 and 35 can be removed, a magnet is useful to remove item 35. With all the spacers removed the slotted lock ring should be removed, the only way, in my experience to remove this is using a castle socket impact wrench made specifically for the job and a 1500Nm air impact wrench, even a 1 meter breaker bar may not remove the lock ring. To prevent the hub turning fit 2 or 3 G clamps to the steering disc which will contact the still attached steering brake caliper whilst the lock ring is removed. With The lock ring slacked off upend the box as best it can be and remove the lock ring, once removed, remove the G clamps and the steering brake caliper. The hub is heavy ! There is no need to remove the steering brake disc. Using a 3 leg puller pull off the steering disc hub. Lift the hub clear, Item 24 will now have dropped making reinstallation of the hub difficult unless the hub and housing are on a flat surface The oil seal is now accessible and can be removed. Examine the seal surface on the hub for a groove using a finger nail, a shiny ring on the seal surface is acceptable. If there is a groove a speedy sleeve will have to be fitted. The replacement seal can now be fitted into item 22 or can be fitted later after item 22 is removed from the main gearbox, (see later) Item 22 has to be removed to reinsert the steering disc hub, Remove the bolts, item 31 on the periphery of item 22 as well as the socket head bolts item 29. Item 22 can now be pulled off the gearbox by screwing into the two threaded 7/16” Unf bolts on the edge of item 22 Fitting the seal If a rubber edged seal as previously described is used then insertion into item 22 is not too difficult. Place the seal into the housing and gently push, using hand pressure on the edge making sure the seal is fitting squarely into the housing. With a soft faced hammer or mallet gently tap the seal working slowly all the way around the seal, gradually the seal will move into the housing, when it is flush place the old seal, face on face to the new seal, and again tap gently using the old seal to push the new seal home. The new seal should not protrude past the housing face, and should sit slightly inside the housing when correctly fitted. The old seal I removed can clearly be seen in a photo below protruding outside the housing where it had been rubbing on the hub and incorrectly fitted. Fitting the hub into housing item 22 Grease the seal and the surface on which the seal faces on the hub. Place the hub into housing 22, centre spacer 24, the hub now needs to be pulled back into item 22 and it’s two bearings using a suitable bolt and two face plates. A suitable kit is “23pc Front Wheel Drive Bearing Puller Removal Installation Tool Kit Set” from eBay or Machine Mart, together with a suitable locally produced flat plate with a hole. Once the hub is back into housing item 22, the housing can be reattached to the gearbox, use blue Hylomar to seal the joint before reattaching item 22. Replace the slotted lock ring, tightening it back to where it came off such that it can be locked in place with locking washer item 36 after the spacer 35 is fitted. Refit spacers 37 and 38, refit bearing 39 hammering it in squarely on its outer race. Proceed to fit the bearing retainer/seal housing as per part one and continue assembly as per part 1 http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/40807-cvrt-gearbox-oil-seal-replacement-part-1/ Item 35 spacer can clearly be seen, behind that is the difficult to remove lock ring Steering disc hub removed, old oil seal clearly visible The incorrect fitting of the old seal can be clearly seen. New correctly fitted double lip seal Preparing to pull the steering hub into it's housing -Notice the rust marks on the sealing flange ! The silicon sealant used previously had not been correctly applied. - use Blue Hylomar! The steering brake hub being pulled back into it's housing with a super large bolt and a piece of scrap aluminium. The 7/16" UNF bolt is still in place used to split item 22 from the gearbox. Edited October 4, 2019 by Diana and Jackie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 10 hours ago, Diana and Jackie said: With all the spacers removed the slotted lock ring should be removed, the only way, in my experience to remove this is using a castle socket impact wrench made specifically for the job and a 1500Nm air impact wrench, even a 1 meter breaker bar may not remove the lock ring. Hi Diana, The person who tighten that lock ring up must have been a Neanderthal ! The correct tool for removing the ring only had a tommy bar hole and I never had any problems, see photo of tool here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Again, thank you for posting this, I know I will be using it in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) Hi Richard, I had a 1 metre 3/4" breaker bar standing on it and the lock ring would not move, even with a 1500Nm impact wrench it took 5 minutes to get the lock ring (on both sides) to move, I suspect depending on who overhauled the gearbox,( this was Belgian) you may or may not get a problem. You can also notice bodge marks on the large lock ring - not caused by me, clearly they had tried to get it off by bodging. You may notice that not even the oil seals were properly fitted, a bearing dust cap was fitted on both sides, one had come loose, had a steel backing and damaged the seal surface of the output coupling shaft, the output coupling shaft lock ring was loose as well which was causing the major oil leak and started off the whole repair. Incidentally the outer seals were nitrile - with finger springs - really old seals, and the inner seals were Viton, none of which makes the least bit sense! In all a right bodge, so I suggest anyone taking this job on needs to hope for the best and be prepared for the worst. Diana Edited October 1, 2019 by Diana and Jackie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Hi Diana, Those seals with finger springs sound odd, never saw those on CVR(T) gearboxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 The clutch seal fitted to the box was Viton, the seal inside the clutch was nitrile with finger spring! - yet more lazy bodging 🙂 the outer track of the clutch roller bearing was rotating in it's housing too - in all a nightmare job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 On 10/1/2019 at 10:13 AM, Richard Farrant said: Hi Diana, Those seals with finger springs sound odd, never saw those on CVR(T) gearboxes. Hi Richard, Made by a company called Garlock - still in existence. Not a big fan of steel lipped seals nor finger springs. Diana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 I bought this spanner some time ago: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted October 8, 2019 Author Share Posted October 8, 2019 Hi Chris, That slotted nut spanner is for the final drive nut. Diana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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