24v Series 3 FFR Landy Brake switch issues...

[minn200]

OK then at the risk of looking as stupid as usual I need to ask this question...

I have replaced the brake relay in my 24v FFR and it made a bit of difference to the brake lights coming on when they were supposed to but they soon stopped working again only coming on intermittently. I then changed the brake switch for the third time and now they are working just fine not sticking on and coming on with every press of the pedal.

Three switches in a month seems a bit much seeing as the landy has only done five miles in this time so I tested the voltage and it sits at 23.8v going to the switch itself. I know it is a 24v motor but should that much voltage be going to the switch itself? I have been told there are no 24v brake switches and the 12v should be just fine soooo is this right? Is the voltage ok and I have checked the brake system wiring form front to back and all seems well so if this is wrong voltage wise someone please help me before I go mad!!!

[johnhughes]

The brake switch on the servo needs to be adjusted very carefully to get it to consistently work, once this is done they normally last about 5 years. The voltage will vary between 24 and 28v and is OK. The worst thing for them is not using the vehicle as the switch plunger sticks through lack of use and cannot be fixed

 

 

J

[ruxy]

Use genuine (expensive) switch.

 

Check the little leaf spring under the top mtg. plate is free in plastic bushes / split pin thingies.

 

There is different bits for single or dual line , yours should still be dual , but a PO could have messed about.

 

Don't bottom out the switch otherwise you will bust it.

 

Y2K since I was last here - they can be reliable, forget now reason for the leaf spring , ISTR I worked it out it was to prevent bottoming out of the switch , as stated - set up break point a thread turn at a time , to save damage.

[mike65]

All new Land Rover brake light switches are a PITA.

They cannot make things like they used to, you need a very sensitive switch and the patience of a saint to adjusted and readjusted avery trip.

The prblem is the switch is mounted almost on the pivot fulcrum of the brake pedal.

I adjusted mine 3 times going to Duxford last year.

Before I left, before going down the runway, before going home, each time it stopped working very quickly.

It was an expensive switch not a Britpart one, that might actually have worked:undecided:

 

I have now made a slight modification that works every time regardless of how long it is left and was really easy to adjust.

This was done following a chat with the MOT tester, who spent a while getting it working for the MOT. He said it was a common fault these days and there was one good way of fixing it which he has seen on a few occassions.

 

So my break light switch is now located here

All you need is a switch that is ON in the out position and a home nade bracket.

 

Mike

[LarryH57]

How strange to see your brake light switch fitted to the brake pedal on your 24v Series LR. My 12v Lwt has this switch under the bonnet behind the brake servo. I thought all Series 3s were the same in this respect!

[mike65]

How strange to see your brake light switch fitted to the brake pedal on your 24v Series LR. My 12v Lwt has this switch under the bonnet behind the brake servo. I thought all Series 3s were the same in this respect!

 

Yes they are normally mounted under the bonnet by the servo, mine has a very nice shiney expensive replacement one there but it refuses to work correctly or for more than 5 minutes.

So I obtained and mounted one inside where it can be adjusted easily and works no problem.

Oh yes and it was a much cheaper switch.

 

Mike

[ruxy]

Lot to be said for a brake light pressure switch, I changed mine easy on S2A 1961 109" - did not need to bleed as no air entered.

 

Defender did it off the pedal-box in a different way.

 

There is this switch :-

 

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/15/13H3735L-BRAKE-STOP-LIGHT-SWITCH.html?search=13H3735L&page=1

 

Listed as Series too. I have one (ordered in error) , the threads are bigger on dia. than the brass type switch. Don't think I ever determined where intended on a Series , possibly it went through a S/S number change & I was unable to follow track.

 

Not same No. as a similar brass switch on a S2A dual brake pedal box (Optional Equipment).

 

Possibly the leaf spring set up is to bleed a little through so as to dim illuminate when tickling the pedal & avoid all or zilch.

[minn200]

Folks as per usual you are a mine of information and thank you!

 

Mike I have a couple of friends that have done a similar conversion and if mine keeps playing up I may go that way. I have got this latest one to work but have ordered an expensive genuine one to keep on board as spare "just in case"

 

Constant adjustment seems about right lol and at least I am not alone with the issue

 

Thanks again folks

[ruxy]

Constant adjustment , something is wrong there , not somethingie I have found problematical over the long distance. Same switch lasted with me over 20 years & over 120,000 miles , just a light check ever prior to MOT - then it just packed in, received wrong switch , obtained the pukka one & no problems - BUT I did investigate that spring & its purpose.

 

Remove the four screws and remove to top-plate & examine , there is a good reason for that top spring and ISTR it is associated with prevention of switch damage ..

[LarryH57]

I agree with Fulltilt - my brake light switch, once replaced and adjusted correctly, has lasted for years. Perhaps there was an intermittent fault with the old switch behind the servo and whenever you adjusted it you temporarily fixed the fault till you went over a pot hole and gave it a jolt.

[mogman]

On the 90s and 110s the covering on the loom gets worn away by the loom moving about inside the chassis rails and eventually uncovers a wire. The switch is then subject to the occasional short circuit and inevitably stops working. A fairly common problem on coil sprung, don't know about Series.

 

Cheers,

 

Barry