question Exhaust manifold to downpipe studs seized and corroded

[Rover8FFR]

Yes mine's been getting shorter over the years, but 2 ft is a lot to lose :red:

 

 

I have seen flexible used but it doesn't look very nice.

 

Perhaps get some thick stout wire/cable so that you can simulate the shape & distance of the required pipe. Measure the ID of silencer outlet then with callipers look for pipe that has that OD. Try looking through Rover bits first & maybe when you get any visitors ask to look at their tail pipes & see if there are any that might be cut down. So you can go to an exhaust place armed with a make, model & year.

 

Then tell us all please.

 

now there is a challenge :-( !

[Rover8FFR]

Appears to be two part numbers too.

 

LV9/BOE/FV174998 or LV9/BOE/FV228518.

 

Is there a reason for this Clive?

[tankdriver]

Stud extractors would be a last resort for me... They are hardened and if they snap they are a pig to drill out... It's doable but what a pain !

 

As as for drilling then tapping and inserting bolts etc ? Don't bother..... If that's the road you need to go down then helicoil the thing. I have had to helicoil a number of head stud holes on engine blocks over the years, if done properly they are an excellent fix.

 

Richards method of the nut is preferable route too.... You find that the heat from the welding often cracks the stud free too.

 

good luck !

 

Helicoils will pull out. That was why we quit using them. Here is a photo of tap insets, already has Loctite on it.. We realized that that we could make our own using bolts a lot cheaper, and do the same thing.

 

 

A bolt can be any length you want, and I have never had ne pull out.

Edited December 13, 2014 by tankdriver

[fv1609]

Appears to be two part numbers too.

 

LV9/BOE/FV174998 or LV9/BOE/FV228518.

 

Is there a reason for this Clive?

 

LV9/BOE/FV174998 - non-armoured

 

LV9/BOE/FV228518 - armoured, to be more specific Pig & prototype Hornet, production Hornet had front exit exhaust

[Rover8FFR]

If the stud has not broken off flush, get a nut that will slide over and weld it to the stud, this will in turn heat the stud up expanding it in the hole, flood it with easing fluid as it cools, but use a spanner and gently move it backwards and forwards a fraction at a time and you will find it will work free. Better than having to drill and tap.

 

Great suggestion by Richard..... welded the nuts on the two longer studs and came out a treat!!

Last one had snapped off close to manifold so not much to weld too, but gave it a go....... Just kept shearing with a bit of the stud on the welded nut.

Its now so short that I cannot get anything on it......Always one difficult one and always the last one.

Will have to drill and hopefully use a stud extractor bit. Letting it soak in Deox-C solution first so that it may penetrate the rust around the threads as a helper / easer!

[ruggyjohn]

richard is spot on with the welded nut routine, but you should first weld a washer to the stud then weld your nut to the washer by filling the nut with weld but you can also put small welds on the out side of the nut to the washer, never failed to remove studs but sometimes it can take up to 5 trys if the nut keeps snapping off, little bit of movement at a time works best and to let it cool enough for you to touch it also before trying to undo, it lets the stud shrink after being heated by the weld.