mick garner Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Hello all, Thought I'd put a few questions to the collective knowledge of HMVF as we've been having some problems with our Spartan since replacing the tracks. The tracks we put on were not new but had far less wear than the ones taken off. With the old tracks the vehicle drove fine, no horrible knocks or bangs etc. Since having the 'new' track on the vehicle makes horrible bangs and jolts that physically shake the vehicle, particularly when taken over 30mph. The transmission feels as if it is under stress, and generally the vehicle doesn't feel safe to be driving along the road in! So far I have checked the usual, I have laid the track out on the ground and any suspect links that weren't sitting 'flat' were replaced. It has 83 track links per side, the idler arms etc. aren't bent, the idler hub bearings are okay, the alignment of all roadwheels/idlers/sprockets is fine, so surely all should be well? Regards, Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 So far I have checked the usual, I have laid the track out on the ground and any suspect links that weren't sitting 'flat' were replaced. Hi Mick, The above part of your message raises suspicions to me. You say if the links were not laying flat you replaced them. There should be a small rise on each link when at rest. The rubber bushing for the hex track pin is so arranged as to have a wrapping action as the track goes around the sprocket or rear idler. Maybe this "new" track was removed because the bushes are shot? regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick garner Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 I see what you're saying there Richard, however it's evident that the 'new' track has better bushings than previously, I only say 'flat' as I suspect in a rush to put them on we may have got the pin one flat out in the hex, causing a 'bump' if that makes sense. I think our next course of action will be to measure lengths of ten links and try to swap them around to get exactly the same length either side. Bearing in mind it ran fine with the old track that was truly knackered I find it very strange that suddenly we should have problems now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Dear Mick, Are you getting the same sound on both sides? I agree with Richard about it not laying flat and it should curl up naturally. You say you suspect that you have a track pin in wrong, I find that hard to imagine but the truth can be stranger than fiction. Where in relation to front and back do you split the track and what tools do you use? Has all of the drive train ie road wheels etc been maintained recently? How are you measuring track tension? Don't be obsessed by the number of links, track tension adjusted properly is more important. The CVR(T) has a "slap" to the undrside of the sponson that is possibly what you are hearing dependant on terrain conditions. Some photos would be worth taking and posting up. Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Aide Memoire 51 51.1 Track on vehicle correctly tensioned 51.1.1 Pitch - must not exceed 1187.5 mm (46.75 ins) over 10 links * 51.1.2 Pins- must be concentric with all five lugs 51.1.3 Bush Walking - pin end must protrude between 8 and 22mm from end of lug 51.1.4 Cracked castings - check within condemnation limits 51.1.5 Rubber Pads - checked for excessive wear or damage *This measurement should be made on that part of the track under the roadwheels with the vehicle standing on level ground extract from AESP 2350-T-220-522 Diana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 (edited) Are the sprockets hooked? If the old track has worn with the track maybe the new track isn't running properly against the sprocket teeth? Edited August 28, 2014 by BRDM Driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Mick, we could really use some pictures so we can help you R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiffy_massive Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Ditto from me. If the tracks were that badly worn the sprockets would be in a bad way so would also need replacing. If the sprocket teeth are worn they will slip in the links and make for a horrible ride with lots of banging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I get frustrated easily, pictures would help here. The drive sprockets can be swapped around to wear on the other side. It is a fairly common practice that if you change the track then the sprocket likely should be changed also, this applies to bulldozers and other things that crawl that I work with. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hello folks, Mick's son here. Thanks for the responses. The vehicle has not moved out of the shed for a few months now but I intend to give the tracks a go this weekend as I've been playing with other toys recently. I'm in much the same boat as you Robin as I work as a construction plant engineer so I'm sick to death of tracks when I get home! In short, I have replaced almost everything on the tracks, all sprockets and carriers are as new. The roadwheels are all good, I replaced a rear idler last time we had a play with it as there was an abnormal amount of play in the hub. All oil levels have been checked and each hub checked for play/tightness. The alignment seems to be good, measuring from the hull all measurements to centre are within 5mm of each other. The track itself does indeed curl 'up', perhaps Dad didn't make himself clear in that I rolled the track out flat right the way along its length and looked for any abnormal 'bumps' along the run. Any I found I replaced the links with others we have for peace of mind. My plan of action is to measure the length of both and whilst everything is off just reaffirm that all is okay. We know the usual clatters and bangs of CVR(T) awfully well by now and trust me having been on the road these are not the norm. I'll let you know how I get on. Just to add this is where I usually break the track, at the front between sprocket/first roadwheel. Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I am convinced that the issue is very simple. I recall a whack whack sound after doing a track job only to find that the tea break had caused the broken process curse to appear in the form of a pin walking inwards as the nut had not been put on in the sectional build up. Doh! Luckily that was caught before only pride was injured. Await further news R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I'm not a CVRT man, but aren't there two types of track? You aren't fitting the later (Stormer?) type by any chance? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Any possibility some of the track pins are seized in their metal sleeves or dead bushes where the bush is rotating in the link? Diana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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