Starfire Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Hi All, The museum has a Daimler Dingo that has been sitting for a few years that I would like to breathe some life into for an upcoming open day. I'd like to change all the fluids but have no idea what it uses. I'm guessing that it's fairly similar to a Ferret? It will probably need something done with the batteries and fresh fuel. Is there anything else that anyone is aware of particular to Dingos that I need to take care of? Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty2 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 one thing the bevelboxes will be empty they need to be filled first thing before you move it, it takes 90. You can use ener grease from BP, thick like grease when cooled but like 90 when hot, stops the bevel boxes "leaking". See table for other oils source is the Dingo register newsletter No5 1978 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Hi All, The museum has a Daimler Dingo that has been sitting for a few years that I would like to breathe some life into for an upcoming open day. I'd like to change all the fluids but have no idea what it uses. I'm guessing that it's fairly similar to a Ferret? It will probably need something done with the batteries and fresh fuel. Is there anything else that anyone is aware of particular to Dingos that I need to take care of? Cheers, Terry hi Terry, I have been working on Dingos over a 34 year period and rebuilt a good few over the years. To elaborate more on the oils, I tend to err on the original spec. lubricants and fluids or a suitable modern substitute without any problems. Engine and pre-selector gearbox; SAE30 Classic / Vintage oil with low or nil detergent. Transfer box; SAE50 engine oil Bevel boxes and outer Tractas/hubs; SAE140 gear oil Brakes and shock absorbers: DOT4 brake fluid Fluid Flywheel; ISO 10 hydraulic oil The use of liquid greases in bevel boxes and hubs can mean a very slow levelling out of the lubricants when filling and their inability to flow around ball and roller bearings when cold and will still leak when hot. Any leaks on the tracta spherical housings can be avoided by careful rebuilding. Also you need to grease the drive coupling between the gearbox and transfer box very regularly using a heavy grease that will stick inside the coupling. You will not be able to drain the outer Tractas or hubs, no drain plugs and the flywheel cannot be drained without making a wholly mess, so just top it up. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Thanks guys, I'm a bit confused about the bevel boxes: The original doc specifies OEP 220, which is an EP90 gear oil (and what I run in my Saracen), while Richard mentions an SAE140. Which should I be using? Does anyone have copies of the manuals? The service schedule would be fantastic Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys, I'm a bit confused about the bevel boxes: The original doc specifies OEP 220, which is an EP90 gear oil (and what I run in my Saracen), while Richard mentions an SAE140. Which should I be using? Does anyone have copies of the manuals? The service schedule would be fantastic Cheers, Terry Terry, If your document lists OEP220, then it is not an original document. The OEP220 (EP90) was substituted for SAE140 in postwar years to make it more compatible with other vehicles, but because of the poor sealing arrangement in Tracta housings, the EP90 is more prone to leaking than a Straight 140 oil, especially in your warmer climate. A point worth noting is that the tracta spherical challis has bronze bushings for the shaft and EP oils can effect these. The bushes are prone to wear and it is their fit that stops oil from migrating from bevel box to outer tracta and hub. Very often you will find on checking levels that the outer has too much oil in it. cheers Richard Edited August 18, 2014 by Richard Farrant added info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 We finally got it started today, but the flywheel is leaking quite badly and it has been fitted with a non-standard coil. I have to say that I was very impressed with how easily it started after not having been run for 6 or 7 years; less than 30 seconds of cranking and she was running very nicely. [video=youtube_share;yAnj1DBCxSg] we did have a problem with the coil, as the standard one has been replaced with a cheap automotive item and the screened cable did not fit in it properly and the electrical tape was doing a crappy job of keeping it there. Richard, are you able to supply the correct coil? I did enjoy driving it. I'm quite a big guy (fat), but after wriggling in, I fit quite well. the driving position is strange and will take some getting used to, but the gearbox is lovely and the steering surprisingly light. Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivor Ramsden Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Great to see it rolling. What do you estimate the grin factor to be? By that I mean the width and duration of the grin on your face after driving it! It looks like an 8/10 to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 we did have a problem with the coil, as the standard one has been replaced with a cheap automotive item and the screened cable did not fit in it properly and the electrical tape was doing a crappy job of keeping it there. Richard, are you able to supply the correct coil? I did enjoy driving it. I'm quite a big guy (fat), but after wriggling in, I fit quite well. the driving position is strange and will take some getting used to, but the gearbox is lovely and the steering surprisingly light. Hi Terry, Any coils available will be around 60 years old, for reliability I would use a suitable modern 12v coil and you can easily make up normally HT and LT leads to it. There is a tendency now to fit normal spark plugs and change the screened leads to conventional 7mm HT cable. The original type plugs if found are expensive and do tend to foul, where as modern plugs have a wider heat range, more available and a lot cheaper. This all increases reliability and performance. Getting into a Dingo if of a larger size, that is long in the leg, etc is not easy, but once in there they are a cracking little vehicle and years ahead of their time. They spawned the transmission layout designs of all the Alvis 6x6 range as well as Ferret and Fox. The reason the seat is at an angle is mainly so the driver can see out of the rear hatch if caught in an ambush and has to slam it into reverse, with seat in lowered position. I am current rebuilding a Dingo engine and will be changing the flywheel seal and will send you the seal details as you should get it from a normal bearing stockist locally. To access, the engine and gearbox has to be lifted out as one unit, entailing removal of petrol tank, bulkhead and some flooring, not a quick job but an opportunity to check out and other problems and give it a good clean up. Good to see it out again. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snort Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi Terry,Any coils available will be around 60 years old, for reliability I would use a suitable modern 12v coil and you can easily make up normally HT and LT leads to it. There is a tendency now to fit normal spark plugs and change the screened leads to conventional 7mm HT cable. The original type plugs if found are expensive and do tend to foul, where as modern plugs have a wider heat range, more available and a lot cheaper. This all increases reliability and performance. Getting into a Dingo if of a larger size, that is long in the leg, etc is not easy, but once in there they are a cracking little vehicle and years ahead of their time. They spawned the transmission layout designs of all the Alvis 6x6 range as well as Ferret and Fox. The reason the seat is at an angle is mainly so the driver can see out of the rear hatch if caught in an ambush and has to slam it into reverse, with seat in lowered position. I am current rebuilding a Dingo engine and will be changing the flywheel seal and will send you the seal details as you should get it from a normal bearing stockist locally. To access, the engine and gearbox has to be lifted out as one unit, entailing removal of petrol tank, bulkhead and some flooring, not a quick job but an opportunity to check out and other problems and give it a good clean up. Good to see it out again. regards, Richard Hi Richard, I too would be interested in the flywheel seal used so I can get one ahead of the job. Many thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snort Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi Richard, I too would be interested in the flywheel seal used so I can get one ahead of the job. Many thanks Steve Also what modern plug is best to use. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Thanks Richard, The proper coil would still be best, if they can be found. Grin factor was high, but we didn't get to thrash it around the paddock and I'd been in a Saracen for most of the day, so maybe 7/10 Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivor Ramsden Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 ...I'd been in a Saracen for most of the day, so maybe 7/10 I went to Tesco. :cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 I went to Tesco. :cry: Not quite the same experience is it Ivor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 I went to Tesco. :cry: I spent most of the day in there fixing it (dropped the bloody filler plug for the gearbox into the "void" and had to spend about 3 hours removing and fitting the floor plates in 30 degree heat). The most fun bit of the day was the 15 minute trip to the petrol station to fill it up, which left me walking with a limp, if you know what I mean Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 The coil: I also couldn't work out why the right side had a 5 barrel smoke projector: Turns out that it is broken and someone has modified the cover to include a well fitted blanking plate. I wonder if that was done while still in MOD service, or after? Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.