Locolines Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Ok , I got this old mk4 running on the button now, but having to use an external fuel tank as the proper one is completely filthy and blocked. Just checked the fluids in the gearbox, transfer box and fluid drive thingy and they are all full of beautifully clean oil. The Trouble is that the gear change pedal is laying flat on the floor and there's no sign of pressure like a normal pedal. it just doesn't do anything. It's Ll connected up ok and the shaft where it goes into the gearbox operates. is this wrong and something's broke, or am I doing something wrong ? also , how do I get the fuel tank out ? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 My gear change pedal was like that at first, we had to reset the busbar spring on the side of the gearbox. The fuel tank isn't too bad to remove, but you may have to take the turret off first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Hi just a thought have you selected a gear then operated the clutch pedal when neutral is selected the pedal sits flat on the floor if i remember rightly regards wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Wally, please don't call it a clutch pedal! You are correct that you select a gear then use the pedal to change, but there is no clutch involved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 HI SORRY you are correct it is gear change pedal not a clutch pedal had a senior moment but it is not as bad as some of the things I have heard it called oh happy days regards wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 To get the tank out you have to remove the following turret and base plate off rear decking very helpful if this is off all the cover plates around the gearbox the airfilter and its connection pipe with the carburettor horn the batteries and battery boxes the distribution panel (inter vehicle starting socket) this panel and wiring can be bungged up out of the way generator panel centre gearbox mounts disconnect the fuel pump from the tank disconnect the tank mounts from the hull two per side of the tank disconnect the wiring from the sender As its a Mk 4 and I haven't worked on those you find that you have to remove more. I might have missed something so its a rough list. if you find that the tank won't budge and seems to be stuck jack the vehicle up in-between the rear wheel stations and if it still won't budge you might have to remove the engine hull crossbar and jack it up in-between the rear wheel stations again. The bolts for the crossbar won't pull out the weight of the wheels and wheel stations will gradually loosen as the vehicle is jacked higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locolines Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Thank you, it seems too much for me to be able to do outside my house. I would never get the turret off without some sort of hoist. I think it will have to be an auxillery tank inside one of the flotation boxes ! is that right, the pedal lays flat on the floor until you put it into forward or reverse ? sorry to be. Dumb, but I know nothing about ferrets other than what's in the manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 HI what I would do is select 2nd or 3rd gear as far as I remember leave in forward or reverse but make sure its engaged in one or another stamp down on the pedal several times and see if the pedal returns back to the upright watch for it kicking back its worth a try all the best regards wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locolines Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Will try that tomorrow thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 sorry should have said if the ferret was left in neutral the pedal would be near to the floor it would normally come up when a gear was selected in most cases 2nd to move off wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferretfixer Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Thank you, it seems too much for me to be able to do outside my house. I would never get the turret off without some sort of hoist. I think it will have to be an auxillery tank inside one of the flotation boxes ! is that right, the pedal lays flat on the floor until you put it into forward or reverse ? sorry to be. Dumb, but I know nothing about ferrets other than what's in the manual When I had my First Privately Owned Ferret. I did not have the luxury of a Hoist/Engine crane Etc. As per Andys post in removing the components he has already mentioned. If you also remove the complete gun mounting cradle from inside the Turret (If it's a Rotating Turreted example.) The tank WILL JUST have enough room to come out. You have to rotate & twist it a little here & there. But I most certainly did it. Alone & with no help from anyone else. Took it to a specialist. & they cut three sections in the tank & 'Peeled' the sections back. This allowed a hand to enter & scrub clean the whole of the inside. Oh! O forgot to mention! They submerged the tank in a liquid of some kind to kill the petrol fumes/deposits inside it. I had the option of having the inside lined by 'Tinning' (Completely covered in soft solder) but was on a limited budget. & worked on the theory, that all 'Normal' petrol tanks of the day weren't lined!. When cleaned completely. The rolled the patches back & welded round the edges. Pressure tested the tank = NO LEAKS! & then re lead painted the external surfaces after cleaning off the old paint. I Resprayed it silver & refitted the tank. Then ALL the internal fittings Etc. All petrol pipes were replaced & the tap cork washer also. As well as a new petrol filter of course! NEVER had an issue with crap getting up to the carb after that! It wasn't too bad a job & Im sure you COULD do it on your own. If you work slowly & methodically. ENSURE that Batteries & storage boxes are removed from the vehicle. For safety reasons & also to allow your self more room! If you have a MKI/II then you WILL need to remove this fixed superstructure first. IE: you WILL need a crane/hoist to do this!......Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locolines Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Ok, no matter what I do I cannot get it to go into forward or reverse when the engine is running. Just grates the gears. theres just nothing on the pedal. Any ideas other than there's something wrong inside the box ? I can't see anything missing at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locolines Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 My gear change pedal was like that at first, we had to reset the busbar spring on the side of the gearbox. The fuel tank isn't too bad to remove, but you may have to take the turret off first. How do I reset it please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) How do I reset it please ? When you press the gearchange pedal down you should be able to feel the spring pushing back against your foot. If that pressure isn't there then you need to reset it as per the manual. http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/manuals.htm To go from forward to reverse with the vehicle stopped press your foot on the brake pedal this holds the vehicle in place and stops the box moving. With the vehicle stopped and in gear press down on the gearchange pedal down and at the same time as the pedal is going down move the forward / reverse lever in one swift movement either forward or back. If you try changing from forward and reverse on a slope and don't press your foot on the brake pedal the vehicle can creep forward and you will not be able to change the direction off drive Edited June 18, 2013 by ferrettkitt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locolines Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 When you press the gearchange pedal down you should be able to feel the spring pushing back against your foot. If that pressure isn't there then you need to reset it as per the manual. http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/manuals.htm To go from forward to reverse with the vehicle stopped press your foot on the brake pedal this holds the vehicle in place and stops the box moving. With the vehicle stopped and in gear press down on the gearchange pedal down and at the same time as the pedal is going down move the forward / reverse lever in one swift movement either forward or back. Ok I musta missed that in the manual thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Ok I musta missed that in the manual thank you No worries your not on your own with that one many owners used to turn the engine off to change direction forward and back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 think of changing from fwd to reverse like a bolt on a rifle , real positive solid movement(and quick)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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