Nickmow Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I was wondering why there was a bit of a hum in 1st Gear so thought I would pop the inspection cover to have a shufty. Found this ! :cry: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Basically all the teeth Bar 1 ! are the same on First/reverse gear. Not good,but I least now I know what the noise was. I have the manual etc, but is there an online guide or piccies anyone could point me to for Removing the transmission. Ive found a few about rebuilding but not much about the takey offey bit. Im sure I can manage its just that Ive never done it before and naturally a bit nervous. that or any pointers from our resident Jeepery experts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMS Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 getting the box out is easy enough - drain oil, remove props, remove top of box, transfer case levers (removing the pin can be tricky if its seized, it will probably not come all the way out as it hit the body) remove clutch rod/cable, speedo cable etc. next and most importantly remove the clutch thrust bearing return spring from inside the bell housing, through the inspection panel. this will allow the clutch fork and bearing to slide off the shaft when you pull the box out. getting the fork back in is a pain, particularly if you have sausage fingers like me! then support the weight under the bell housing with a bottle jack, remove the gearbox cross member (you can leave it on but i find it easier to remove it). i then use an engine hoist to take the weight of the box while i remove the four bolts holding it to the bell housing. slide gearbox back and lower on hoist, a second pair of hands come in handy for this part to steady the box, you may need to lower the engine a bit to get enough room for the box to go back enough. hope that helps:-) that oil in your gearbox looks a bit milky? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickmow Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Sounds easy when you put it like that, thanks. Daft question, does the gearbox and transfer case come off together ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Johns Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 (edited) Sounds easy when you put it like that, thanks. Daft question, does the gearbox and transfer case come off together ? Yes take it out as one unit, all you need to know on the rebuild is on G503.com http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=54214 Edited March 28, 2012 by Nick Johns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickmow Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 That's a great link, thanks Nick. Day off tomorrow so I think I know whats on the agenda. Keep you all updated cheers Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) slide gearbox back and lower on hoist, a second pair of hands come in handy for this part to steady the box, you may need to lower the engine a bit to get enough room for the box to go back enough. hope that helps:-) Nothing to add to this except remember to support the engine securely before pulling the box, a iron bar between the road springs and some wooden packing will do the job and let you move the jeep out of the way. Also be prepared for the weight to shift suddenly to the right as the main shaft clears the clutch splines, keep your fingers out of the way. The cause of this is the transfer case mass is offset to the gearbox centre line. One way of avoiding this if you are working on a hard surface is to use a trolley jack under the centre of the transfer case as well as the lifting strops. You'll need to make up a couple of wooden wedges so that it sits square on the trolley jack plate. If you are not on a hard surface you can use a sheet of 3/4 ply as a runway. Pete Edited March 29, 2012 by Pete Ashby sausage fingers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickmow Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) Due in no small part to the encouragement and tips offered by you chaps. Along with 6 1/2 hours of sweating and what I believe my neighbours are now calling "Jeep tourettes" (there where a few things needed sorting on the way) I managed to de-transmission Le Jeep. Did take me an age to figure out what the "Clutch Thrust Bearing Return spring" was.... then I found it hiding in there. I used some artery clamps from work, to lock on to it and ping it off, Think they will work well for the refit too. Big thank you chaps, I know we engage in a virtural world but without a few tips from here I would of been stuffed. Uploaded with ImageShack.us All I got to do now if figure out how to get the bleedin thing back on :-D Edit.. Oh and Pete the tip about the Iron bar, Golden ! I was fizzin a bit about where the heck I would get a soddin Iron bar from and what kind of idea was that etc etc (all part of the stress mate) Then I remembered the Broken Half shaft, Was one of the first things I did when I got her. Kept hold of it for no good reason really. But stuff me I used it today, just as you suggested. Thanks mate. Nick Edited March 29, 2012 by Nickmow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Edit.. Oh and Pete the tip about the Iron bar, Golden ! I was fizzin a bit about where the heck I would get a soddin Iron bar from and what kind of idea was that etc etc (all part of the stress mate) Then I remembered the Broken Half shaft, Was one of the first things I did when I got her. Kept hold of it for no good reason really. But stuff me I used it today, just as you suggested. Thanks mate. Nick Your welcome Nick, after you've done a few it gets a bit easier, but the swearing is just the same. Glad you got the box out OK the moral of the story of the half shaft is never throw anything away!!, that probably explains why I have a barn full of junk that one day will come in useful if only I could remember where I put it. Putting the box back in is the just the reverse of what you did to take it out, remember DO NOT push the clutch pedal down before you get the main shaft spline engaged or you will lose the alinement the on the clutch plate, more swearing I'm afraid. To aid the spine through the clutch plate put the transfer case and gear box into gear and turn the rear output flange backwards and forwards while pushing the whole lump forward, don't try to twist the gearbox/transfer case to get the main shaft to engage you will end up distorting it or wrecking the front bearing. The main shaft spigot has to be in line with the fly wheel bushing the splines have to be in line and engage with the clutch plate you do this by raising and lowering the gearbox/transfer case and the engine using a jack and large packing block under the rear of the engine sump..... oh and more swearing of course. Before you replace the box the smallest amount of cooper grease on the main shaft splines and on the bush spigot will help things along do not be over generous you don't want it grease getting on the clutch plate or you'll be doing this all again in a few weeks time. regards Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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