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Help with first MV purchase


Alan

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I am about to (after 12 years!) make my first foray into MV ownership, but could do with some advice.

 

I am considering buying a lightweight landrover which is advertised on a well known MV site, but have no mechanical knowledge at all. I have read a few of the guides but apart from rust on the chassis/bulkhead are there any other known weaknesses? How does one check if four wheel drive works okay ? Anything else I should check?

 

Also what are they like to maintain? I assume most of you do this yourselves, I'd be looking to take it somewhere, any recommendations in the west kent area?

 

Any guidance would be most appreciated.

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hi alan landrover lightweight great choice had x2 , take for a good drive round , look for oil leaks petrol leaks its a landrover so probaly has them ! heater if it has one , rear chassis and one of the petrol tanks will leak but no problem should have 2 , when i bought one of mine it caught fire on way home with it at night wiring loom my wife was about due with baby aswell but AA man got us home , very easy to work on so no really major problems go for it !

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Alan

 

A great choice, I own a number of vehicles but the lightweight is one of my favourites... Apart from what you have already noted you also need to think about what you want to do with it ie do you want it to be as original as possible, or are you happy with a few sensible mods. For example if you want to fit the proper tyres (6.5 x16 goodyear xtra grips) these are hard to find and expensive. Also are the sidewalls cracked at all? Also what mods has it had, is the interior original is the data plate in place? The original miltary style headlamps can be hard to find if theyve been replaced. Most spares are cheap and readily available but you might use a lot of them!

 

What is the seller like - ie are they an enthusiast as this gives an indication as to how good their maintenance might be (but not always!). How much use does the vehicle get? The more the better in my experience, it is amazing how many oil leaks, squeaks and rattles resolve themselves with use. What is the wiring like? Do all the electrics work as they should? Does it have the original split tailgate? And the original flat ended hubs? If you can get a test drive does it pull to one side on the brakes? This could indicate a brake problem but might also indicate a hub seal leaking on the shoes (is there any oil on the rim if so) easily fixed usually but good bargaining point.

 

The half ton military landrover by Mark Cook is an essential book to have before you buy. Although it doesnt give buying advice it will show you what they should look like and help you understand the different models.

 

As with all landies the 4wd gubbins can seize if not used for long periods so make sure you can push down the yellow lever, and pull the red lever back and forth without problems.

 

Although they are getting a little rarer, they still come up regularly so dont feel you have to go for the first you see.

 

Basically though just enjoy it, they are fab little vehicles, the best landy by far (in my humble opinion)...

 

Cheers

Timbo

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Alan - if you ever played with a Meccano set when you were younger you will be fine with a Land-Rover ! One of the first full restorations I did was a Series One and it was just like that . There are a wealth of suppliers of bits for them and a vast amount of information available in books and on the net .

 

One of my great regrets is passing up the offer I once had of an Airportable in my impoverished youth . Given my time over again somehow I would find the money and buy it .

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Take someone else with you to see it! As cynical a person as possible, stops you when the stars in your eyes blind you. :D

 

Engage four wheel drive low by pushing down yellow lever, check it out. Clear low by working red lever back and fore. If low dosen't clear, quietly check wether spring has gone down into transmission tunnel. If it has leave in palce, bargin very low price 'cause gear box is knackered. Then when bought for pennies, unscrew yelllow knob remove spring. Put a couple of washers down the lever reftit spring and knob work red again. Pay particular attention to the rear chassis member, tap thouroughly. Check for thick wads of underseal or filler. Outriggers are another place that get holes don't assume because it is only a small hole it is no problem. Drop windscreen and check bulkhead top bar. They are notorious rust traps. Foot wells .

Leacking fuel tanks are a problem they are nigh on impossible or blistering expensive to replace. Check voltage, 12 volt or 24. If it has been converted from 24 to 12 you can end up with a lot of problems. Bear in mind the Light weight is an enthusats vehicle, IE everything is diffucult or expensive to scource. You may well be better to consider a plain Series 3 109 GS. West Kent you say, where abouts?

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Guys

 

Thanks for your comments.

 

The owner (apparently) is an EMRLA member and has owned the vehicle for a while (its been to Beltring a few times, i can recall seing it there). Seems to have been returned to a fairly original state, split tailgate, new tyres in a similar pattern to original (but larger), starting handle under bonnet, bench seats etc.

 

Has had clutch and master slave cylinders replaced (whatever they are...) One outrigger been replaced the rest of the chassis is claimed to be okay. Rear cross member is said to be okay for ages if looked after, by being dosed in oil? (it comes with replacement).

 

Tony B, I am based near Tonbridge not a stones through from the mecca that is Beltring. I had originally considered a 110 but a L/W will fit in my garage. Anything else would need to on the lane I live along and i have to consider the vehicle security and my neighbours !

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take for a good drive round

 

 

... and - if you have no mechanical knowledge at all - drive it to a garage to have them carry out an inspection. A simple MOT test should reveal the Landy's condition.

 

Good luck with your search & never buy the first vehicle you see.

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A few points here. I've owned and run virtually daily, (that's by far the best way), a series 3 lightweight, or air-portable Land Rover since 2002. It's a 24v, and people said in the early years, oh, you need to convert it to 12, 24 is problematical and expensive. While some items might be more expensive, eg plugs, in my expereience the system is bomb-proof, as it was made to be. You can poke about on E bay for instance and pick up the bits if you wish. I bought a set of screened plugs for £22 delivered recently.

 

Tyres? I've always had Hi-miler 650x16s, they are proper military, (and noisy), I've worn out one set, one set is in situ, and another set is in the shed. I bought two vitually unused sets from LW Vass for sensible money, I recall the second set was about £220 delivered to Cornwall. That said I suspect they are rarer now.

 

Transmission? I suspect you need to expect whining and the odd clunk now and then! My gearbox isn't the quietest, and you have to remember, as with the engine, it's an ancient design. No racing changes I fear. Oil leaks are normal, or rather small oil leaks are, it's a Land Rover. Obviously the bulkhead, vent panel and chassis are important and need looking after, and can be a major expense if they need repair, keep slapping on the waste engine oil. I've had my chassis properly waxoyled internally as well on a few occasions. Probably not a good idea to buy anything with a dodgy bulkhead, you can see if it is, it's all out in the open basically.

 

If the LR is direct from the military, the chassis will be well covered in underseal. This is not necessarily good, but apart from getting it all off and undersealing again, what can you do? (Apart from slapping on the waste oil!)

 

Sometimes you read of high speeds and also dubious road holding. I shouldn't get too excited about high speeds, and if you want to corner at speed don't buy a middle-aged LR! As has been said, you don't need to buy the first LR you see, although I did, (thankfully), you see see by looking whether it's OK or not, but it won't necessarily be dent and dig free. Hopefully it won't be messed about with, wrong wheels, big tyres etc etc, although you can put it back to it's original state.

 

Mark Cook's book is a good buy, and what you also need is a local, friendly, enthusiastic LR expert who comes recommended! You will learn SO much, and then you can do a lot of the work yourself. There will be things to repair I suspect. Meanwhile, whatever you get, use it and enjoy it, there's no point having it if you aren't going to do that! Keeping the vehicle garaged is a plus.

 

Finally....please keep it military!

Edited by Meteor mark 4B
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Finally....please keep it military!

 

Oh Yes Please.............That is the important bit about a 1/2-Ton or any military vehicle...........

 

If you want to trick up a landie then best buy an old Range Rover Classic as they are cheap as chips and epic off road with some stuff bolted on!

 

Over the years far too many lightweights have gone down the trialer/ fat tyres route and the preservation of such a vehicle is lost.

 

Don't forget the Lightweight was not a civilian land rover and therefore in some respects for land rover like the 101 FC was as iconic in military terms as the Jeep to Willis and Ford...........

 

24v landies are robust and most of the 24v bits were common to series 2 and 3 90 amp landies etc......So that should not scare you.

 

For a first purchase you want a sound runner with solid bulkhead. Top vent panel and above average chassis. All of these are repairable, but at expense!

 

However being a member of this forum, Lightweight Landrover Forum and Ex Military Land Rover Forum will help you gain the knowledge and obtain good spares at sensible money as we all try to look after one another!

 

The Mark Cook book is an excellent purchase and quite invaluable for a Lightweight owner. After that the user handbook is the day to day bible.

 

If you buy one PM me as I have a complete set of parts lists for the S111 that will be a God send to you in the future on parts..............

 

Best of luck and dont let my album images scare you off............

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Would echo the comment about the user manual and the illustrated parts catalogue, both are invaluable and readily available, published by brooklands i think? Also if you are not mechanically minded the haynes manual and the LR series restoration book, also by haynes can be useful...

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Would echo the comment about the user manual and the illustrated parts catalogue, both are invaluable and readily available, published by brooklands i think? Also if you are not mechanically minded the haynes manual and the LR series restoration book, also by haynes can be useful...

 

 

Defo....A lot of people get phased by the lightweight, but it is a typical landrover in many respects and 'All But' some individual features follows the principals of all the civi LR series 2a or 3's as covered in the Haynes Manual..............

 

Good Shout Timbo

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I would go along with the comments about running them on a regular basis, my 101 servo leaks if left standing, but seals itself if used. My old ferret would hate being left standing, especially the gears and points....best thing I did was convert the 101 to electronic ignition.

 

The other thing with the lightweight, it cannot really be mistaken for anything but military :)

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There are plenty of people around Tonbridge can help. It is worth joining IMPS, MVT, EMLRA or all. There are various insurance deals etc avavilable to members and of course the knowledge base. If you are a memeber of some of the civillian motoring clubs , they used to do a pre sale inspection. Remeber any check you do will be state 'At the time of examination' so have a look for anything that may cause a problem in the near future. Fuel tanks and body panels are the most awkward things I know of to replace. Electronic ignition is the best upgrade to look for. They do make life so much nicer, the old system works, but does need maintinence. Rear chassis member replacement is almost a routine job with old Land Rovers. It is a negotiating point for a sale, if the member is in poor condition the vehicle will fail MOT as unsafe, and if it is questionable, should be replaced.

Edited by Tony B
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Thanks for all the advice, all duly noted.

 

Rest assured vehicle will stay as is in its military state, I have been a militaria collector for over 20 years, with my primary interst being WW2 but over the last two years I have started on post war militaria and have hankered after a jeep or small MV for all that time. Unfortunately due to work commitments and having lived in London with no garage (typically when jeeps were cheap - less that £6,000!) I was unable to buy. When we made the decison to move to the country a garage was a pre-requsite, unfortunatley its taken me the last 7 years to get round to actually buying something. I still hanker after a jeep but prices have put me off and next on my list would be a landie.

 

I have been an MVT member for nearly 10 years and have been a member on this forum almost since it started, so am not entering the world of MV ownership completely blind, I just want to make sure my first purchase is not a wrong-un.

 

Judging by the feed back I have had from the seller (I hope he is not a forum member and I've caused any offence..) the vehicle in question looks genuine and seems well looked after. I am due to see it at the weekend, so hopefully (fingers crossed) will be finally joining you all in the hobby I love.

 

Once again thanks all for your help and comments.

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Very nice, that is the only downside of owning a 4x4, when it snows you have no excuse not to make it into work!

 

You may not have an excuse for not going to work but it does take an exceptionally long time to get there when it does.

Especially if you offer to pick up all your skiving colleagues.

 

Anyway lots of good advice above, Hope it turns out to be a good one.

 

Mike

 

PS: Still think your better off with a 109, plenty of room for accessories and sleeping.

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