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Three pin flasher unit


Tony B

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Don't I'm dreamimg the *** things. I've put LED bulbs to increase visibility, the system worked well except for short to a side light, nothing much just a glow on the side light. Cured the short and the whole lot stopped working! Obviously the loading on the flasher! So now have to work out how to increase the load. I've ordered a specific LED flasher unit, which according to blurb should plug and play, just hope it turns up as I'm supposed to be going to a show at Redhill over the weekend.

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Tony yes that's the problem with the LEDs you have to also wire in a resistor of significant wattage to simulate the load for the thermal switch in the flasher to work. So each LED has to be loaded with one of these high wattage resistors, which is a pain.

 

Good that there is a solid state flasher to match. I'll wait & see how yours performs first I think.;)

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Tony yes that's the problem with the LEDs you have to also wire in a resistor of significant wattage to simulate the load for the thermal switch in the flasher to work. So each LED has to be loaded with one of these high wattage resistors, which is a pain.

 

Good that there is a solid state flasher to match. I'll wait & see how yours performs first I think.;)

GEE! Thanks!:D I'll post the info as soon as. Good point the bulb puts a resistance of about 75 ohms on the circuit so at least I know.

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It might do for the Shorland which is 12v.

 

But there are a problem for the Pig which is 24v:

 

I can find no 24v flasher units.

 

As the brake lights are not double filament tail/stop type, the rear brake lights double as the flashers. It took quite a lot of ingenuity (6 diodes & 1 relay although I realise I could have done it with just 9 diodes!) to avoid the brake light triggering the front & rear turn lights.

 

The front turn lights have a clear lens, but because people expect an orange turn light I have used orange glass paint on the bulbs rather than the lens which preserves the originality as the fluted type were only made in red or clear. But I can find no suitable orange LEDs. I don't want to put the glass paint on the LEDs as it has to be cured in an oven!

 

Because all the light fittings are the early fluted type rather than the later Lucas FV pattern the maximum size bulb that can be accommodated is a slender 10w bulb, which are quite hard to find. Unfortunately as the LED substitute bulbs I have seen have a massive cluster of quite low power diodes rather a few more powerful ones, they are not going to fit.

 

So maybe in a year or two there will be some modestly sized bulb replacements?

 

I would like to change them to improve the chance of me being seen!

Edited by fv1609
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Just make up a flasher unit using a 555 timer chip circuit and a relay. The 555 is a timer chip available at many electronic components stores and is easy to build as a usefull variable timer kit. I have found many uses for these on vehicles over the years.

Use the recommended settings for an astable timer with a pulse rate of 1 second , then use the timer to drive a relay. This relay can be 12 volt or 24 volt as required and is independant on impedance, unlike a flasher unit. This means it will work well with LED'S or bulbs, including trailers if the relay has sufficient current rating. These are available from maplin and are more reliable than any old type flasher unit. You can google the components needed but remember to use it as an astable oscillator with a time of about 1 second. That way it will be legal and better than most old type flasher units you can buy. if you want to do this and need more info let me know.

Good luck.

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Yes it's all a question of time really (no pun intended). I have quite a few 555s here & even a book along the lines of 101 555 circuits which may well have something that is appropriate for flasher timers. But its then a case of translating it into a compact & rugged form that will withstand the life in the Pig.

 

A valid point to make something manly enough to switch bulbs if the LEDs fail for any reason.

 

Just a thought though how robust would a 555 be if some welding was going on?

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