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M35A2 New owner


Boblester40

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Greetings...

Well as planed i am now a proud owner of a 1956 M35A2 ,you may have seen her on milweb but i took pitty on her and brought her home , Myself and Gary (stevemill AKA GMC CCKW resto) travelled down to kent last week and drove the hulk back to cheshire . I must say for a 50+ old truck she never missed a beat apart from when the canvas roof gave way and we went convertable just as the rain started ;-) . A rumage in the back uncovered a suitable repair in the form of a small sheet which was rigged and kept us warm all the way back.

 

As mentioned she is a 1956 non turbo multifuel 17000 miles and 720 hours on the clock , there is plenty to do included some rust repairs to the doors and sills and a couple of axle seals to sort , the plan is to convert her to a whistler turbo and put a crago bed on the back (IF ANY ONE KNOWS OF ONE LET ME KNOW) she will be returned to olive drab also.

 

Looking fowards to getting stuck into it when the weather warms up and also helping gaz with the CCKW and we plan to be out later in the year, BTW if any one wants a workshop body give me a shout it has the electrics inside the windows look OK bit of rust but would tidy up well

 

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Regards

bob

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You'll like the turbo. It will clean up the smoke and add power depending on how you adjust the pump. 20-30% more power seems to be safe. I had to turn my pump down ~2-1/2 turns (after adding a turbo) to get to that level. Currently there is a whistler on one of big on-line auction sites, though 275$US seems a bit high. Deals pop up from time to time. I paid $100US for a healthy non-whistler(D type) that was on e-bay a few years back. It came with some needed bits like the exhaust coupler and oil line. The j pipe can be found new. There are clean air kits w/o turbo that have most of what you'll need. I think those do not include the manifold adapter. The kits are at local swap meets here for around 250$US. Try the SteelSoldiers classified ad section.

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If you are already using all available fuel the only thing a turbo will do is quiet things down and lower EGT. If you turn up the IP you'll see the power and EGT increase. Change is very linear and RPM dependent. After just 2 adjustments you should be able to predict what additional IP changes will get you. The highest EGT usually occur at lower RPM's (because air flow is lower). I have found that 13psi@ 2500rpm is EGT safe when towing max loads (w/the newer style head gaskets).

Edited by jimk
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hope you enjoy your new REO, bought mine last year and spent a load more money getting it right as was mislead into the truth,never the less got a fab truck now,enjoy hearing it whistle,and take it to plenty of shows as love driving it and getting out for the day.:-):-)

 

So might see you at the war and peace then????...:D

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If you are already using all available fuel the only thing a turbo will do is quiet things down and lower EGT. If you turn up the IP you'll see the power and EGT increase. Change is very linear and RPM dependent. After just 2 adjustments you should be able to predict what additional IP changes will get you. The highest EGT usually occur at lower RPM's (because air flow is lower). I have found that 13psi@ 2500rpm is EGT safe when towing max loads (w/the newer style head gaskets).

 

OK, Jim - On behalf of all the others (I hope) who can't follow this either, I'll own up to not having a clue what EGT is. :blush: I guess IP is injector pump, but can you enlighten me on EGT please? Thanks!:coffee:

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Yes "exhaust gas temperature" , it is a common mod to stick a pyro in the exhaust manifold to keep an eye on the temperatures when messing around with extra fuel , I will be doing this mod as i will turn the fuel up a little when i do the turbo converstion :cheesy:

 

 

Regards

bob

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  • 1 year later...

Well after a 12 month rest I have finally got round to making some progress on the M35 / M109 , I managed to source a drop side load bed so the box was removed a couple of weekends ago , the method I settled for was to tie the box round a tree and drive off, it came of no problems , very smooth infact :) . I have now started the resto , i have some brake lines to replace , going to change ou the flexy hoses out to to be safe , the body has been started also with rubbing down and red oxide , finally going to be olive drab satin . Next job is to swap out the head gaskets (few leaks visable ) and fit the turbo conversion .

 

Few pictures below , really enjoying it now thigs are moving again :laugh:

 

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COOL you have the rear exhaust and not the stack by the passengers door... makes the ride much more tolerable with the exhaust out the back.

 

I'm not sure if the UK uses Ethanol in its fuel... the water in the ethanol can allow for algae to grow in diesel fuel.. clogging up filters. So if you do mix petrol and diesel have some Algae-X or similar on hand.

 

Always have at least two spare primary filters and a set of secondaries on board. If you clog up a primary, changing a filter does not fix the problem... you still have a tank full of crap to worry about.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Lots more progress since last post , so far we have managed...

 

*changed head gaskets to new style ones as old ones were weeping oil

*Installed turbo conversion and exhaust

*Changed all the brake lines and flexible hoses & brake fluid

*Changed out the last leaking axle seal

 

Today we spent rubbing her down at the work shop and then a coat of red oxide followed by two heavy coats of olive drab , the paint was supposed to be satin finish but was to glossy for my liking so some matting compound was sourced to dull the finish , about 50 grams per litre was needed . Quite happy with the finish , just need to change some tires ,paint the wheels , paint and fit the bed and hey presto :-) , the list is getting smaller slowly :D:D:D

 

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Edited by Boblester40
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  • 5 months later...

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