spanter Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hello when I took the ambulance for its MOT this week it all passed fine but as I went to drive away the front left brake seized on. We traced it back to a collapsed flexi line, so clamped it off and got it home on three. I've now replaced all of the brake flexi lines, bleed the brakes off and now have very squeely left brakes and a pronounced pull to the left under breaking. The squeeling disappears with a good hard push on the brakes but the pull to the left is still there. Any ideas? Do I have a big problem or is it a case of simple adjustments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Pull to the left? Are you sure the wheel brake cylinder is ok? A adjustment to the brakes is also advisable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Pull to the left? Are you sure the wheel brake cylinder is ok? A adjustment to the brakes is also advisable. Note:: Wheel cylinders are handed, big bore forward. Have you re-centerd the shoes? Use a feeler gauge as per manual then adjust shoes up on snail cams. I found it easier to adjust the snail cams with both front wheel of the ground. The system was designed to be power bleed, and after bleeding did you release the rear right niplle and depress brakes once to create the air gap in the master? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 The system was designed to be power bleed, and after bleeding did you release the rear right niplle and depress brakes once to create the air gap in the master? :undecided: :undecided: :undecided: :confused: :confused: Tony, The Dodge system is pretty basic and I would not say "it was designed for power bleeding", especially as it is not mentioned in the TM that I have. As for releasing a rear bleeder on completion to "create the air gap in the master cylinder", then you have me there. After a full working life on vehicle mechanics for 43 years, this is a new one on me ! The gap between the push rod and piston is done by adjustment......if that is what you meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanter Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Cheers for the advice, I haven't done the adjustments (feeler gauges at work) yet but the master cylinder is correctly adjusted as per the TM but I'm a little worried about the wheel cylinder as we tried to free the brake off by driving back and forth while exercising the brake before we realised the flexi had collapsed.:blush: Didn't see anything in the TM about releasing the back right to create an air gap but if it helps I'll try anything. Will try and have another go this week hopefully with the help of a friend who used to own a champ and is a good mechanic. Cheers Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 :undecided: :undecided: :undecided: :confused: :confused: Tony, The Dodge system is pretty basic and I would not say "it was designed for power bleeding", especially as it is not mentioned in the TM that I have. As for releasing a rear bleeder on completion to "create the air gap in the master cylinder", then you have me there. After a full working life on vehicle mechanics for 43 years, this is a new one on me ! The gap between the push rod and piston is done by adjustment......if that is what you meant. Straight out of TM 9- 808 Richard. Page 291 paragraphs 151 and 152 A. Fluid level 3/4 inch from top of master and pressure bleeder. I use a Gunson with the hose fitted through a BSP thread reducer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Straight out of TM 9- 808 Richard. Page 291 paragraphs 151 and 152 A. Fluid level 3/4 inch from top of master and pressure bleeder. I use a Gunson with the hose fitted through a BSP thread reducer. None of that mentioned in TM10-1531 :??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 I know what you mean Richard. I didn't find the info in any other manual. The bleeder is a useful tip. You know how difficult it is to get at the top of the master and keep a regular flow of fluid. I modified the Gunson, and just used about 5 psi. Keeps the cylinder topped up. Unfortunatley the manual I have is on disc so I can't copy the releveant bit and post. The other thing worth mentioning is if you play with the wheel cylinders on a Dodge replace the copper sealing washers bettween the tubes and cylinder block. I put the wrong sized one on one of Katy's cylinders. Bad news I have to do the whole wheel again! :banghead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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