antarmike Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 Try Shorts of Swansea, they had all the bits to rebuild my '50s Constructor control box and claimed that it was quite modern for them. okay thanks, do you know a nymber for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 Shorts say they can't help and no longer have any parts, but they have put me onto Carwood rewinds in Yeovil. I have spoken to them, and they say if it pissible to get at the windings, they can rewind it. They will bench test it and have full Simms documentation. so that sounds hopeful. thanks everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 Both coils checked out ok on the Avo so I had another go at setting the cut in voltage, and hey presto it started to charge again. This may have been due to having to disconnect leads to get readings and then I got a better connection on re-assembly. Looking at the manual, it says the voltage setting for the cut out is (dependant on model) 24 or 25 Volts, at 60 degrees Fahrenheit. How temperature sensitive are the cut outs?Iit possible that the tempertaure, (very cold) on the day stopped the cut out working, through mis adjustment due to the cold? My thinking is that I have never before done a 13 hour run in deep winter, and on the few occasions I had used it for an hour or two, maybe it hadn't been charging, but because the period of use was much shorter, I was running on the stored energy in the batteries. So lights never went dim and other signs of non charging did not show? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philb Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 I guess you're right, you've re-made a dodgy connection somewhere. Regarding temperature: The colder the wire, the higher the conductivity, the stronger the magnetic field for a given voltage - so, if anything, it would cut in at a lower voltage. You said the charge indicator light went out then back on again as the revs increased - so it was getting quite a bit more than the battery voltage across it. You also said you activated it by hand (clearing any unusual mechanical load?), so that's not it either. Most importantly, good, you're back on the road. Try fixing a modern unit that easily! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Well done that man! None of 'The computer says it's all right' syndrome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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