Butch Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Is there anyone else still running a Mk1 meadows petrol engine as mine just won't stay cool, I have rebuilt the radiator, checked the pump, the ignition timing, the fan belts, checked that the rad pressurises, and theres no build up of sludge in the side plates. It also has radiator relief in it. It has always run hot when you put your foot down, but now it is hot all the time. The Mk2 meadows has a different cooling layout, so was this a bit of a problem from the beginning or just my engine ! :??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Might be unleaded fuel. Do you use an additive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butch Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Might be unleaded fuel. Do you use an additive? The fuel does make a differance as it burns too hot and the cooling system can't take the heat away quick enough from the liners, I have tried cutting the fuel down with parafin but this has no real effect, I need an additive that cuts 98 octain petrol down to 70 octain petrol if such stuff exists, Even when leaded was about i had problems,unleaded just made them worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 The fuel does make a differance as it burns too hot and the cooling system can't take the heat away quick enough from the liners, I have tried cutting the fuel down with parafin but this has no real effect, I need an additive that cuts 98 octain petrol down to 70 octain petrol if such stuff exists, Even when leaded was about i had problems,unleaded just made them worse. Butch, You did not mention the thermostat, it may be sticking, not much else that you can do. The petrol should not make that much difference, unless you were really working it hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butch Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Butch, You did not mention the thermostat, it may be sticking, not much else that you can do. The petrol should not make that much difference, unless you were really working it hard. Richard, I took the thermostats out long ago, on a different note you probley worked on this lorry as it belonged to 71 sigs at Bexleyheath and the A.B562 has 44 command workshop as doing most of the repairs between 1969 and 1989 when it was cast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Richard,I took the thermostats out long ago, on a different note you probley worked on this lorry as it belonged to 71 sigs at Bexleyheath and the A.B562 has 44 command workshop as doing most of the repairs between 1969 and 1989 when it was cast. Hi Butch, I may well have worked on it there were a lot still in service when I started there..............but don't blame me for the problem :-D Reason I mentioned the thermostats was that they are of a ported design to direct the flow, and with them removed, I think it could have an effect. There were other engines with similar 'stats. Did this problem appear after removing them? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Hi Butch, some of this may seem a bit basic....just a check list of my experiences really.. The only time I had a overheating problem with my Meadows that was not caused by a defect, was when I held on too long to a gear on long climbs, a bit of steam would escape, changing down increased the fan speed and very quickly stopped it. I found it best not to drive it like a Diesel, I know it hurts but keep the revs up a bit..... I agree with Richard's point about the thermostats, they do more than shutting off the rad. I had new thermostats fitted and the later water system parts, I think they're even more necessary with modern fuel. Have you rebuilt the radiator cap? The spring can rust badly and so lower the pressure, worth a look if you haven't, it should click quite positively when you turn it close it Check that the belts are exactly matched as any difference will not be too obvious but could cause slippage, as could a misaligned compressor. If you haven't already done it increase your anti freeze to 50% to lower the boiling point. An internally cracked or rusted exhaust manifold can cause symptoms similar to boiling water, so will pin hole corrosion in the passages between the exhaust valve and the inlet manifold hot spots......... trust me I know, been there done both of them! Check that you have the ignition timed on the correct flywheel mark, there are two, different for mag or coil. You could also try screwing a permanent pressure gauge into a spare connection to check the water pressure. Keep up the good work mate, Scammell fans need you...:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Are you running with the engine side covers on? I seem to remember someone saying that their cooling was dramatically improved with the covers in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butch Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Hi Butch, some of this may seem a bit basic....just a check list of my experiences really.. The only time I had a overheating problem with my Meadows that was not caused by a defect, was when I held on too long to a gear on long climbs, a bit of steam would escape, changing down increased the fan speed and very quickly stopped it. I found it best not to drive it like a Diesel, I know it hurts but keep the revs up a bit..... I agree with Richard's point about the thermostats, they do more than shutting off the rad. I had new thermostats fitted and the later water system parts, I think they're even more necessary with modern fuel. Have you rebuilt the radiator cap? The spring can rust badly and so lower the pressure, worth a look if you haven't, it should click quite positively when you turn it close it Check that the belts are exactly matched as any difference will not be too obvious but could cause slippage, as could a misaligned compressor. If you haven't already done it increase your anti freeze to 50% to lower the boiling point. An internally cracked or rusted exhaust manifold can cause symptoms similar to boiling water, so will pin hole corrosion in the passages between the exhaust valve and the inlet manifold hot spots......... trust me I know, been there done both of them! Check that you have the ignition timed on the correct flywheel mark, there are two, different for mag or coil. You could also try screwing a permanent pressure gauge into a spare connection to check the water pressure. Keep up the good work mate, Scammell fans need you...:thumbsup: Cheers for the tips guys I'II try putting the thermostats back in, your other suggestion about the exhaust manifold and exhaust valve passageways could also be worth a look [ deep joy ] On a lighter note Bernard you've been driving that L10 powered scammell too long and have forgot that a meadows dies in the first 100 yards of any hill climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butch Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Are you running with the engine side covers on?I seem to remember someone saying that their cooling was dramatically improved with the covers in place. Hi mate I've never run with the side covers on as the heat melts the plug leads and gives me vapour locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 On a lighter note Bernard you've been driving that L10 powered scammell too long and have forgot that a meadows dies in the first 100 yards of any hill climb. You may well be right there Gary.........:-D :-D My suggestion of fitting a water pressure gauge was to enable you to see if the pressure stays constant once warmed up and how long it takes to drop after stopping the engine. This should eliminate a lot of guess work regards cracked manifolds, leaky rad cap, vacuum relief valve etc.. In order to be easily read, the gauge only needs to read 50 psi or so and should be fitted in the cab. It is also possible that the water pump vanes have become eroded away reducing the volume of flow. A long shot but worth checking by feel that the oil cooler is working properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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