Starfire

Honestly, a Martian would be a cool project and a good toy to own. I'd like one That said, I wouldn't bother changing the engine for the reasons stated, as well as the fact that the B81 would also keep it original. Too many people convert vehicles to diesels without matching the power curve and rev range of the original engine and end up with something that is not well suited to use, with the added cost and effort of the conversion not offsetting the fuel savings anyway. Getting more power out of a B81 can be a bit tricky, as they are fairly uprated from the original B80 design already and tend to run quite hot, although I don't know what the radiator in a Martian is like. If I were looking to extract more power from one, without worrying too much about originality, I'd fit a small turbo pushing around 5 PSI through it. In any case, fitting an electric fuel pump and electronic ignition makes a big difference to the B series. Cheers, Terry

The procedure is detailed in the user handbook, workshop manual and service schedule but the short version is to relieve any hydraulic pressure (by working the brakes/steering without the engine running), and then pump them up to ~550 PSI with dry air or nitrogen. As a new Saracen owner, the first thing you will need is manuals. Get all of them that you can find. I can send you a digital copy of the service schedule (PM me your email address), but I don't have soft copies of the others. Cheers, Terry

Easy way to test - charge 'em up and then check them in a month or so. If they're still holding (most) of their charge, they should be fine. Don't forget that they should be checked and topped up regularly - no hydraulic pressure on a Saracen means no brakes! Cheers, Terry

This is why you buy a Saracen: It's about the most fun you can have with your pants on Cheers, Terry

If you want a viable investment, don't buy a Saracen. The bloody things eat time and money, especially if you want to do it up right and then use it. You will never make money from one. If you want a toy that will make you happy (as well as broke and with skinned knuckles), then you'll love a Saracen. To answer your question, most parts are reasonably easy to find, especially major mechanical components. Servicing parts and consumables, not so much, but you can work around them. Cheers, Terry

So Clive, when is your book coming out? I'd like to reserve an advanced copy, signed of course. Cheers, Terry

I don't have any specific info, but for any engine that has been sitting for a while that, supposedly, ran fine previously, you should be ok with an oil change and sticking a bit of oil/diesel/wd40 down the bore(s) and letting it soak for a little while before trying to start it. My BSA 30v was not a happy camper, but a fresh spark plug and clean oil pretty much made it a new machine. Good luck. Cheers, Terry

In that case, you want these two manuals from VMARS: [TABLE=class: cms_table, width: 777, align: left] [TR] [TD=width: 55]4091[/TD] [TD=width: 521]4091_AESP_5995-C-100-521_Cable_Assemblies_Repair.pdf[/TD] [TD=width: 144]Cable[/TD] [TD=width: 150]Clansman.Cable.Assemblies.Manufacture.and Repair.Techniques[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 55]4092[/TD] [TD=width: 521]4092_AESP_5995-C-110-521_Cable_Assemblies_Repair_Detail.pdf[/TD] [TD=width: 144]Cable[/TD] [TD=width: 150]Clansman.Cable.Assemblies.Manufacturing.and. Repair.Detail[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Hi Andy, The harness cables should be 12 core. I've got the pinout if you need it. Cheers, Terry

Looking good! Please keep updating as you make progress. Cheers, Terry

I'm afraid that I'm still none the wiser about this. The owner has taken it home, so I still haven't seen it, but he tells me that it has a pintle ring on it for towing, but no axel or wheel assemblies in place. Apparently there is a photo of them being assembled by workers in the Holden factory in Adelaide, during the war, but I am yet to see it. Cheers, Terry

I had a look today, and our spare engine is in rough shape, but the crank looks ok. Unfortunately, it's from one of the Diamond T wreckers and not a tank transporter though. I might have a lead on some reconditioned engines in the US, if you're willing to go down that road. Cheers, Terry

I really want to save that Pig, but the logistics would make it nearly impossible. Someone please give it a good home. Cheers, Terry

Welcome in. Cheers, Terry

Don't worry mate, the right one will come along eventually, although it's strange that you weren't given the opportunity to up your offer again. I personally would like a Saladin to go with my Saracen Cheers, Terry

The only thing that tells me it's a Polsten mount is the owner I've not seen it yet, but I'll be going to the museum on Saturday and will hopefully remember to get some more photos then. It looks naval to me too, although all the naval mounts I've seen are used standing up from a pedestal mount and have simple, flat shields. It's got me stumped, but I guess that we shall see. Cheers, Terry

I'm fairly sure that the Facebook one is an Australian variant, like this one made by GMH (General Motors Holden). The wheels appear to be from a Jeep. I believe that the owner of that one is a reenactor, so some artistic license is to be expected. [ATTACH=CONFIG]101743[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]101746[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]101745[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]101744[/ATTACH] Aside from naval mounts, I haven't found any single Polsten mounts with a shield, but it seems to be a lot of effort to go to for a flight of fancy... Cheers, Terry

Thanks Rick, A bit of Facebook stalking tends to indicate that Gordon's is a lot like the standard towed Polsten that one of our members has and is very different to the one in this thread: Cheers, Terry

Some more pics: Cheers, Terry

Hi All, One of our members has recently purchased what he believes to be a Polsten mount, in need of some TLC, but he hasn't been able to locate an ID plate for it, and I can't find anything even remotely resembling what he has: All of the single gun towed mounts I can find details for are much more lightly built and lack gun shields All of the single gun naval mounts have gun shields, but they are flat and have a different mounting setup I'll try and get some more photos and details, but does anyone have any more info about it? Cheers, Terry

I've got a feeling that the spare one that we have at the museum has a broken crank too. I'll have a look on the weekend. Cheers, Terry

I'll preface this by stating that I'm no expert. The photo is indeed a Mk 6. The Mk 2 and 3 are of the same vintage and are about the same value; the same goes for the 5 and 6 - the only difference being RFC. RFC has some plusses and minuses, but in a temperate climate it doesn't make much difference. Some people don't like the look of the shroud and remove it. You see a few that have had this done, but then they have terrible overheating issues in all but the coldest locations. From what I've seen (in Australia mind you), some people prefer the Mk 1-3, others the 5 and 6, and they all fetch about the same price, determined more by condition than variant. The earlier marks are lighter, faster and slightly better on fuel. Have better visibility and are a bit simpler. I like the Mk 5, but I'd slightly have preferred a Mk 6; especially in a 40 degree day Cheers, Terry

As for tyres, it's fairly easy to find new tyres in the right size. It's difficult to find the period correct run-flat tyres. Cheers, Terry

I actually prepared something similar for someone local, who was asking the same question: FYI, all Saracens started out as a Mk 1, 2 or 3 and were upgraded or changed over the course of their careers. Ours, being Hong Kong Saracens were in service for about 40 years. A lot can happen in that time and there were a lot of other modifications and upgrades to them as well (EMERs). Mk 1 - Original version. Has a smaller turret with 3 doors (the back is split like a barn door and opens to the sides). Early ones have some major mechanical differences. Mk 2 - Slightly larger 2 door turret. The back now folds down to form a seat. Mk 3 - Essentially a Mk 2 with reverse flow cooling for hot climates. Mk 4 - Did not enter service officially, but may be the official designation of the Saracen 88 sold to South Africa during the apartheid era. Mk 5 - Essentially a Mk 2 with more armour and bigger wheels. Many other differences. Mk 6 - Essentially a Mk 5 with reverse flow cooling. There are many differences between the different versions, but the following are the obvious ones. Green - Things that identify a Saracen as a Mk. 1-3 or a 5-6: Turret mounted smoke grenade launcher. Present on Mk 5 and 6, not on others. Vent covers. Square on Mk 5 and 6, round “mushrooms” on others. Fuel filler. Square on Mk 5 and 6, round on others. Escape hatches. Heavy plates with bolts on Mk 5 and 6, dished with a lip around it on others. Drivers vision. Vision blocks (bulletproof glass) on Mk 5 and 6, Side hatches do not open. Periscopes on others, side hatches open. Front mounted smoke grenade launcher. 4 barrels on Mk 5 and 6; 3 on others. Not a reliable indication as some Mk 5 and 6 have the earlier styled ones fitted. Blue - Things that identify a Saracen as a Mk 3 or 6 (Reverse Flow Cooling (RFC)). Rear vent pipes. Not present on RFC. Vent “trunks” under side windows. Not present on RFC. Rear engine covers. Raised “beehives” on RFC. Flat on others. Grille. Shrouded on RFC. Exposed on others. Cheers, Terry

The manual states to wash it in petrol, but I like a new filter with new oil. They aren't cheap though. Cheers, Terry