67burwood

That’s very disappointing, what’s the plan now?

Thanks for the pictures Richard, mine has had a rubber strip fitted in the same place and it also looks like the screen frame is part of the roof.

I believe they stock a lot of joes motor pool products and they might have spring hangers available.

Made good progress today, finished both top corners and started work on the main panel. Started like this🤨 And ended like this 😬 Finished the drivers top corner. Then set about making repair panels The extra clamps worked a treat, cheers Rob. Next up was stripping the outer skin to bare metal so I could see just how much needed to be replaced, using the woven pad preparation wheels from screwfix again, they just blast through paint and surface rust. Plenty of old filler as expected. Managed to get 3 sections replaced and 1 more cut out ready for next weekend. All welded and ground back. Extra large tub of filler required. Last section cut out before the self imposed 5pm curfew ( got to keep the neighbours happy )

AMD have increased there stock of Jeep parts.

I completely agree with the above statement, I have registered US import Jeeps which have had the data plates missing but as long as the chassis number is clearly stamped on the chassis it’s not been a problem. If your looking to buy a rolling chassis and collect the rest of the parts bit by bit then go for a GPW as the chassis number is stamped unlike the mb which has an alloy plate and is often rotted or missing.

Looks like it hit a land mine!! Then reversed for some more 😂 looking forward to more updates 👍

Thank you, any information or pictures would be helpful

Thanks Richard, a bit more practice on scrap metal required. Richard, can you remember when you restored a wot6 how the windscreen frame was attached to the roof section? None of the internal metal work is original on mine and it looks like the screen frame was patched in situ, ie I have no idea how it should go together and I will have to build as I see fit.

Did you have to buy the crowbar and pick axe or were they still in it when you bought it?

Epic explanation 👍 Every day is a learning curve

All advice greatly appreciated.

I feel your pain with the weather!! Roll on summer

Thank you Pierre. Calling all welders, there’s now two of us that need advice 😬

Today’s progress report.... Didn’t quite get as far as I had planned but half the job is just working out how to tackle the problem, the main problem being some of the cab has rotted so badly there’s nothing to copy 🤨 but once you know what road your going down it’s fairly straight forward 🤥 what’s left of the top rail, this isn’t original but it’s the only thing I have to copy More panel work to replace The rear supports are fairly solid with only one repair. Lined up the 3 new sections of frame and welded them in place Started making a repair section for one of the corners, it’s not finished yet but it’s nice and solid. Now I have a welding question?? and I know there are plenty of experienced welders on this forum Why does my open weld run fine ( ish ) But weld into a corner and it just don’t flow?? what am I doing wrong? Is it a gas or wire speed issue ???

Thank you for the complement, today’s process will be uploaded shortly.

Adrian Many thanks for your reply, I can only imagine how upset some people get with this hot topic !! the information provided by you has been extremely helpful, as they say “ knowledge is power “ , all hail Adrian 👍 Regards Seamus

Good tip, I am sure I will need it again.

And so it begins........... Finished work a bit early to day and got stuck in to rebuilding the cab first up build a suitable bench, 8ft scaffold boards work a treat Access the damage I decided to strengthen the frame and make sure everything lined up as best it could before removing any of the outer skin, there was so much flex in the frame I didn’t want to risk loosing the shape by going at it like a bull in a china shop. All the welds still need cleaning up but the lower frame is now solid. Attention is now turned to the upper frame, this section of cab has really suffered over the years and there are far more old bodged repairs than first expected. The top corners have previously been replaced and just haven’t stood the test of time, my plan is the replace these before the rusted skin is removed, this will allow me to follower the original curve or what’s left of it. Finally the whole top section has previously been replaced but again it knackered, I’ve decided to replace this as well as it is part of the frame, it’s a stepped section which looks simple enough but was still tough to fold and keep neat just using angle iron and a vice.

Welding gas advise needed !!! I have an Adams hobby gas 5% mix bottle at the moment but it’s just about empty, my local stockiest only has 20% mix in stock , will this be ok for thin welding? ie 1.2 mm

Cheers Rob, it will certainly be interesting 🤨

Well........... the plan is already in action !! ...... I’ve bought a massive sheet of steel, loads of cutting discs, loads of woven pad preparation wheels, a new shovel, broom and bigger scrap bucket!! But on a serious note, I am starting with the rear section as it’s similar in construction to the lower cab, its in bad shape but doesn’t look to fiddly just time consuming , full steam ahead this Saturday....

After many day’s, weeks and months of procrastinating!! I have finally pulled my finger out and started the roof 🎉🤨 A couple of hours later I had a little cry and thought WHY!! Those of you that have followed this blog from the beginning will remember just how rotten the lower section of the cab was......well..... the roof section doesn’t disappoint!! 🤔😭 To make life easier I decided to split the cab into 3 sections, in its current state it’s impossible to work on as it risks collapsing due to the extent of the rot, if any of you are familiar with Land Rover truck cabs then you will know that the roof section unbolts from the rear section and of course the windscreen is separate, the main problem I had was that it was difficult to see its original construction because of previous bodged repairs, some areas were bolted but also had repairs welded to the same sections. Even though the roof was ready to fall apart on its own, it still took 3-4 hours of gentle persuasion not to cause anymore damage than necessary not much left to work with but the timber support is in fair condition

This has the making of a good pub debate!! .....hang on......we can’t go to the pub....😢

I am happy to stand corrected, my information came from my peers and google. if the O stands for 1940 is at actually O or 0 ? 🤔