N.O.S.

Bouncing around discing? More like below after this Spring :cool2:

Good point Ray!

Garry, even if you sort the breather - once the gasket has leaked as bad as this and moved (and bits been pulled out by you ), you will not stop the leak until you remove cover and either use gasket or silicone sealer. Also if using a proper gasket :-X, I'd suggest you smear a little silicone on the cover side at least (I do both sides) as this will help to mitigate any distortion of the cover (they are often distorted by pulling setscrews up too tight in efforts to cure leaks ). Pull them up nice and gently and evenly. The manual says Differential Cover Bolts 33Nm or 25lb ft. And don't forget that reinforcing plate between bottom pair of setscrews.

So if it ain't CARNEGIE steel, don't buy it? There's trade protectionism for you :cool2:

Did us Limeys do the same thing I wonder?

Oh please no - not tank racing!

Deadline - just check that the chain block is a wartime unit. It probably won't affect you in the USA unless you are looking at a re-imported truck or 7 Set, but many of the French and other European sets had replacement chain blocks which look slightly different. The original ones had very American names on such as Yale or Princetown (OK well maybe not Princetown but you get the drift ).

With Matadors, the best oil is either black or 'oil'-coloured - if it is any shade of metallic (silver or aluminium) you've got problems :cool2:

NO! Do not try sealing from outside - it won't work for very long. Take the cover off and clean up and use silicone. Axle breather is mounted along top of axle, I think to the left of your last photo (but if not then to the right ). Simply unscrew and check by blowing through, clean if necessary. Do the front axle breather too! Good luck.

Hubs look OK! That is just the gasket for the diff tin cover plate leaking. Drain oil out (I think there is no drain plug - you have to undo the cover plate fasteners and let it drain out between cover and axle housing). as Tony says, check axle breather is not blocked! Not essential to use a proper gasket - you can use silicone gasket sealer to get an oil tight joint, apply sparingly and evenly to the tin cover, let it start to go off and then place on axle and tighten up. That's what I do anyway and it works fine. Gets tin hat and retreats to air raid shelter :-D

To answer your question, Deadline - they are a most amazingly useful bit of kit, and become increasingly sought-after. I could not even begin to list the countless uses for them, but suffice to say once you get one you'll wonder how you ever managed without. Novelty? More like Necessity! Get one at any price.:whistle:

Funny you should say that - for some reason I have two sets, and yes, I'm waiting till the prices go up :cool2:

If you ignore the drain / filler plug and breather, the axle can only leak from the hubs or the input shaft seal (pinion shaft) - behind the propshaft and brake drum on a MK. Sometimes straw baler twine will get picked up and wound into the seal. Exactly where on the axle is the oil coming from? Input shaft or wheel hubs? If it is the pinion seal - http://www.ekmpowershop5.com/ekmps/shops/greenmachines/bedfordmkmjfrontrear-axle-pinion-seal-2120-p.asp

Pretty good quality film. I'm surprised they sent out a motorcycle first to pull out the Peerless - they soon sent that packing. Then a car came to the rescue and they didn't want that either it seems.......

Yes Andy, I'm absolutely certain that's what happened :whistle:

Engine speed?

If you play that video backwards it shows the old girl in a much better light

Do not put anything in the rear axle to stop leaks - only way is to rectify the cause. Is the oil coming from the hub? This could be just the seal, or it could be bearings worn / out of adjustment causing play in hub. I recently had an oil thrower come loose and move, allowing a very slight leak of oil to gradually cover the brake linings over time instead of weeping harmlessly from the hub drain hole. Your description 'I feel the bottom and bit of material...' sounds like a drain plug gasket - is this what you mean? A little bit of Silly Cone sealer will stop that. If you need seals and or oil thrower they are cheap - try Kia Motors in Kent - http://www.bedfordparts.co.uk/ They have them in stock and I'm sure can post to Iceland. Recommend you check bearings if you are planning a long expedition!

I would imagine this has come about as much by the logistical problems of managing a system of consistent tests on older vehicles and 'fitting in' with the increasingly automated MOT system, as any rights or wrongs or sensibility issues That is no reflection of any view I might have on the subject. :readpaper:

If the display put on by Chris and the ground crew at Damyns Hall is anything to go by it should be excellent. Sadly I can't get there

Thanks! I sort of guessed it might be a turn signal device but it looked at bit 'over-engineered'

Ron - what is the contraption on the passenger door?

Whenever I did a site investigation work report the computer spellchecker would automatically change my BOREHOLE to BROTHEL.

In the great scheme of things the traditional gamekeeper played a big part in controlling numbers of predatory birds, which had a beneficial effect on the song/garden bird population. They (the gamekeepers) are now a dying breed themselves and the results around here are very noticeable. So in a way you could argue the balance is actually approaching a natural one - it was 'controlled' by man for a long time. Mind you I know which way I'd like it balanced!

And I fell right into it.......:blush: