Richard Farrant

A Velocette, and it looks like an Australian military number

Hi Andrew, Would that have been at Wealden Woodlands ? Crikey, it seems a lifetime ago! Welcome to the forum. regards, Richard

Hi Ray, A fascinating story, thanks. It is amazing what you can still find out in your country. As for the farmer leaving things where he left them, I have seen that over here, so nothing new! Just to elaborate on the MB thing. Willys designed the jeep and designated that model as an MB (earlier version was MA), then Ford were instructed by the US govt to build them as well, slight manufacturing differences on parts but interchangable. The Ford was a GPW. That is the short story regards, Richard

no no ..........wrong continent, Tony. Mandurama is a little place near Bathurst, NSW

Surely you have heard of a Willys MB ?

Hi all, 2013 Annual Corowa Swim-In &Military Vehicle Gathering, Corowa, NSW, Australia The latest KVE Newsletter with all the up to date information on the 2013Corowa Swim-In is now being sent out to those on the KVE database. If you are not on the database, or do not receive it, please email Jan at kveinc@optusnet.com.au for your copy. More information to follow ....... regards, Richard Farrant KVE Committee Member and Newsletter Editor

Hi Ray, That jeep looks very familiar, did you find it at Mandurama? As I think that I have come across it in my travels.

I assume you have already tried backing the brake adjusters off?

If you get the chassis blasted, make sure that you get paint in all the corners. The chap who does my blasting has one of those spray guns that draws paint from a bucket, this way he can turn the gun everyway and whichway to ensure good coverage. I use a good quality Chassis Black, which is what it says, check out your local auto paint supplier. You can then overcoat this with your finish coat of olive drab or what ever.

The chap in that link says he is having trouble with paint lifting off, no matter who the supplier is, as I understand it. Well as I regularly use, paint on restoration work, I have not had this problem and have had no issues with any of the different makes used for a good many years. These include Firwood, International and HMG. Always use a semi-matt finish and once cured and weathered in, it looses its sheen and goes slightly more matt, which is good. Very durable and any oil on it can be cleaned off without it leaving any marks on the paint.

As the scan of the actual page is shown, it can be zoomed up to read from so not a real problem. The small ads at the back of each issue make interesting reading as well, plus all the larger adverts.

The Commercial Motor magazine has been going since 1905. They have just put their archives online with a search engine. It works very well and I found an article that I remembered from the early 60's, straight away. Might be useful for those with vintage lorries looking for info. http://archive.commercialmotor.com/

I thought it was only a Pioneer Sergeant who was allowed a beard in the British Army........ a long tradition thing.

That is the yard of Derek Linch Haulage.

Not very accurate, the QL was not into production until Feb. 1941, and AEC was not likely to have been used on Fighters, normally confined to Bombers because of their tank capacities.

Hi Jules, Not knowing what oil you might have in the gearbox and for how long it has been in there, makes it difficult to comment, but my first thought is water could be present, which may well be condensation if not been changed for a long time.

and he could not name any of them ....... even the M151 he called a "jeep".

There is a guy who has been at Beltring for last few years with one of these, or similar. He runs a service from the stalls moving heavy items that people have bought. He usually has an Official Vehicle sign on the vehicle, so maybe someone from W&P might know him.

Hi Hoppy, If both surfaces were skimmed, and absolutely true, then the gasket should have sealed, unless there was a small "foreign body" trapped between the gasket, or the head was not pulled down in the correct tightening pattern. Previous to the rebuild, how was the engine running, and leaking problems then?

Difficult to judge weight here, but is this the backpack tank for a British "Lifebuoy" flamethrower?

Hoppy, You did not say whether the head was held down with bolts or studs. If bolts, then years of dismantling may have worn the threads in the block a bit and coolant is seeping up. Best solution is to replace all bolts with studs (not neccessarily authentic, but a solution to a problem), using a pipe sealer or similar on the threads to keep the coolant at bay.

At a guess, so two men can carry a roll of barbed wire?

I suspect from what you have told us, that there might have been residual coolant in the exhaust system after you renewed the head gasket, and also a water still present in the engine, ie. oil filter, unless you renewed it again. I can recommend a very good sealant to put in the coolant called K-Seal, usually available in motor factors. Might be worth trying this and keeping an eye on things. If it still persists, then further investigation might be necessary. Best of luck.

Hi mate, The adjustable rams were on early models, sorry for confusion there. Now, I have a schematic diagram of a Mk2 steering circuit, not sure if it is identical to a Mk3, too long ago since working on them. It has Orbitrol unit. To my mind Mk2 diagram suggests it is a spool valve with one selector control, and I recall it was a simpler set up than the Mk1. on a Mk2, for interest; Pressure relief valve, non adjustable and set at 1750psi No idea about a manual, the army workshop manual was in the EMER system, but as the machine was also sold in civilian market, might be worth advertising in the Plant & Machinery magazine.

Hoppy, Does your engine have studs or bolts holding the head on? Could be coolant leaking past the threads and into the combustion chamber, or a block cracked in the inlet port area.