Richard Farrant

The middle crane, the Hydra Husky, had an AEC 505 engine in it, the far one, the Coles 315M had a Cummins V8. I did most of the crane testing and calibrating in the area that our REME workshops covered and started off on the AEC/Coles Mk4, how technology moved on in the safe load indicator systems from the old mechanical set up of the Mk4 and Mk5. I learnt a lot over the years.

I can imagine the look on your faces when seeing that gear ........ absolute magic, looks like you are starting the year off well. Great stuff!

Not a happy one either, he spent hours / days / weeks weaving that web

Hi Jack, To stop the engine you have to lift the accelerator pedal up. I recall hooking your toe under the pedal. I think the chassis number is at the front of the nearside chassis rail. Another thread on here currently show the location.

Howard, I think it will go on the earth terminal, as the feed to earth only happens when switch is operated. Failing that, a panel warning lamp can be attached across left and right terminals on the switch.

A good friend of mine in those photos. That place is fascinating, they were working on an engine for another Matilda tank when I visited a couple of years ago.

As David Herbert has observed and I also agree, it is a Loyd Carrier and it is sitting on a Sentinel 2 ton trailer.

Very nice! Well done, can't wait to see the finished vehicle. regards, Richard

Rob, I recall there was an army plate with rego number, etc on nearside of chassis, either under the cab or just behind it. About 5 inches long by about 3 high.

Hi Steve, I worked on Ferrets when they were in service and occasionally servo fitted versions came in to Workshops. According to EMER's, only the Mk2/6 mounted with Vigilant missiles, and Mk2/7 (a Mk2/6 with Vigilant gear removed) was fitted with a servo (apart from Mk4 of course). I have a feeling some of the up-armoured Ferrets could have been equipped with servos during a base overhaul as I never worked on a Vigilant version. So, it was the extra weight as to why the servo was fitted. To be honest I noticed little difference in stopping distance between those fitted with a servo and those without. It will not improve the brakes, same size linings and wheel cylinders, just reduces effort required from driver. I will say, that you have to run a pipe from master cylinder across under the gearbox, up to the servo, which is mounted above the generator. It has long hoses so it can be removed for access, without breaking in to the brake lines. This pipe is about 8+ feet long as I recall, having changed one for a private owner, and as he did not want the gearbox removed to do it, it was a tricky job ensuring the pipe was safely located. There is a lot of changes required in the pipework I think and it could mean a bit of stripping to access. Another issue, the servo you have, is it the correct one for a Mk2? Reason I say is because a Mk4 uses mineral oil as fluid and a Mk2 has synthetic brake fluid, seals will not be compatible if used with wrong fluid. Normally any brake components designed for mineral oil, have a bright green tag or paint mark on them. regards, Richard

Hi Guy, You are quite correct that the lip on the spacer ring is to prevent the lip from moving out under pressure. There are also several thicknesses of ring to ensure the seal is retained by the circlip securely. The correct seal was made by George Angus, under the GACO name and bore the number MIS112 ....... but, I recall when working in REME workshops that we had some seals come up for jobs, marked correctly as MIS112, but shaped different on the outside so that the support spacer did not fit in. Investigations found there were two versions, I think there may be another mark on the seal to denote. It is a common size Imperial seal and I recall may have been used on Land Rovers as well. I think it was a US based owner who came up with the John Deere number, but it probably costs more and the lack of lip support could mean oil loss at certain point of time if internal pressure was high. Some years ago, I made enquiries with my local bearing supplier and a senior guy there had previous experience with seals and bearing supplied for Defence equipment. He went to lengths to find the correct GACO MIS112 seals, although my stock is now depleted. The next time I have to do one, I will get a new support ring machined to fit an available seal (without dirt lip), to ensure reliability. GACO are now owned by Freudenberg Seals. regards, Richard

They would not have got this far without the knowledge and assistance from the local Matilda guru, Matt McMahon. I note he did not get a mention in their story.

Hi Richard, Welcome to the forum. Would you happen to have bought the RL from Kent by chance? regards, Richard

Hi Gwyn, It is possible I may have missed any lettering on the iron work, but the AWM's Grit has not stood outside for 95 years with numerous coats of paint, and as such is a pristine example. Metal work inside might offer more proof as I recall little paint in there, but rust of course. Might be able to get another look next week as it is less than 2 miles away.

Hi Gwyn, I took a few photos today of the Ashford MkIV with my phone. Light was not good, but it shows a few things that I have mentioned, stress fractures in the sides behind RH front track idler, can be seen down the left hand band of white paint. This is due to rust building up on the inside between the riveted joint and putting increasing pressure on the plate for many years. Another photo of along the bottom can be seen of short lengths of steel angle, either bolted or riveted to the sides, there is about half an inch of rust build up that is forcing the angles away from the sides. The door at the rear is very small as can be seen here. There is no chance of seeing any steelworks name on the steel angle due to the amount of paint.

It will be pitch black in there and the door on the rear is not very large and who ever is holding the camera will block out any available daylight. Ideally you need a lamp on the camera. regards, Richard

I find the easiest way to fit a new harness is start at the instrument panel / switches, then through to regulator and fuse box then radiate out to lights. I thought the wire up the steering column to horn button was a separate one with a bullet connecter at lower end to connect to harness.

This is a common problem, you can only adjust the pedal linkage with 1st gear engaged as that is the gear with least free movement. All other gears will come right, providing busbar heights are correct.

I remember all the engine failures as the Workshops I was employed in, was one of the designated engine rebuild centres, mainly dealing with Bedford and Land Rover types. I cannot recollect a lot of the details as I was on heavy vehicle work at the time, but pistons seizing on one cylinder, heater plugs melting, were some symptoms. Apparently the military 2.5 was the only normal aspirated version, all other users had the turbo version. Defective engines were stripped and thoroughly examined. Land Rover engineers were on site monitoring the work and making changes, then putting in the test house for load test to check. I seem to think that Santana pistons were used at one point, then the dipstick markings were accurately measured and remarked. I think eventually Land Rover took responsibility and rebuilt all the engines themselves under Op. Terry. There was a mod done to the vehicle at the time regarding an engine breather pipe, some clever person at LR designed it to feed to the inlet side of the dry air cleaner, so it clogged it up, the mod moved the pipe to the engine side of the filter.

The cab certainly looks Leyland

This is the oil feed to the two speed generator gears. Try Richard Banister on 01797 253211, he is a specialist in RR B range spares as well as all things Ferret. regards, Richard

Good work :thumbsup:

Sending you a PM

Hi, Don't remove that one, special precautions needed there, and I doubt very much that this will help you. Do you have the EMEI for the Ferret? regards, Richard

Hi mate, Looking at the adjusters, the condition of the bands looks good. When you said removal of side plate, did you mean the large plate with the selector lever on it?