bonnie_scott

Hi Iain, good luck with removing the old starter (if you haven't done so all ready). I found the top cap screw to be a real pig of a job..... A stuck hi - lo range lever is a common theme with these. On mine it was the lever mechanism mounted on top of the lt85 gearbox that was the problem, not the connection on the transfer box. I just removed the split pins on the connecting rods, undid the four bolts holding the mechanism and took it to the bench to be stripped down. If I get a chance tomorrow I'll post the exploded pic from the parts manual which shows how it all fits together. Make sure you mark the position of the lever fitted to the end of the shaft before you remove it otherwise aligning it correctly again is another unhappy job.... cheers Julian

Hi Iain, my experience has been that many of the 'standard' V8 110 parts fit the Snatch. As the previous poster has said the rear propshaft is 'standard'. Might be worth having a look at the other various bits around the rear as the reason for the bent propshaft is likely to be either the MoD (according to Withams) or Withams according to some who have been there lifting the vehicle and moving it around on a forklift. Think it was a Panhard rod I had that was also bent. along with bit of chassis and the rear cross member. There are various new or recon V8 starters that will fit on e-bay. I got an exmod one for around £50 notes. What's wrong with yours? I replaced mine while I had the gearbox out and there was obvious damage to the ring gear and wear on the starter teeth. However it had an intermittent fault that re-occured on the new one and with some help from the EMLRA forum which I discovered was down to a poor earth. The earth from your battery (12v) under the passenger seat? connects to the side of the gearbox. This might be need a clean as it seems to be common for all ex Iraq Snatches to have gearboxes covered in well set concrete (otherwise known as Iraqi mud). It was suggested to me that I ran a cable from the battery negative direct to the starter e.g a jump lead from the battery to one of the bolts securing the starter. All my problems vanished, showing that it was an earthing problem. Might be worth a shot..... There have been a few threads on the EMLRA forum (http://www.emlra.org) so might be worth joining that as well. Look forward to hearing how you get on. Cheers Julian

don't know if this helps as i haven't looked in detail at it, but the link should download the technical manual (452 pages) for the M939 series of trucks. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&ved=0CJIBEBYwATgK&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.everyspec.com%2FARMY%2FTM-Tech-Manual%2Fdownload.php%3Fspec%3DTM_9-2320-272-10.009350.PDF&ei=bN_PT_XuJcbY8QOTiP3HDA&usg=AFQjCNEkcqnQMbTRzN3dEeEAH7kAuKUFNA&sig2=qVOhdH8r_RF8r7JImgGa6g if it doesn't work pm me with your e-mail address and i'll try and send a copy (it's about 8 meg so might be difficult to send) cheers, Julian

hi, a quick google came up with the following refs for the NHC 250 cummins, but fitted to an M812 truck Baldwin oil P999 Baldwin fuel PF316 Fleetguard oil LF516 Fleetguard fuel FS1201 or FS19553(upgrade) might at least be worth a check against fleetguard to see what they say these fit :-)

I did look into this some years ago and was advised that to be legal I would need the old HGV class 2 as the stalwart had more than 2 axles allowed on a Class 3 license. If you follow this through, it would mean that you now need a Class C license (which is a combined replacement for the old HGV3 and HGV2). This would also fit with the fact that the stalwart weights 9 tonnes and so exceeds the weight limit for the C1 which many people have 'grandfather' rights to. However I would be happy to be corrected as there seems to be specials rules for large good type vehicles which aren't used to carry anything. And I for one would be really happy to be advised that there is some sort of get out clause for the Stalwart (and others of the alvis 6 wheel family)

not jealous at all, it was allegedly 26 degrees in the highlands of Scotland today so just need some sand :-D looking forward to the next installment

Alistair, you've been off the radar for a wee while now I just wondered if there was any further progress Julian

Greeting from a fellow highlander (even though Caithness is quite flat really). Nice choice, looking forward to seeing some pics ;-)

:dancinggirls::dancinggirls: It's sorted!!!!! Thanks for all the replies and comments :tup:: And particular thanks to Nudge for his top tip on the jump lead/temporary earth :saluting: Did as suggested and she tunrned over first time no problem. Then I might have been a bit naughty :whistle: and gave her some choke and turned over a couple of times more and then the beast roared Just keep my fingers crossed that the interference problem raised by Mr Dunsfold doesn't raise it's head. :eek: P.s. Yes I am also trying for the record of the most smileys in a posting;)

Hi Nudge, fitted the starter first and tested this (obviously with no load on it) and it appeared to work fine. Cheers

Hi Nudge & Dunsfold, I've had so many little hassles with this along the way that I hadn't got any further than refitting the flywheel, before testing. As the engine had needed a little choke to start I reasoned that just turning it over briefly wouldn't be enough to start it. Given the hassle of refitting the gearbox (Santana LT85) with just a small hole through the floor, the armoured floor doesn't appear to be easily removable without taking the rear body back, I wasn't going to refit and then find a problem . Looking at it, the ring gear does clear the casting on the starter that hold the central shaft. However if Dunsfold is right and the ring gear is marginally larger than it's meant to be I guess the pinion could get stuck as the gears wouldn't mesh properly. I was going to hunt around various cars I have to see if I could steal an earth strap in reasonable condition to see if that solves the problem. Nudge - Halfords would be good, but I find the 220 mile round trip a bit tedious The Landy is not at the house so I was going to drop by tomorrow with the camera to take some pictures and measurements of the stuffed starter to see if any of you knowledgeable people on the forum could identify the specific one I'm looking for as I do know the pinion gear on the starter does look different. Dunsfold, I'm really hoping the ring gear doesn't foul the bellhousing as I really just might begin to get miffed if I fix this problem (on top of all the others so far) only to find another - Argh. Thanks again, Julian

Thanks again for your help with this. I's rather not start doing things with the engine. Partly because I know it was going really well before I started on the gearbox, and partly as it the full military shielded ignition system...... The earth strap is a new one on me. wasn't one on there before..... Do I just need a decent cable an run one end from the lower cap head screw? (top one is the one I had all the hassle with and it a pig to get at) and bolt to a nice shiny bit of the chassis member? I was doing some surfing earlier and there does seem to be an official earth lead for the V8 block (Cable, engine to earth lead early V8 - PRC3625 allegedly). Any idea where this would/should be fixed to the block? I've done some digging in my Filling (well sort of) system and found that the Ring Gear was part number 611323 and the re-con starter was meant to be RTC6061N. Bearing in mind your earlier comments, this did seem to be the right?? combination for the Carb fed, low compression 3500 cc V8 favoured by the MoD.... Cheers, Julian

Thanks for the speedy response Hmmm, The ring gear is on the side closest to the engine, if fitted the other way round the pinion gear would be striking a flat surface, so I'm hoping I have got it the right way round. However I am beginning to regret not taking an abundance of pictures along the way as it's taken longer then expected and my memory has never been that great. Both the ring gear and the pinion are what I would call straight cut but as far as I can see from underneath with a torch they do appear to mesh, but I was hoping that the wisdom of the forum might tell me if I have got the wrong starter. All I can say is that the ring gear was supplied to the part number from a LR parts manual dated 87-88 and this is a 93 vehicle and appeared to match visually with the one I removed (where it still had teeth anyway). But stranger things have happened. Go juice in the battery, It did have enough to start the Landy fine before I started this epic job (well to me it's epic) even if it's not up the standard of many of the excellent restorations on the forum, and the battery looks in good nick. Can only guess at the reason for the damage to the ring gear, The members H Sqd of 1 RTR wanting to make a sharp exit from downtown Basra was my best guess. Finally, I can turn the Flywheel by hand, takes a bit of effort and you can feel the resistance of the pistons but I have plenty of dead weight to help overcome the inertia when pulling/hanging downward. The engine ran really sweetly before I started it was unpleasant noises from the gearbox under load that went away when coasting, that started me down the path of a 'new' gearbox. Starter/ring gear issues found on removal.

Just when you feel you are making progress your Landy goes and knocks you down again :cry: In what seems a epic trial I have finally started re-assembly of the gearbox and associated bits on my Snatch. One of the problems had been a badly chewed up ring gear and very worn pinion(?) on the starter. After a pig of a job getting the starter off I have just fitted an (allegedly) recondition ex-military V8 one bought off flea bay. I had cleaned all the connections and when tested it worked fine, flinging the pinion out with gusto and spinning nicely. So next job, fitted the flywheel with new ring gear. Ever the pessimist I have just tried to turn the old girl (yep being restrained at this point) over to confirm that the starter engaged with the ring gear OK. After a very momentary movement things came to a halt with the (so called) click of death. Went and had a look and the pinion gear was still engaged so turned the flywheel by hand (not easy) and it released. Checked the juice in the battery plenty there (or at least wasn't taking much charge) and tried again, same result small movement, then stop, then click click click. Freed it off again and thought third time lucky (I do sometime swing wildly over to full optimistic mode) only to have my hopes dashed once again. I have had a look at where the pinion was engaging and no evidence of damage. I have noted that the 'new' starter has a different shaped pinion gear, the older one had slightly beveled (?) ends and also a crank/kink in the end, presumably to help engagement. Also once removed I discovered the old one was manufactured by Magnetti Marreli (sp) and the new one is a Lucas (hopefully freshly recondition with new supplies of the magic smoke). Looking about the web there seems to be lots of mentions of poor earth, To be honest I can't tell where this is earthed to as there are three wires to one threaded connection on the solenoid (?) which are the live direct from the battery, a wire that goes off to the alternator and what I think is one half of the circuit for the switch from the ignition. The only other wire going to the solenoid is a bayonet/push fit and is I think the other part of the switch circuit. There is a short lead from one end of the starter to the solenoid, which if I were to guess, I would think was the earth (via the body of the starter mating to the engine) Apologies for my attempts at war and peace, but I just wanted the lay the problem out as clearly as possible. Any/all help/suggestions (please keep em polite;)) are greatly appreciated. Now off to lie down in a darkened room, Julian

Apologies Robin, as you say a bit more detail always helps to make sure the advice is appropriate. The exhaust in question is on my V8 Landrover Snatch. I had to take the middle two sections out to remove the gearbox and transfer box. Now I'm finally in a position to start re-assembly I was wondering whether to use any gloop on the joint. Welded joints, 'fraid I can't weld been on my to do list for years so must sort that sometime. Also give that I if I've done something wrong I might have to take it all off again, I was hoping to keep it 'standard'. I've resisted taking the downpipes off as it all looks too rusted/seized so I would hope to avoid touching them if I had to take it to bits and at least the standard approach should mean I can avoid fiddling with these in the future if need be. Cheers, Julian

Just about to re-assemble some bit of exhaust after cleaning and painting (so not new) and just wondered whether it is better to use some exhaust jointing paste or just to fit dry. Someone invented it, so it must be a good idea - right? or is my ever present cynicism right to think it help exhaust companies/fitters boost sales making it more difficult to disassemble to replace just one section........ Any thoughts?

Found this on another Forum and thought it might be of interests to those with a nautical bent..... 'Fraid I didn't watch too much but the first ship featured is one of the two largest in the German Navy - Type 702 Berlin class replenishment ship FGS Frankfurt-Am-Main (A1412). Share and Enjoy :-D

Now the dust has settled I was wondering if anyone got any goodies at the last Withams Sale. Sad I know, but living this far north, this is the closest I can get to having any involvement

good luck I hope everything goes ok and fixes the issue......

Hi Rob, was interested to get some more info and an early peek at what your finished item would like like. Is it officially called the QF 3.7 inch mountain howitzer as detailed on this page of wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QF_3.7_inch_Mountain_Howitzer Cheers, Julian

Boils are for the poor common folk, if yer posh you have a subcutaneous cyst -

Darn, trying to do a bit of surreptitious googling and fourth suggestion down is a link to another thread of Clive's conundrums..... Also disregarding the disinformation linked to the image..... Unfortunately my shelves are filled with the wrong sort of books for this. Off for another trawl of the www

A grip for two people to carry a casualty? i.e. to make a seat between two people for the casualty....

Those little jackets seem to be this seasons must have for every lamb about the field Is this a new thing, as I've only just started to see them? Julian

Yep, spot on, it's Paul's Loyd that is featured in the mag :-)