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timbo

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  1. timbo
    http://www.rm1872.org.uk/Nitrogen-Accumulator-Charger.html Obviously make sure you check the manual for the pressures for Saracen..!
  2. timbo
    Phil Dont know about the Cent but the Sabre should not be a problem. I would agree with David re the pulse charger - they are very good. Tim
  3. timbo
    Ditto that - Jon P recently told me about a pipe bursting on a Saladin while he was looking directly at it - queue a faceful of fluid at very high pressure! Luckily Jon is a glasses wearer or the outcome could have been very much worse..not to be messed with!
  4. timbo
    Bob Sorry to have missed you on Saturday - didnt realise you were there until Andy Ferretkitt said you'd been there - had I spotted you we would have insisted on force feeding you tea and biccies! Had a great weekend - well done and thankyou to all the organisers. Sabre has been a pain in the a**e recently meaning I had not been able to tidy it up pre show as I would have liked. It ran pretty much faultlessly on both days though so cant complain too much! Tim
  5. timbo
    Have you read the Patrick Bishop book Bob - Target Tirpitz very good indeed. Bloody heroes every one of 'em....
  6. timbo
    RIP Mario 'Blobby' Aliperti - passed away last month - a true legend. If any of you knew him the funeral is 18th July at 1.30pm at East Hampstead Crematorium Bracknell. A big turnout is expected!
  7. timbo
    Seb That being the case i am sure you will find that is the problem. Soak it in wd or diesel for a while first and keep working it a bit at a time til it frees off. I would be surprised if it is an internal problem unless it has got water inside. Tim
  8. timbo
    Seb When you say top selector do you mean the forward/ reverse lever? If so are you sure it isnt just stuck with lack of use? I have found they tend to go rusty quickly which makes selection difficult. Remove the linkage then you should be able to put a drift on the opposite end of the selector bar and gently tap it out so that as much of the bar as possible is exposed. Then use wire wool / wire brush and plenty of WD40 and keep working it backwards and forwards and you should find it frees off... Tim
  9. timbo
    Seb Was it just a clutch unit you need ? If so, I am sure I have a couple knocking about... Cheers Tim
  10. timbo
    Well done all very satisfying.... But did you get the plug out..!?
  11. timbo
    Mike Firstly is the cold start lever stuck in the on position (ie pushed over to the left towards the driver)? If not then if it were me I would whip the decks off (if not already) remove the carb, and give it a general poke/ clean to see what that does. In my experience once you have accepted the need to remove the decks it is not so big a job, and makes everything hugely easier.... Look forward to hearing progress. Tim
  12. timbo
    Just be careful with that 25lbr box !!!
  13. timbo
    Mike Is your fuel pump working? It should make a ticking noise when you put the engine on. This should start off quite rapid and then slow a little as the fuel comes through. The other easy check is the fuel filter in the rear right of the fighting compartment. Tim
  14. timbo
    I just use the blue stuff in approx a 50/50 mix....
  15. timbo
    Agree with Chris on this one Im afraid, it is only 4 bolts and will be quicker in the long run. And do them up flippin tight. You can then sort the fan properly too. Dont forget to tension the fanbelt. There is no tensioner mechanism you just pull the fan upwards on its bolts until it is reasonably tight (but not TOO tight as that knckrs the bearings). Taking the fan pulleys off has always been very hard work whenever I've done it
  16. timbo
    I suspect you need the type of flare nut/ crowfoot that can be driven by a 3/8 drive, rather than a spanner. You may find you cant get the angle on the spanner to move it, esp as no 1 is quite cramped.
  17. timbo
    Ahhh, thanks Richard..! So there is no need to worry about these when checking the timing then? And I guess any suitable pipe will do as a replacement... Tim
  18. timbo
    From recollection these are the vacuum pipes for the dizzy. I guess for this reason they are 'hard walled' rather than flexi rubber. I dont think they are especially critical but may throw out the timing at certain revs?
  19. timbo
    Foaming oven cleaner? Have found it can be quite effective.
  20. timbo
    Just checked and cant see the part number in any of my diagrams. I just used polyester reinforced silicone hose, 50mm id if I remember correctly. Seems to have done the job for last year or so.... Cheers Tim
  21. timbo
    Done!
  22. timbo
    Terry Have you spoken to Jon P? He would be my first port of call... Cheers Tim
  23. timbo
    I think the derating was done to prevent wear to the gearbox brake bands which was being experienced at the higher ratings. Presumably less of an issue for private owners due to lower mileage and less aggressive usage (ahem!)... Can something similar be done with the Perkins in the Stormer?
  24. timbo
    Banisters for me too but good to know there are plenty of suppliers out there... Still working great especially now I have degreased the steering discs! I had a minor leak from the left hand final drive seal on the inside. It only lost about 50ml over the course of last season so I have decided to leave it for a winter job. It seems to have slowed down for the moment anyway!
  25. timbo
    Could be the accident at Lanlivery steam fair a couple of years ago, when a young girl was tragically killed by a reversing Land Rover. There were witnesses who stated they saw the driver exit the vehicle and check behind him before moving but in the meantime the girl stopped to look at a fairground attraction and was sadly killed. The inquest attached no blame to the driver and put it down to being an unbelievably tragic accident.
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