Ron

You mention Jeep records Jenk. My own Jeep has always been configured and marked as British and for 30 years the 'M' number was purely fictitious. But through this forum, I found a guy who is keeping a register of British Jeeps and through him and the records at Kew, I now have it's correct M number. Thank God for the British way!   Ron

All advice gratefully received Chris. I'm going to clamp my truing jig to my surface plate and use two magnetically held clocks against the main shafts and just see what I've got. I've got quite a large copper knocker!!!  Ron

PS the pry bars is a good tip!

Hi Chris, I've got a couple of mates with Myford lathes which will take the CO flywheel radius. So that is an option. It's just a challenge to have a go myself. I've been checking on line and youtube, and I believe that any final truing of the flywheels is done after the nuts are fully tightened by knocking the flywheels with a heavy brass or lead hammer. Then there is the process of getting the wheels parallel with each other by squeezing together in a vice or a wedge to widen them. All a learning curve for me, and if it all goes wrong it will be down to Ainsley the engine guy again.  Ron 

Rik yes I've made a crank truing jig, built to Jan's sizes for a RE crank. The trouble with these is that they have separate rollers in cages and not worth taking the outers out of the cases for just this job. I'm quite looking forward to checking it now. Ron

PS I guess the V block with main bearings is ok if you just want to check the flywheels, but I want to run clocks on the shafts too.

PS Lex. My parts list quotes a trip speedo but it looks to be deleted by the non panel tank model.  Ron

I certainly couldn't use my saddle as a reference Rik. But Steve's, probable original and Andrews definite original with rotten bungies still attached are good enough for me. Plus I really should have at least one bungie saddle in the shed!  🙂 Ron 

In view of my determination to try and get my rebuilt engine to run smoother and because we're in Tier 4. I've started to pull it out again. Tank and primary side removed this afternoon. 

Ron

I saw your ebay link Chris. Thanks! Nice to know that we can just buy the bungies. As Rik just pointed out, it could well be academic anyway as we can't always rely on our parts lists. But with the evidence we have so far, I'm convinced that our 1940 contracts were still fitted with the Lycette bungie saddles.  Ron

Cheers Steve. As you say Lex, easier to get them ready made.  Ron

Well done Lex.  Ron

Yes we both need bungies Steve. Are you on the case to order/make some?  Ron

Ah hang on Lex. Your parts list quotes 35/G3/F60 with bungies. My list quotes the same number with springs. I'm now thinking that the springs they are referring too are in fact the two main coil springs. They just don't mention the bungies separately. In that case I've read it wrongly. 

Andrew Honychurch's original wreck had bungies.  Ron

I just counted the slots on Steve's saddle before my last post =14.  Ron 

Regarding the saddle, there is also another plate further back from the front plate to convert the 6 short springs into 14 longer ones.  Ron

The 3HW normal tin chaincase has a bracket that sits under the battery tray. But the earlier ally cases have two 1/2" long tube spacers. 

Happy new year.  Ron

For my G3 contract C5247 frames 845-4844 it has the springs. Ron

Chris at that time 1939, they were still producing several different civilian models all using that same frame, so the WD numbers won't follow in sequence.

Another piece of information I can divulge is regarding one of the contracts that you mention ie C4631. By stroke of luck, there's a guy I've communicated with who's granddad was a WD motorcyclist who was issued with a 3SW and who kept a complete log, which included frame/eng/census numbers. From this log and the known census numbers in O&M, I have been able to work out the complete numbers, which are Frames TL 12771-13070 and Engines 3SW 25741-26040. (I've passed this on to Chris Orchard for hopeful inclusion in a future revision (in the meantime I've hand written it in mine).

This would indicate to me that your frame is earlier ie Contract C3398 or C3360. The census numbers are shown but not the frame numbers and also I can only assume that all the contracts are shown as these probably came from the Chillwell records and not from the bombed Triumph offices. 

So in my opinion, in view of the current information, it's a case of pick a number. from those 244.   Ron

Someone has added the side pieces to that mudguard. Originally during the war there would not have been a number plate, but of course here in UK we must have one, so anything period looking would be acceptable.  Ron

"By the way, Ron, I'm telling on you !"

She won't hear a word against me😏  Ron

These ones in all sizes are better quality than the Indian made springs. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Motorbike-Mattress-Saddle-Seat-Spring-6-5-Long/183492104769?hash=item2ab8fb5241:g:8icAAOSwG5teLFSu

Ron

37 minutes ago, APOSTOLOS said:

dear sir I want front wheel bearing.

Very difficult! Try https://www.vintagebearings.co.uk/  Ron

The dishwasher was out at the time!!! Ron

When I used our oven for crank cases when Janet was out, I blamed the neighbours for having a smelly BBQ😇  Ron

I guess that Mrs Pawel was out? Or if like me, you have a little oven in the workshop😆 Ron

PS. Out of interest, there are usually two numbers on Royal Enfield's (war time anyway) One is the actual engine number which on a military Flea is prefixed with a 'V' (Villiers carb fitted) Then once the engine is fitted in a frame it is then also stamped with the frame number. Effectively then making them matching numbers. 

Here's mine.  Ron