Ron

There is no lower chainguard Steve. Just the deep upper chainguard. Ron

I make it 5 3/4" between centers. 3/4" strip x about 2mm.  Ron

I'll look in the morning. Ron

Thanks for that Lex. We have a starting point now. Ron

The bungies look good Steve. 

The levers were dull chrome plated.  Ron

I've done my levers as the factory photo too. Ron

I lapped the valves in, although it hasn't done many miles since new valves, guides, springs. The engine is now built. Just the primary to do. 

I had a very frustrating half hour yesterday, trying to determine where the rear chain was clinking on the chain guard or mudguard. It's very awkward to see the complete chain run behind the tool box and pannier. Turned out to be the combination spanner that I'd left on the silencer mounting nut, pinging against the spokes on the other side....Doh!

Ron

Steve my Lucas badge is 7/8". My gas paint is the original stuff which came from John Tinley and I have a small amount in a jar. It's the mustard colour as you can see, which I prefer to that other gay colour!!😏 I think it turns pink or purple once in contact with gas. 

The whole gas mask and gas detection systems during the war were an unnecessary precaution, after lessons learnt from WW1, the Germans never used it. Ron

My original headlamp has a hole about 3/8" diam in the center about 2 1/2" up from the edge of the bowl. Those early blackouts where simply cut from black manila card (available from Hobbycraft or online I guess) a half circle hole in the middle and placed behind the glass. The Lucas logo medallion is available from "Vintage Supplies" 

The factory picture has a switch panel so is different.  Ron

Tom I know you're aware that Balancing and Truing are two different aspects. Truing to get the mainshafts running to within the RE manual tolerance of within .001" runout is quite tricky.  It's so easy to give things a final tweak when you're nearly there, then go past the goal and have to start going backwards.......and forwards....and so on.

Balancing  is the unknown/guesswork factor. Since I've tried it at a static factor of 60% with a possible slightly out of true crank, I'm hoping for a better result with the crank as it is now and an altered factor to 56%.

Within reason now though, I'll probably accept what I get......Or buy a Honda!      Ron

Wire wheel the rust off, a smear of body filler over the welds and then plenty of high build primer before W&D.👍 Ron

PS. Yesterday I assembled piston, barrel, timing gear and magdyno. It was another one of those occasions that took about 15 goes to get the ignition timing  spot on at 3/8" BTDC. Always a good idea to gently lap the pinion onto the mag shaft taper while it's on the bench, which I hadn't thought was necessary on this occasion but wish I had.  Ron

Hi Andy, good to hear from you, and thanks for the kind offer to let me restore your bike. I'll give that some seri.......Oh I already have😜

Look forward to riding with you again. I've already had both covid vaccine jabs.......Just need the rest of the World to get theirs!  Ron

PS. Ainsley asked if I'd checked the clutch for balance. So I'm looking into that as another means of something to do and learn during lockdown. Ron 

Rik, I spent 2 hours in Ainsley's workshop and saw the whole proper process of truing the crank. (He's done hundreds of them) It was a case of bumping the wheels in just the right places and squeezing in a vice and wedging apart to achieve what we were happy with. It was spinning freely in the case at the end of the session. Ainsley did it out of friendship and determination and wouldn't take a penny.

Then I spent half a day on the end float. Sorting through different thrust washers and shims to achieve about equal each side. 

I'm sure lots of these engines are not built to the makers tolerances, but I'm trying the best I can while I'm at it.

I would like to know why Hitchcocks "end washers" and "thrust washers" are identical? When the parts list clearly quotes different numbers and gives them different names. I have a selection of thicker Thrust washers, some of which only have witness of the roller ends on one side, so turning them round produces a flat face again.  Ron

After many hours, the Crank is trued to .002" each side and the end float is adjusted to .009". I'm happy with this. The two studs through the cheeks as well as the top crankcase studs need to be done up each time of checking end float. It's all very tedious as the main bearing rollers have to be collected and reassemble each time the cases are split. It's going back together again now. Ron 

What/where is the bumper? I haven't looked at mine yet. Ron

Rupert.  All vehicles and motorcycle were supplied in "Service Colour" throughout the duration of hostilities. Green or Brown. RAF Blue Grey resumed again after the war.

The post war Triumph TRW's were supplied in gloss green and gloss RAF blue and did indeed often have gold pinstripes. You often see the NOS tail pieces for sale. From memory they are longer than the war time models. I think the rear carrier is the same as 3HW?  Certainly the panniers are the same. Ron 

I guess the metal base could soon be formed (laser cut) from sheet steel. Then that leaves the lamp holder part. All in all quite a lot of work. Ron

Roy was making some very nice replicas, copied from my original. I have one on my Velo MAF below. I don't think he wants to make them now? Maybe the tube part is ok, which can be married to a Lucas base. Probably the lens and rim is too problematic?  Ron

Here are some images of G3 ammeters. I assume they would have been Lucas. Mine is an original type but not Lucas. I bought one of the new made "genuine"? Lucas ammeters, but decided to stick with the one I have.

This replica on ebay looks quite good??  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amperemeter-Ammeter-6V-2-Lucas-Nachbau/153918985737?hash=item23d6495609:g:prMAAOSwmjZesCuA       Ron

PS and panel with new made mushroom head  screws that I got copied from the original pictures.

That is very nice to have. It's the contract plate that was fixed on at the factory which gives the details of the contract that your bike was supplied from so that the military workshops knew the specifications of the machine and which parts lists to refer too.

That contract S2956 was for 5000 machines during 1943/4.  Ron

Steve let me know if you want any measurements confirmed from the front edge.  Ron

I just checked the 1940 G3 list and the 1944 last contract G3L list. The front portion has the revised for 1939 number W39 G3 182 in both books, and the back portion has the number W36 G3 181 with a "A" at the end in 44.  (Amended but not sure when).  Ron

Please send me any drawing Lex.    Ron 

Yes the complete battery carrier from 36-44 is the same part number. W36 G3 E185. But they seemed to just use the same number even when they changed things?

Ron