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Posts posted by Ron
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Where's the picture? Ron
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I don't know if he still has anything left, but there is easy contact details on his website.
https://www.cornucopia-enterprises.de/indey.html
Ron
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Hi Steve
I don't recall a saddle like that on any WD bike? Ron
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Yes that will do fine. I did think that it can't be that difficult to mould the rubber part. Ron
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As far as I know, the B set antena's are the same with the exception of the ring brush guard fitted to those in a more vunarable positon. I'm getting ready for a weekend away, but I'll try and take some pictures/measurments tomorrow. Ron
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A normal 1/2" x 26tpi nut with "reduced hex" will do it. Ron
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I'm sure that Triumph would have returned unissued brand new WD bikes to the factory for a civilian make over. But I've never heard that they restored old used examples as did RE?? Ron
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Yes I forgot about the pump. That means cut and re-weld the bracket. It looks like the top one is the best you have. I can't remember if Jan makes this chainguard or not? I'll ask him. Ron
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What do your pump brackets measure?
you could just put a 3/8" spacer under the bracket to save cutting and welding.
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Distance L is aprox 5 1/2" on both mine.
However the pump brackets are 15" on my 3SW and 16" on my 5SW. Considering that my 5SW chainguard is about 3/8" longer than my 3SW. I would suspect that this one is a reproduction?
What do your pump brackets measure?
PS have you got a 90 link chain? Maybe your wheel should move backwards a bit more?
Ron
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Yep me too usually. I still haven't quite got the hang of those Napolionic measurements.
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I'm sure you will make it work Pawel
BTW Engineers use mm. Dress makers use cm😆😆
Ron
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Yes over the weekend a mate came round and we went through everything again. of all simple things, it was the coil. Even though I temporarily fitted a spare one that I had......Which also must be duff. I bought another new one which arrived Saturday and cured the problem.
Both the previous coils were delivering a spark, but obviously not strong enough. I've restarted the Tilly several times over the weekend and all seems fine now. Ron🤞
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The parts are "Breather Nozzle in sleeve nut, part number NE153A and Diaphragm NE154". These were fitted to the whole range pre war and wartime. But I have no idea where you can obtain them. You might just have to repair it the best you can. The Diaphragm is just a free acting flap valve that opens and closes with the up and down of the piston.
You should already have a crankcase breather. This nozzle allows extra breathing into the primary case.
Hopefully Prof will translate. Ron
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I don't suppose he bothered? He's not going to ride it and it's too heavy to steal without a Hiab. Ron
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Ah right. It looks like my pedals and Tommy bar are later additions. Cheers Ron
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That is exactly like mine. Drilled through the bolt head and slightly tipped up. Adrian says the early ones were welded on.
Is yours a first pattern with the twin saddles tubes? Ron
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AH! I see a slight hump on the shoulders of the fork legs and an inverted "V" on the side of the lugs!
Ron
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Ha Ha! Wally. It's one of the first things I tried. Repeated it a few times since. I've convinced myself that I'm losing current from the batteries whilst cranking. I'm wondering if I have a fault with the starter motor although it's spinning as it's always done....Or is there a problem with my brand new Shield batteries?? Ron
WDRE 125 Flying flea sparking problem.
in Motorcycles
Posted · Edited by Ron
The obvious first thing is, have you tried different plugs? Also when earthing the plug, the end of the HT lead must be clear of the earth point. You should get a spark from just the end of the HT lead when held 1/8" or so from an earth point. Ron
PS I'm not sure how you test the HT with a multimeter? The spark generated by the magneto is in the Millivolt rage...Hence the shock if you touch it. Maybe someone with more electronics experience can advice?