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Posts posted by Ron
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I've finished the Talflow. I cut some new felt for the filter by using the old manky one as a pattern. I forgot to take a picture before I buttoned it up. I've just got the holding straps to make from a cardboard template.
If anyone is interested, I've now got this good quality repro Vokes, surplus to requirements. The elbow is also repro and the plate is one of the latest from "Vintage Brass Plates" £390. PM me off line is best. Ron
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There were no extra numbers Lex. The top has four coats of high build red oxide now with W&D after each coat. So top coat next.
Calendar just arrived.👍😊 Ron
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Mine is a proper WW2 steel headlamp 😜 Ron
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Steve, with a tailors tape, center of medallion to front edge of rim is 3 1/2". Ron
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Yes. For dusty places. Like a Vokes tank top filter, but I'd say, not as efficient. Ron
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Strangely, the screw on carb adapter is far to big for a 276 carb? I measured the thread with a vernier and it's 1/8" too big. So what on Earth carb was it designed for? I've got another adapter coming which should fit the bill. Ron
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The Talflows tank top air filter was made by the Talboys Manufacturing co. I've just acquired one from a batch that turned up in Pakistan. I've decided to fit it to my M20 just to have something different. The original Vokes on my M20 will be moved to another bike.
Here is a photographic record of how they were found....A bit bent, twisted and rusted. I've managed to get the four top screws and the three brass adjustable feet undone. I've stripped the base part, knocked some dents out and heat shrunk the base to get it near flat again. Ron
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I don't think I've seen a specific diagram for the panel tank Steve. But you just have to follow the same diagram for a bike with a three position switch.....It's just that the instruments are in the tank and not the headlamp. The only addition is a live and earth for the wandering lead lamp.
As a tip, I put snap connectors in all these leads and colour coded them....Makes life a bit easier if you have to take the tank off. Ron
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Hi Rik. Well my crank was finally statically balanced to 56%. But that is with it's heavier than standard weight piston. I wouldn't want to suggest that figure to anyone using a different piston. And of course, different engines resonate differently in different frames, which is why designers adopt a happy medium, and why some bikes suffer from more vibration than their sister bikes.
I'd love to borrow a crank with standard piston that is running smoothly and get the balance facture calculated, just to see what the designers had in mind for these. But it would seem that the usual practice for these type of engines of around 58% would be a good guess.
Ron
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Hallelujah! I managed a 10 miles loop today and I'm chuffed to little tin fittings with the outcome. The engine smooths right out at 40mph in top gear (30mph in 3rd gear) and stays smooth up to just past 50mph, which is absolutely all I want.
Next please!! Ron
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Yes it runs nicely Andy, but impossible to tell about vibration through the frame until it's ridden. I found before, that the vibes ironed out at about 50mph. But who wants to ride everywhere at that speed. Ideally I want it to smooth out after 40mph.
Hoping for a dry spell. Ron
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It's usually the split skirt pistons that are marked 'FRONT'. The base of the piston skirt is usually oval by a few thousands on an inch when measured with a micrometer. It's the widest part that you use as the datum for the piston to bore skirt clearance. From memory it's .008" for these Triumphs which seems quite a large gap to me. Maybe these Triumph pistons grow when hot? Or maybe they are tapered from the top? I've never thought to measure that! Ron
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My saddle bungie kit from Czech Republic arrived today via Steve. I shortened them enough to give a firm springiness and formed the the hooks to the bare ends. My nose bracket has suffered some abuse by a previous owner, so had to make the best of that. But I'm pleased with the result, especially as I didn't need to remove the saddle from the bike. Ron👍
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'43 Royal Enfield WD/CO - horn mounting positions / kill switch
in Motorcycles
Posted
Martin you need a longer front engine stud with a spacer about 1" long. You can make it out in this engine rebuild picture.
Ron