Ron

If the original Humber in this thread is to be restored back to its 8cwt configuration, it will need the same body as my Morris. I took just about every measurement from my original body for a Canadian guy who converted them into proper drawings. I've also collected as much info as I can on the wireless set up.  Ron 

Both my Matchies were erroneously fitted with throttle cables with an in line adjuster. A very good idea actually but not the right look.  So I've just replaced both of them and had to go through the carb removing process twice to do so.  

Also both cables had to be modified to create more free length by unwinding a small section of their outer cable.....Bah!

Actually though it whiles away some of lockdown.

Like completely removing a non sparking mag from my 5SW last week, just to find it was just some verdigris on the end of the HT lead which took 10 seconds to clean off with a brass bristle brush....Hey Ho!

Ron

Yep me too Lex, even by the roadside in France on the G3 of one of your ex girlfriends. Fortunately I had a spare cable and her dad, uncle, and me spent an hour changing it. She is a nice looking blonde though☺️ Ron

Can't have any of that sort of talk Chris......It'll upset the spirits in my shed! 

I really like the look of the G3, but I know which bike I'd rather work on and maintain or change a throttle cable in the rain in the dark. And somewhere to carry some tools that are seldom needed.  Ron😆

Steve did your bike come with no tank or a rusty tank? I can't remember? Good that you located one. Ron

Hi I saw your PM but might as well respond here. Personally I have no Matchless spares. But you could try here. 

http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ 

also watch ebay.  

Regards Ron

Yes Steve in severe cases, A smear of ordinary body filler rubbed down with 60 or even 40 grit can smooth things out. But it can be built up with 10-15 coats of high build primer (2 pack is best) which never looks like it's doing much until most of it rubbed off with 240 W&D. Ron👌

I can't argue with any of that. I've just got this awful obsession  with trying to make everything look new again.😣 Ron 

This one is listed wrongly! It's post war (at least 1947) and civilian with chrome and acorn nuts. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224370083098?ul_noapp=true

Ron

".Ron you might have some trouble catching me 😉"

I'll put my high lift cams back in and we'll see about that😜. My engine has also undergone a full rebuild with bespoke needle roller big end. Having said that, I start getting scared after 50mph.😕

Steve do you like that heavy pitted look? Personally I use loads of high build primer and W&D paper to get rid of most of it. It's no criticism, just a debate as I know lots of guys like to show its history. Lex for instance quite likes it to be seen.  Ron 

Yep my mistake. Grouser is probably it. Is your dozer US Lex?  Ron

Keep them coming Lex👍 The "tabs" that you welded on! In the World of tanks, they call them "Growlers"  Ron

Yes I saw your dilemma about being to big and heavy and using that little bike off road. You even broke a massive heavy Big 4 for God's sake 😏 But you can see that the front frame came out with a little bit of wiggle behind the gearbox. 

The registration on mine is sorted and I still have it's transferable plate. Ron

Posting pictures as you go would be good.

Ron

Yes mine has the one cutout at the top and I even started to file out the others, but it was easier to sand those lumps off as I didn't need them. Ron

I wondered what those three lumps were on the bottom of the ammeter, and yet there was no way my ammeter would fit through the hole in the panel until I sanded them off . The bent up tabs under the rim worked fine on mine. Ron

Stef that is effectively a matching numbers bike (Triumph did it like that at that time) TL 53184 is the 2767th bike from 3000 from contract C8886 which were delivered between Ocr44 and Feb45. I calculate the tank census number to be C4856946.

Ron

I helped  ID these parts if there's anything you need.  Ron

http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=9030&msgid=1441751&cmd=show

Very well done Steve. Mine had the four little bend out lugs to clip it into the panel (silly idea)  How is yours fixed? Also at the bottom of the brass bezel, where it meets the Bakelite base, I had to sand those three little lumps off to get it through the hole in the panel.

Ron

Can't argue with that!👍 Ron

Mine is up the right side rear mudguard stay as in the B&W factory pictures, but instead of over the top to a fag end, it is under the mudguard behind the number plate. Ron

Very good point Rik!  Ron

The mudguard on the bike I restored for Tibo is very short. Ron

I stripped the paint off my NOS ammeter and it's bare brass underneath. I guess for a painted installation, maybe a car dash? I certainly don't want to risk dismantling it or the platers, so I've simply sprayed it with Simonize Wheel Silver. 

Ron