Ron

I use Morris's straight 40 in all my bike engines. The hand book will usually tell you to swap between 30 to 50 according to climate. I find 40 to be a happy compromise. Ron

Absolutely right Guy. My mistake! I've built enough Triumphs that I should have remembered!! I was mixing up the distance tube with the foot-peg support tube in the parts list. The pre war tube is 2 1/2" long. However the 3HW has a different part number for some reason ? F2327 Ron

It is flush at the back of the primary case. Ron

There is no distance tube between the engine plates. Just the one between the N/S engine plate and the rear of the primary case. Ron

Yes here is a picture of the strip down. The ally cases of the earlier models also have a breather pipe. I guess it's to stop any oil leaving through the breather. Although I don't fully understand the need for a breather at all. These must be far from airtight behind the clutch! Ron

If those first forks were Speedtwin. They would be too heavy for a 3/5S They should also have the yoke with the rubber handlebar mounting. I'd put money on them being Ariel (very similar to Triumph). Was that thread from the bloke who said he'd done 18 miles on Indian made forks, some of it off road????????? The original fork lugs were a steel casting or forging and the forks were properly jigged before being pinned and brazed. You will find that the Indian made lugs are cast iron and I wonder what sort of jigs are used. You pay your money and take your chance......I'll get my coat and say no more about it. Ron

Those three wheel vans were made in large numbers by Raleigh and would have used a girder fork far too heavy for a little Trumpet... Later the company became Reliant "you ploncker Rodney" I've yet to see anything from India that would inspire me to risk life and limb. OK for some of the tin ware if you can find stuff that is not beaten misshapen by a Walla sat cross legged in the sand. What the hell are these made from? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251445262834?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D251445262834%26_rdc%3D1 Ron

Indeed the Webb fork will do, and they also fitted a very similar Webb fork on Velocette's. Which could widen your search opportunities. Jenk. Lex is here and passing through, and given me a toolbox knob for you. PM me your email address and I'll send a picture. Ron

Oliver, just to clarify as I can't remember if I've already mentioned it. The forks you need are the pre war lightweights.(Made by Triumph). The wartime forks as fitted to 3HW's are not the same. After the factory was bombed in 1940 and Triumph continued with production of the 3HW in their new facility, they fitted 'Webb' forks. I bought a complete set for a 5SW project off a Dutch guy about 2 years ago, I paid £500 for them. As Jenk says, this Triumph stuff is hard to find! Just keep looking and advertising. They are sweet little bikes. Ron

Sorry....Top 'YOKE' not egg 'YOLK'. Ron

The military Triumphs did not feature the rubber mounted handlebars which is what the Ebay yolk is for. It's a pre war thing........They're a pain in the arse anyway, as the bars easily swivel in the rubber doughnuts and can end up hitting the top of your tank. Ron

(number on the cable:454751-800) Thanks Ron

Those Indian made forks are poor copies of the 3HW Web forks, and I wouldn't want to risk the power and weight of a 350 OHV, let alone the big twin lump. Even if those were genuine Triumph forks, they are still to light for the bike. And now he's passed his vast knowledge and expertise onto some other poor potential patient! Ron

It's just a simple steel disc/core plug. Anything the right size and pushed in with a bit of Araldite round it will do. Ron

Yes Oliver it's all the same bike. It's why I posted the three pictures to give a view in different lights. Again only in the flesh can you see it correctly. But you can see the difference with the Olive Green. Khaki is that sort of more Buff colour of battle dress. Ron

This Royal Enfield from 1940 was hand painted black when I got it. But it had lots of original paint inside covers/lids/brake plate etc. I boast about how accurately I matched it. And see the Olive Green on the truck behind. Ron

Oh dear! It doesn't bode well for Mr Whitely! All that power and Indian made lightweight forks!!! The pre war Triumph twins (500cc Speedtwin and Tiger 100) used a much heavier fork. Ah I see you have been looking at Rob Van Den Brinks Norton site. It's what I said earlier about paint colour debates. One firms Khaki Green could be miles away from another firms, and possibly close to Olive Green. But you would need to see that tank in the flesh for a true comparison. I have varied the shades in my shed by mixing Olive green and service brown in formulas of 50/50 25/75 and 75/25 until I like what I see. It's sort of a 'Goose Turd Green by Moonlight' colour. Ron

All the pre war light weight Triumph forks from about 1938 are the same. 3HW are different, they are Webb forks. Be aware of Indian forks bearing the description "New Old Stock" unless you like hospital food.......It's bollocks! Ron

Have a search through google images. Click on the pictures to expand them. Ron https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=WW2+trucks+in+the+RAF&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=W84vU6bkBIvG7AahpYHABg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=899

Hi I got your PM. But in all honesty I don't know the sizes or if there was a directive from the Air Ministry on a standard format? The few motorcycle pictures I have studied and the two original RAF Norton Big 4 pictures that I have, indicate to me that each base just put the numbers on as they saw fit. My advice would be to copy an original picture as close as you can. Maybe the RAF buffs know better? Ron

This is my effort so far. I'm just waiting for a couple more stencils for the unit marking. I've used Axholme stencils numerous times with good results. I'm often hampered by having to apply census numbers to the double curvature of motorcycle petrol tanks, but I have my way of getting round it. I have to say though, that the RAF roundel is an awkward one and I cocked up the little one on the tank, again not helped by the curves. But Tony had sent me a spare one, so I was able to proceed with a bit more care. But I don't think I would want to use stickers on this period of vehicle.........Don't the MODS use them? Ron PS I used PLASTICOTE enamel small rattle cans off ebay Night Blue/White/Red, gloss (although it's not too glossy) and Matt White on the numbers.

Tom I got my silencer from 'Available Austins' in Coventry. They were still be made by 'Bainbridge Silencers' (shipping would be costly though) When I fitted mine I took the opportunity to re routed the tail pipe to exit under the drivers door, which seems to be how it is in the manual and original pictures. Ron

I just ordered stencils to mark one of my bikes from Axholme signs. Of coarse you have to spray/brush paint them yourself. This is the proof they sent me. Ron

I've got you beat Tony. When I was haggling over the price of my Welbike. The guy swayed me by throwing in a Parabike for another £100. This was about 16 years ago though. He found all this stuff during visits to India. He also found my original Big 4 side car body in India. We've been friends ever since ( I did offer to marry him!!!???). His Dad wrote the book "From Welbike to Corgi" . I'm not stating what these Parabikes should sell for, merely what others are asking for them.. Ron

I have seen unmolested examples at the W&P show with a £2000 price ticket. But have a look at the prices a dealer is asking here in UK. http://www.stuart-bray-motorcycles.co.uk/ Ron