Ron

I've just been reminded that it was the 'ARCHER' self propelled gun that had the motorcycle saddle for the gun layer. You can see it on this example, missing the cover (bottom left) Ron PS since I posted this, I've been trying to do some research and asking around it seems that these guns also might have used Rexine on the saddles. So still no conclusive proof about where the canvas saddles were used?

The 'WRIGHTS' canvas covered saddles were not made for motorcycles. They were in fact a gun layers seat for an artillery piece. But over the years some artistic licence has crept in, and I dare say some enterprising squadies might have used them to avoid getting a scorched arse in a hot country. I've even done it on my desert 3HW. Regarding the pannier frames with the 'sliders' I've only ever seen them fitted to Matchless G3L's in original pictures. I reckon they must have been made by or for Matchless. All the rest seem to have the universal wing nut type. Ron

Ferg has made some valid points and observations, especially the one about Matchless modifying and changing parts frequently. In that respect I wouldn't worry about your pillion saddle too much. The central rib could be used on both types of guard. Although it does look a bit close to the riders saddle? I sent you a couple of pictures of mine, which I hope is reasonably correct. Below is a reminder. Although your tank looks the right shape (again there were two variations to the G3L tank) I'm guessing that yours with a bayonet cap, must be post war. It's the usual case also, that a lot of the correct WD parts were changed post war. Like ammeter, switch, levers, speedo etc. All fairly hard to find now and expensive. I wouldn't consider one of the Indian speedos, they don't look at all right. Although I have no idea of their quality, suffice to say a lot of their other stuff is crap. Ron

The trouble is that these plates (or toolbox) could have come from another bike. Best to work from the frame number. If you post it up or PM it. Myself or someone will look it up for you. Check the number directly from the frame (a picture is best) not the V5C (log book) or other documents. Ron

Well the engine is a 350cc and the silencer is the standard Royal Enfield silencer fitted to most models at that time, including the 250's. Ron

It's been well over a month since my last post, but things are still progressing 'SLOWLY'. The Miller Magneto has been rewound and rebuilt. I've also rebuilt the dynamo and modified it from a 3 brush to 2 brush system, so that I can wire it through a modern electronic regulator. Mainly because the original integral cut out unit is knackered. However the guy who supplied me with the mag has a better dynamo body with NOS armature for me, so will re do it when it eventually arrives. I've also managed to borrow best part of a complete set of original cables from an early WDC which will be easier to copy rather than guess all the lengths. Also, Jan refused to allow me to use the silencer that Armours made and has made me one with the double barrelled baffles and oval shape as per an original. Jan also made the dynamo clamp assembly, which again he scaled up from the pictures we have. Ron

I guess you add up the wattage of your bulbs. For instance a 21W headlamp bulb plus say 6W tail lamp and don't forget your brake lamp bulb say 18W = 45 divided by 6 = 7.5. But you would have to check your bulb wattage and of coarse you might use your horn at night whilst braking. I reckon you might have something wrong if you're blowing a 10 amp fuse, Ron

Not me! Since they clash it with Weymouth parade now and I'm on duty there. Ron

Yes there is a cork gasket fitted which is different from the ally case gasket. Brian Tillin did make some, not sure if he has any now. You could try him on 07786861697. He's pretty good with Triumph singles. Ron

I agree with Chris. I run several bikes including my WD/CO and WD/G. Farley low mileage of course, but sometimes I'll manage over 100 miles in one trip at up to 55mph. The only bike that I have a hardened insert in is my WM20 exhaust valve. I kind of wish I hadn't bothered as the first one came out in Normandy one year and spoilt my holiday. (It's been ok ever since a slightly tighter fit one was put in). Also I haven't used lead replacement additives for years. I just use an Ethanol free additive these days on the basis that it can't do any harm even if it doesn't do any good! Ron

Indeed Chris, now I look again at the picture I can see the rivets. With hind site I should take more pictures, otherwise the only way to answer these questions is to pull the bike apart. That picture was taken mainly to show the original KG3 paint that was left inside and under several parts. I managed to match the paint by mixing greens and brown. Ron

What oil to use debates can go on for ever. But I use Morris's mono-grade SAE 40 in all my engines and often a thicker grade (50 in the gearbox. I buy at the jumbles where there are always traders selling it for £14-£16 per 5 litres. (Some gearbox's use semi fluid grease but not Triumph) I don't know of a commercially available chain case gasket (it's different from the ally ones) It's a long time since I've touched a breather valve, but I'm sure it's just a flap disc with no spring. I have canvas covers on my 3HW but it's purely 'Artistic Licence' I'm sure I've seen a war time image of a canvas cover fitted to a bike. But the canvas covered saddles that were produced by 'WRIGHTS' were actually a gun layers seat in an armoured vehicle. I guess some enterprising sole thought it a good idea to fit one to save getting a burnt bum out in the desert heat. Ron

The picture I posted is the chain cover from my WD/L as it's the only one I seem to have a picture of. I'm sure it's just a single disc, held in place by the crescent moon shaped plate above it. It's so long since I've had my WD/C or CO apart, I can't remember how it looks. Ron

Demon, these Enfield's leave a bit to be desired with the space between the clutch and the gearbox. Anything out of line or bent frame and the rear chain can rub on the back of the chain case or the clutch can rub on the inside of the case. There appears to be a bodge repair to yours. It should look like this I think. There is no bush or spacer behind the clutch hub. It's well worth spending some time fettling/adjusting the bottom bracket and spacer tube so that the inner case is clear of both rear chain and clutch, before you do the final fitting. Ron

The spindle sizes are 7/16" at the front 9/16" at the back. Personally I'd steer clear of the Indian stuff. Ron

I viewed this (or it's twin sister) back in the 90's. It was laying in a fisherman's yard up an alley on the edge of Holes Bay in Poole. It was very unloved and covered in junk. I decided to leave it where it was. It must be gone from there now as the whole area has been redeveloped. Ron (Poole)

And here is the oil tank cum air filter that Jan made after I've painted it and added the correct transfer. Also the other side with the original tool box. Again there will have to follow an interlude whilst I claim the rest of the Miller dynomag parts from the eccentric guy who has them and also wait for them to be refurbed. Ron

Nick PM sent. Ron

Fabulous! Thank you very much Nick. I have a reasonable collection of vehicles and especially motorcycles. My theme is and has always been 'British Forces WW2' and I'd hate for a Yanky vehicle to have crept in. Even my Indian motocycle is ex British forces. I'll PM you as soon as I get a result from that link you posted. Regards Ron

Thanks again Wally. It least it looks like I have the correct badge on the front of my Tilly (Austin) Ha Ha! Nick I await your findings in the hope of proving it's genuine ex British army. Ron

Thanks Wally. Mine is indeed an Austin Tilly. But my number 00 RA 25 seems to fall before the sequence you posted? Ron

Interesting! I've owned my own Jeep for over 30 years and it came to me as an ex British Jeep (Butler lamps etc). But I've never checked it out. It is chassis number 159838 and I've kept the same bonnet census number that it came with 5474235. It has a Ford tub fitted, but no post war army rebuild plate. My Tilly however still has it's rebuild plate which states it's post war number was 00 RA 25. Regards Ron

Coincidentally I have been talking to another guy from Yeovil who also thought he had a military AJS. However, his has all the correct Matchless numbers. Someone has simply fitted an AJS timing cover and mounted the mag at the front. The bike was painted black over the army green and AJS stickers attached to the tank. At first he was disappointed by the news, but now he's got excited about owning a WD bike and has already re-painted it to military spec. I'm also helping to research his late Dad's old 7th Somerset Light Infantry markings (43rd Wessex div) so that he can pay tribute in June this year. I believe he'll be looking for the correct timing side at some point. Ron

The engine number is stamped 41 (1941). What do you mean by fins? Is it the support webs around the drive side main bearings? Ron

Yes got the PM. I'm sure I can see where a frame number has been sanded off on the N/S headstock. Ron