R Cubed

Just to clear up any confusion on this as its a real pain when you try to undo something and you think you undoing it but you are actually doing it up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :whistle: So this is how it works: All the wheel nuts on the right hand side of the truck undo anti clockwise ( the conventional way). All the wheel nuts on the left hand side of the truck undo clockwise ( not the normal way ) Sometimes the inner sleeve nuts have a " L " stamped on the end square of the nut to indicate it is a left handed nut, don't try to put these on the other side of the truck :-D All the best R3

Mark this is what I had, Violent wobble at about 35, I cured it by replacing the lower king pin bearings which were well ****** if you understand what I mean. under the top and bottom bearing caps on the steering swivels there are shims these can be removed or added to, to get the correct pre load see my post about it.

:-D Oh Ho Ho Ho :-D :-D :-D Looks like I am getting a reputation :whistle:

Hmmmmm I dont want to argue, but as far as I was aware, if the said vehicle is loaded then an MOT / Plating is required ? that is why to get the exemption of an MOT it was stated as a vehicle over 3500 Kg un ladeded because it should not be loaded ?? Just my thought and what I have been told by others, I could be wrong and it does happen :-D :-D :-D

Ah yes quite right that's why I have bought the hydraulic crane as in other threads to cunningly put in the back, Oh by the way I am not going to cut the bed about either maybe a few bolt holes for it but I can live with that.... He he :-D

This is an interesting thread, I have a 352 with winch, on the floor of the steel bed there are 8 holes in pairs which are drilled to run down each side of the chassis rails, there are one each side of the chassis rail located rear left of bed, then one each side of the chassis rail located right rear and then the same but in the front of the bed, left and right, I can give dimensions but not at the moment, also there are 2 distinct marks on the steel floor running across the bed at the rear which would join the left rear pair to the right rear pair of holes and then the same for the front 2 sets of holes ??? Always thought it was for a No7 set but don't know for sure. Any help would be great.

I think you have it a bit wrong with reference to the weight, if it is over 3500 Kg un ladened then you are entitled to this "no MOT" thing. It has nothing to do with a load, it is just the bare vehicle.

As I am now a member of the AWDC then as soon as I hear that there is one confirmed I will post it up here.

:dunno: Lifting it out of where ???

Well I might have been there :-D :-D :-D I did enjoy it lots and did not get stuck once.... This is the first link... http://www.hmvf.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=38&topic=5931.0

Last update.................. I have got the spool block working, must have been the red valve with the handle in the wrong place, so eyeball was always a bit open, this has now been removed, I have refitted the spool block to crane and all works fine so I am now a happy bunny, just have to sort out a few of the finer points and it will be a well useful bit of kit, thanks for all the advice and especially the bit about removing the strap must have been that all along :-D :-D Merry Christmas ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-)

:dunno: have experimented and found if I copy and past the top original quote in square brackets at the top of the bit I want to reply to and then put the /quote bit at the end it seems to work, thanks

Ok I think I have got that bit. The same thing happens, flow to respective spool stops, no flow out from ram connection and the return from the ram connection to tank has free flow? I did think of that but it does not seem to have been disturbed ever. Is a possibility but dont think so. Not closed centre as I get flow through the spool block when all valves are in their central position. Thanks again with the helpful advice on this problem. Might need a new spool block, but I want to understand why this one does not work !!!

I am having trouble, when quoting to a reply, when within the reply I want to reply to specific parts of the quote :dunno: does anyone know what I am on about ?

Update..... I have used another spool block, and the crane itself works fine, so no problems there. The red valve, links the main inlet of the block to the outlet of the block ? also the handle was in the wrong position in relation to the position of the opening in the ball, this is now disconnected and the ports on the block caped off. I have stripped the original spool block down, all spools are unworn and free to move, no chips or marks on them, using an air line at low pressure to test the block I get flow from main inlet of block to outlet side when all levers are in neutral ( centred position ). When a lever is operated the flow stops and does not exit through the actuator port ( A ) ! the other port ( B ) is vented to tank as you would expect, this is the same for all levers in all positions ? Agggghhhh whats going on....... The centre spool with the extra block on the top of it as in the pic, I have removed and there are 2 inlets on the bottom, A and B and 2 outlets on the top A1 and B1, there is at each end of the block what looks like adjustable nuts, ( to adjust pressure ) ? but there is no flow through it from A to A1 or to B1 or B, and vice versa ?? using low pressure air line, what is this for and how does it work ? can someone explain ? I will investigate more this week end if the rain stops......

I will try to explain if you have a 6 volt 50Watt bulb it will draw about 8 Amps If you have a 12 volt 50Watt bulb it will draw about 4 Amps Watts divided by Volts gives Current Current times Volts gives Watts Watts divided by Current gives Volts So if you fit larger Wattage lamps to your existing 6 volt system you increase the current more than it was, and could cause problems to the wiring and switches as they would be intended to work with the standard Wattage bulbs at 6 volts, if you change to 12 volts and up the wattage of the bulbs you should only get to about the same total current demand that it had at 6 volts with the standard type bulbs. Hope this helps R3

Here is my truck 352-B1 Good hot day so I thought I would take here top off

Hear hear, quite agree about keeping our trucks original, but this is how I came to change mine to 12volts, what is the point in having an original truck but is not safe to drive to shows ! I went to 12volts only for the reason of having proper modern bright head lights and good rear lights and brake lights oh and a bright orange flashing light no other reason So that all other road users know I am infront and going slow, I try to avoid motorways as much as possible but this can still happen on dual carridgeways. You sometimes here, now and again, that a historic MV was shunted up the back by another truck and I want to try and avoid this as the best I can... All the best to one and all and Merry Christmas 31 days to go !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well done you guys, so real trucks have spark plugs and real men change a clutch in -10 C conditions and in the rain............... I am soooo not worthy :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: I would have to have a heater outside ..... Good going have you got it all back in and running ?

More to add to the list from Rex then oh dear the list is getting bigger !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :shake: good job its winter.

How did you get on doing the bows lets have an update !!! What wood did you use in the end and how much of a bow did you put in the wood ?

:tup: CCKW352-B1

Well there you go at least someone can take pics of quality vehicles :whistle:

The Scammell just bellied out :shake:

The Guy who put it on does seem keen to do it again so fingers crossed, so ammazing how agile these old trucks are just goes to show why they were used...