simon king

Mickey Mouse was never a formal pattern, just one variation of the foliage scheme shown in Military Training Pamphlet MTP46/4A, details of which can be found on the web. Disruptive painting was discouraged from August 1944 anyway.

Vintage Car Parts might have something suitable, Richard. They have a large range of handles.

Don’t know if this is right Forum or not. Please move if appropriate. Seems that the decision to charge for third party hosting has been reversed. Looks as if all the forum pictures that were hosted via photobucket and had been replaced by that dreaded Photobucket logo are now visible again. You wonder if the brand is terminally damaged though as a result of the original decision to charge.

I have assumed it was a dark blue fouled anchor on a light blue background, and a light blue 30 on a dark blue background but that’s just an assumption based on the colours of the badge applied to BD blouses I notice that there is an MWR behind the Merc in the picture in the Mobility section.

Standard panel pins a fraction too small in diameter for some existing pin holes sadly. Bite around edge in those cases is marginal. Fit the countersinks though. In addition there are three pin holes through the panel into the middle frame in line with the two carriage bolts. No pin holes at all on the other side panel, although there were screw holes beneath in the frame. That panel must date from the post-War rebuild as it only had post war colours on it. Sidescreen sockets from Vintage Supplies fit perfectly and lock the panel down onto the frame. Just sanded the chrome to give paint a key.

Thanks Richard that helps and that little countersink in your panel ties up with what I see on one of my panels as well. The other doesn’t have any nail holes at all; hence my confusion. Better see what’s on offer at B&Q......

Hi Richard, how do you intend (if at all) to secure the metal cab sides to the wooden framing across the top and down the front edge behind the door capping. I am refurbishing the back half of the cab at the moment, and on the evidence of what I have found during the strip down, it could be panel pins, csk screws or nothing at all -and that’s the evidence from just one side.

Arial dates from 1982..... I’ve just had the same problem x12 working up decal and colour options for some 1/35th model kits

298 and 499 are close equivalents/substitutes but not the actual shades for SCC15 and SCC2. Near enough for all but the very picky though - especially as there would have been some manufacturing variation likely anyway. There’s a place in Retford (Paintman Paint) that sells a matched KG3 paint although I have never used it and have no connection to the firm

There is usually some WW 1 wheeled input to Tracks to the Trenches which is held at Apedale, near Stoke on Trent. This year it is being held 13th to 15th July. More info at the Moseley Railway Trust website. The only place to see Baldwin, Hunslet and Hudswell locomotives and Simplex petrol tractors towing the correct WDLR rolling stock on a ballasted and field railway system running into reproduction trenches. The German and French light railway systems will also be represented.

If it’s the same stuff as used on the drivers footboard of ajmac’s Loyd Carrier resto, it’s called Pyramid Nosing and is used in the fabrication of steel stairways

That warm air feed from the heat shield must have been fitted for a reason. Have you discounted possible carb icing as a reason for the issue?

Right angle drill attachments often allow you to use power drills in confined places where space dictates that it would be otherwise only possible to use a hand drill.

After 18 months, I've finally finished the cosmetic refurb of the 19 set to wartime appearance with all the B set controls present. I picked up a scrap 19 set chassis with no faceplate at Stoneleigh which still had the rare B Set tuning wheel in place - as well as a quench coil for the future restoration of another 19 set to go into the wheelarch locker as a spare. I cleaned it up, repainted the numbers and fitted it this morning Job done Thanks to Chris, Nigel and Mark for helping with spares to complete the job.

That’s just the standard Caunter Scheme, so sand, silver grey and slate. Google Caunter scheme and use Mike Starmer’s colours as a guide. If you buy his book on the Caunter scheme, you will get the patterns and colour chips for the three colours. sk

If the sand trick doesn’t produce the required result, 1 3/8” is just under 35mm which seems to be the maximum diameter for commercially available pipe benders. Could you ask your go-to plumber?

That last OY with the roundel seems to be another truck with a field modification to include a hatch/hip ring over the passenger seat

The Tank Museuem had an example of both the Neptune and the Argosy for a while but they were ultimately scrapped.which seems remarkably short-sighted as by then they were likely to be the sole survivors.

Looks like a replacement tank as well, which is not a good likeness to the original shape, particularly at the corners. That might explain why there are no hold-down straps for the fuel tank. Presumably that’s not a problem if it is not in use though. Wouldn’t want to drive it though if the tank is being put to it’s intended use. As Pete has said, don’t buy as a restored vehicle for a restored vehicle price. Instead consider as an assembled starter kit for a detailed factory or motor pool restoration depending on your intentions and be prepared to part with more money to do the job properly.

That’s a 20cwt GS trailer. There are a couple of restorations by Ian L and Guy66 on here

A picture is worth a thousand words Hope this clarifies things

Hi Danny Couple of photos of mine - has a bearing on dimensions the two L-brackets are staightforward - 1/8" thick strip A = 2" B = C = 2.75" D = 3.5" For the long bracket - for a start it differs from your drawing 1- the top corner of the trailing edge is angled/chamfered - 3/4" off overall length (of your dimension F) and width ( of your dimension G) 2 - the strip is just bent through 90 degrees So........................ from 3/16" thick strip (your dimension I) E = 10" F = 6.5" to start of chamfer or 7.25" overall G = 2.5" overall (or 1.75" taking account of chamfer at top) H = 1.5" Holes at bottom end are 2.5" apart on a vertical plane, 0.5" from cut edge For bizarre reason, this one had been welded to a plate, which in turn had been bolted to the stowage bin, but I think I have recovered it to its original shape/dimensions Hope this helps. Progress on mine is glacial but I will get there one day

Yes - thanks for that - saw that but was trying to find the actual order that went to unit commanders in both US and Commonwealth units telling them to paint unit serial numbers and colour bars on vehicles prior to D-Day. I wanted to see if there is any reference to specific number /colour combinations in the order. I am sure the same order went to all Allied unit commanders I know there were initially separate combinations promulgated for use by US and Commonwealth units (bar Canada who had their own system) but i wanted to see whether these separate combinations remained in use during/post D-Day or whether the number/colour combinations were standardised across Allied forces prior to the invasion. Cheers

I,ll measure mine tomorrow for you. I am assuming it is an original

I think SHAEF sent out a single order to all Allied unit commanders (British and US) in the run-up to D-Day concerning the need to mark vehicles, material etc with unit serial numbers accompanied by the three coloured bar marking. I am sure I have seen a copy of this order on the web somewhere but I can’t find it now. Can anybody point me in the direction of this order please. Many thanks