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simon king

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Everything posted by simon king

  1. Thanks John - unfortunately I've only got the outer shell - and that has a hole at the back On that evidence, I thought it was for a wire to come out of the socket so I had assumed that the trailer wiring finished/started at this socket and that the connector between jeep and trailer had plugs at either end. Clearly I got the wrong end of the stick. I have an old scrap jeep wiring loom with the spring loaded connectors for the tail lights. Could I adapt one of those fittings to provide the innards for this socket - did I understand you right? Thanks again sk
  2. John - do those Butler sockets to "park" the trailer connection have a spring inside to ensure retention of the socket - and are they always bent through 90 degrees? I have a well rusted example which I harvested from one of the 10cwt trailer parts I acquired with my 10cwt GS - (although I have to admit that I didn't know what it was until reading your post above) but if they're rare, that might be my best bet in the short term pending discovery of a better example. Any advice welcome. thanks Simon King
  3. the famous photo of a Royal Signals jeep and 10cwt trailer at Pegasus Bridge seems to show a full set of markings on the tailgate - div sign, AoS square/unit number, census number and 20 MPH speed limit - so I guess anything goes. Then there was also the seemingly shortlived "security" markings introduced for the invasion - Div sign/AoS square replaced by the unit's 5 digit unit number with three coloured bars underneath representing the numbers. Each number had a different colour assigned. It seems to be a continuation of the system often seen on BEF vehicles. I've also just noticed o
  4. It is odd that wartime photos seem to show a convoy light and a rear light fitted on the lightweight trailers but the GS/mortar trailer series appear to be devoid of any lights in the factory shots I have seen. Perhaps it was felt that the reflective T plate was sufficient. Certainly lights had been fitted to mine at some time subsequently as the central of the three tabs on the cross-frame - for which nobody seems to know the purpose - had been removed to allow fitment of a plate carrying standard switch and junction box. Additionally some sort of receiving socket for the power lead fro
  5. Apparently an original axle plate. Note how the corners have been chamfered. Dimensions are 12" by 6". They were certainly used on the lightweight 10cwt trailers during the war.
  6. External lip oil seals are available here - but you'll need to sell a kidney to pay for them...... http://www.vintagebearings.co.uk/ Even the cross-pinned tubes seem to have safety chains according to the diagram on this webpage http://www.goatpark.force9.co.uk/tempsite/gstrailer.htm
  7. [quote name=ted angus; As to the description of the verticals on your trailer -I have heard - the corners are normally referred to as corner posts and the other verticals on the side as side angles ? Sorry I have taken this thread off course - fantastic to see the work. regards TED I found this on-line - although you sometimes have to take such things with a pinch of salt - so perhaps it's both vertical stanchion and the boards that attach to it................... rave (reɪv) n1. a vertical sidepiece on a wagon [C16: modification of dialect rathe' date=' of uncertain origin]
  8. Thanks - That's useful. After some thought it seems that each leg had a locking pin, held in place by split pin and a safety hook to keep the leg in the up position, with c3/4" holes in the tube for the up and down positions. I'm guessing the screw type locks dispensed with the two holes in the tube, but retained the safety hook. Just need to find out how all the chains were attached at the front - perhaps the holes for the rings to secure the keeper chains have been welded up. At the back presumably they used the bolts that secured the tube bracket to the frame. Inevitably I suppose d
  9. Had all the steel cut and/or bent at the local fabricator/steel stock holder to match the originals - they have a press to bend metal which is digitally controlled. It can even manage the c-section needed at either end of the tailgate. They also fabricated the brackets for the handles for me
  10. Trailer neck virtually completed. Just needs drilling off for the towing hitch, the crush tubes adding and then the end plate can be welded on. After that it's a case of grafting onto the existing frame. It's resting on the simple jig we used to build it - four angle brackets screwed to some wood.
  11. Finally got the rest of the metalwork to enable us to rebuild the neck of the trailer. Still wondering where to put the T plate though - on the rear boards or in the original position on strips welded to the RH rear rave. Can anyone tell me the position of the holes in the two support legs on the GS trailer. I'm looking for the dimensions from the floor, as well as confirmation of the length - it seems around 30-31". Also can anyone post a photo of the pin that secures the leg in the up or down position. I'm assuming it's just a piece of rod with holes drilled in it for the attaching c
  12. I have a British YH jeep as well - 40YH40 - ex airborne, ex M1501912 - one of the M numbers reserved for rebuilds sk
  13. First r/os corner replaced - only three more corners, four mudguard brackets and the complete neck to fabricate before I can start putting the trailer back together again and fit the woodwork. It will be drilled off as the woodwork is fitted
  14. Maurice - thanks for that Might see if I can buy some cheap cutting mats off a market stall or the like to cut down and use as a substitute. Seems more manageable than a cut down inner tube
  15. When I got some replacement mudguards for my GS trailer, they came with the remains of the brackets to which they were attached. Between the curved plate attached to the brackets and the top surface of the mudguard there appeared to be a packing much like hardboard. Was this common on all the trailers with curved mudguards - and is there a modern substitute which will not act as a moisture trap and start the rusting process all over again? Thanks
  16. Thanks Rob - much appreciated! Current tyres of that size have a diameter of 25.5" - is that about the same as for the original wartime tyre? (Edit) Seems it is so that's now resolved sk
  17. Were the standard and airborne versions of the 6lb anti-tank gun fitted with the same size of wheel/tyre combination. The standard piece had 8.25-10 tyres - was this the same for the airborne version? Thanks sk
  18. i don't know if anybody is interested but I've had an original tailgate key scanned and have had a small batch laser cut from 3mm plate. Cost is £6 each - which is what they cost me - plus postage. If you're interested pm me.
  19. if needed you can also get replacement clevis pins and yokes for the brake rods from Paul Beck - I went for the UNF version (although BSF LH & RH threads also available) as I was starting from scratch. - as well as the brake adjuster I had replacement axle u-bolts made at the place where I had the springs refurbished: http://www.midlandmotorsprings.co.uk/ Just left a severely corroded example with them as a pattern. Wasn't cross drilled for a castellated nut but i will use a pal nut instead. Shouldn't think the place has changed since the 1930's - so imperial measurements are n
  20. Might be worthwhile checking for corrosion behind the spring hanger castings - there is an cleverly designed moisture/mud trap between the two bolt holes on the bottom of each casting........
  21. For me Plus Gas eventually worked where WD40 wouldn't touch it. I think mine had been in a hedge bottom for about 40 years. Interesting to see the bare frame of a Mortar trailer - it seems that the base frames of both the Mortar trailer and the GS trailer are the same standard design with the vertical raves added later according to purpose. That explains the curious extra front frame on the GS trailer. That would make sense if the GS trailers and Mortar trailers were built in the same contract - the manufacturer could just churn out a standard base frame without the need to take accoun
  22. if you assume 2 litres of paint are needed it's about 150.........
  23. They are. Got my example from Libor at Mirror Models a week or so ago - what with the forthcoming airborne jeep and 10cwt lightweight trailer from Bronco, modellers of 10cwt trailers have never had it so good.....
  24. I scaled the dimensions up from the photographs - can't vouch for millimetre perfect accuracy but it must be somewhere near Overall width = 5.5", overall length = 15.5", overall height = 6.5" Made from timber 5.5" wide and 0.5" thick top sides and bottom = 4 lengths of 15.5", ends = 2 lengths of 4.5". These dimensions mean that the box could be made from a single 6' length of timber Metal angle ends = 6" long by 1.5" wide - bolt holes 0.5" from edge or 1.0" from corner I think there seems to be angle iron internally along the sides at the bottom - secured by 3 coach bolts
  25. There is a "new" picture of a jeep towing a 10cwt GS trailer on the British vehicles forum http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?34395-British-D-Day-markings
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