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simon king

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Everything posted by simon king

  1. Rupert, Send me a PM on here and we will sort something out. I have a plentiful supply remaining.
  2. Another milestone in the ongoing restoration. First trial fit of the new canvas from RCH Canvas. A few adjustments are needed but nearly there for what is quite a complicated piece of canvas with lots of straps, leather patches and speaking tubes
  3. Thanks - that’s good to know and easily resolved. The glass seemed too loose in the frame without some sort of packing As a matter of interest, are those two-pin sockets just standard pre-war domestic 240v Bakelite items
  4. Been there, done that, but the glass seems quite loose in the outer frame. Did you find any cork gasket or packing?
  5. Is it the Deelen dump in the Netherlands? I think the originals of these photos are in the Dutch national archives
  6. Guy this is what I did with some Perspex within the existing control box shell….
  7. MWs (and MWRs) have a circuit diagram printed onto a thin metal plate riveted on the underside of the bonnet. Over the years this faded to the point where effectively it was a bare sheet of metal with a hint of faint lines representing the circuitry. Tasker and Co have now reproduced these plates. The picture show the new and original wiring diagram plates for my MWR. The blue cast is a protective film to be removed before fitting.
  8. Guy, the MWR has an ammeter adjacent to the control box and within in the circuit for the auxiliary dynamo/control box/charging board. Is there the same in yours?
  9. Got the rear hubs and wheels on today. The wheels are painted in the nearest modern match for SCC1A (VanDyk Brown) as part of the disruptive/countershading Mickey Mouse scheme. It can also be seen on the lid of the footstep generator storage box, as per the factory photos.
  10. Had those transfer sets printed professionally. The transfers that were available at the time were for Mk III British sets that had had the B sets stripped out, so I needed to create the lettering associated with the B set by copying the individual letters from other labels in the set. Then sent them off to Fantasy Printshop
  11. Chris, that’s useful to know, although I seem to recall as that’s how it came to me as I only removed the front plate to replace the clear plastic window with an newly moulded example and then repaint. The end cap was a replacement I acquired for the particular configuration required and I remember painting it in a slightly different grey to reflect a different manufacturer. With that cut out it was possible only to fit it in that one way.
  12. Everything restored, home printed transfers for the variometer and control box lettering. Smash moulded a new window for the variometer as well.
  13. Hello Chris that was the configuration that I used when I restored the WS19/sledge/table at the beginning of this project. It was impossible to slip the metal tab into the slot in the end of the variometer end cap as this had been previously messed about with. From what I recall, the antenna base socket passes through the Tufnol insulator and is secured with a shallow nut Result below, when I tried the A set antenna in the ground role. It seems that the lead to the golf bag antenna in the ground role and to the roof mounted antenna in the vehicle role must also fit into that same base socket.
  14. Presumably gaiters and belt perhaps with the Pouch, MT, effectively a standard pouch with a tab on the back at the top to allow it instead to hang from the webbing belt. Rest probably stashed around the cab.
  15. Remember going to an AGM when AVM Johnnie Johnson presided.
  16. Thanks Chris, I saw this picture of the variometer attached to the bottom of that inverted pyramid, which spurred that comment, admittedly in a restoration though. That configuration would only work if there was no intention to use the 19 set on the sledge as a ground station. The “factory” photo of the rear seems to show a pigtail to secure an aerial lead in that location. There are also a number of other fittings for which we do not know the purpose. The table is clearly designed to take a number of different sizes of sledge as there are a number of metal protector strips screwed to the table and there are two oblong frames screwed to the top of the table at the back and a further one on the floor next to the operator If I could not find pukka battery leads, I would reproduce them, but originals would be welcome
  17. So …are the tie downs surface mounted -or are there recesses pressed into the floor? thanks
  18. Thanks Clive, I appreciate your comments I was looking for a photo of the floor showing the position and appearance of any tie downs and drain plugs in the floor of the early Mk I FV2301A trailer with the X pressings in the sides. The drawings you mention seem to show a number of (?)d-ring tie downs and other items, which I took to be drain plugs, beneath the duckboards.. I was also wondering if the join between floor and sides and between sides/front/rear panels was beefed up in any way.
  19. Hi need a bit of help. Has anyone got a picture of the floor of an FV2301A trailer by Sankey/Brockhouse? thanks!
  20. Thanks Chris I am always in the market for a tuning wheel, for the restoration of a second set. The inverted pyramid is actually a mount for a variometer in some different WS installations. As you say perfectly positioned to take chunks of flesh out of the scalp as I know to my cost on a number of occasions. The roof plates are pre -drilled to take a number of different aerial mounts, according to the WS fit. As a result the standard B set post mount and the A set acorn, the latter with a “doughnut” mounting plate will be fitted to the roof. These are fitted over leather patches in the canvas roof, with rolled blinds to close off the holes if the mounts are removed. I’m still lacking the doughnut mount for the A set acorn but it is of no import as I have had some thick rings laser cut. They will not be seen on the roof.. The four batteries are the standard wooden boxed 100 - 125 Ah batteries. I have reproductions for the time being, but these will be replaced in due course by originals or better reproductions. More pressing issues at the moment though…
  21. Painted the wheels in SCC1A today, as a first step towards an SCC2/SCC1A (brown/dark brown) Mickey Mouse scheme. The generator box cover is just placed on the tailgate to get an idea of the likely contrast between the two colours.
  22. Spent a while working under the truck, cleaning , de rusting and priming the underpinnings, chassis, axles springs etc. Needed a break as I emerged, blinking, into the daylight so… Fitted the last of the rear mudguards Bins primed, painted in inaccessible areas and now bolted in for good. The tilt frame just needs priming and then all the interior, front and rear is good to go for final colour. Had a bit of spare paint so I laid it on the rest of the tailgate and spare wheel carrier to give me a further psychological boost.
  23. It’s still as bad as ever for me. Don’t bother coming here as much as I used to because of the annoying ads. It now actually takes some time to search though all the cr@p littering the page to find the important stuff I come here to read
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