Zero-Five-Two

OK, so I made a pigs ear of submitting the yesterdays post :red::red::red: I managed to get the photos in on the second attempt. Many thanks to Joris for advice on where I went wrong. Couple more pics here. Oily wheel hub awaiting cleaning and new seal Nice new shoes

Plan Z then, forget painting, strip out brakes and free off, shouldn’t take too long, just release them so it can be moved. Not on your life, as you can see from the photos, they don’t appear to have been working for some time. I know it hasn't moved for 5 years, but I didn't think they would be that bad. Nearside first, jack up, wheels off, drums off, shoes off. No! not quite like that, seized linkage is holding shoes on, drums wont move even slightly. Move goalposts again. Strip out seized linkage first, easier said than done. Much cursing and swearing, heating and cooling, and several cans of penetrating fluid, eventually unhooked enough to remove the bulk of it. Still came out in a big lump Drums eventually pulled off revealing a lot of rust and a collection of spiders that even the British Museum would be proud of. All had to go, thousands made homeless as they say. Underneath the cobwebs, there is still a reasonable set of brake shoes which have cleaned up quite well and will do another turn once everything else has been cleaned and refurbished. Then the off side, easier now all the linkages have been stripped away. Drum removal reveals one good set of shoes and one oily mess. New hub seal required. Hub removal is a good game, not one for the faint hearted Four and a half inch A/F nut needs Four and Half inch spanner!! Not quite Snap On, but it works. Quality Engineering :D Took several major swipes with a 14lb sledge before it moved, but once cracked off it was easy enough to turn by hand. I'm sure it shouldn't be that tight, anybody know how tight it should be? All bits back home to the shed for cleaning and painting First item off the production line Amazing what you can do with a wire brush and a bit of emery cloth.......................... oh,and a grit blaster, hot parts washer, spray gun... Fortunately there's a nice man on flee bay selling new hub seals, brake shoe return springs are the same as fitted to AEC buses, so a new set of them are on the way as well and with a bit of luck over the coming bank holidays I might get back to plan A and start painting. There's just one other thing. Somewhere in these nettles is a spring clip from one of the brake cam rods. I haven't quite plucked up the courage to stick my hand in there to find it. Still haven't in 2014

Don't know why the photos didn't come out. Hopefully one of the Mods will sort it out for me, just sent them a begging letter

About due for another progress report on the old Militant. Weather has picked up and lighter evenings means much can be done. 90% of the electrics are finished and working. Thanks to a bit of advice from forum members, even the fuel gauge works. It is, as suggested, somewhat inaccurate. More like a swingometer with readings "somewhere in the region of". Engine runs sweetly, air builds up, lights, indicators, wipers, washers, hooter, all systems go. Nearly ready for a run round the block. Time to think about the exterior paintwork. Brush painted Zinc Oxide may be good at keeping the tin worm at bay, but it’s not quite the finish I am looking for. Need to move it round a bit to get better access for spraying. Off we go then, start up, build air, dip clutch, engage gear, wont move, engine stalls. Try again, more revs this time, nothing! Right, teddy out of cot, low ratio and bags of revs, make it have it and force the thing to move. Still nothing, except for that smell you get when the clutch gets a bit excited. Oh Poo!! Best not do that anymore :-( Quick inspection revealed problem, rear brakes seized solid. Should really have noticed this before when I was building the air up and fixing the leaks. Stamp on the brake pedal and look out of the back window, nothing is moving.

Sad state of affairs when TV comes before MV. You ought to be able to get councelling for it, or at least some tablets

Looking good

Stage one of the new confidence course

Have you just accquired it, or did you just get a chance photo?

Thanks for the reply Mike, it confirms what I thought. At a rough guess, the greasers have been over used, once or twice, by over enthusiastic drivers. It did strike me as odd, I have never come across an air brake chamber full of grease. Still they don't seem to have suffered because of it, and still work fine. Thanks again

Anyone know where I can lay my hands on a Service Schedule (or copy of one) for a Mk1 Militant. I've got the operators manual and a parts list, but need a service schedule to help with the restoration.

I am currently stripping down the rear brakes on my Mk1 Militant, and on removing the brake chambers I have found they are filled with grease. Anyone know if this is normal, or have I got a major problem? There are 2 grease nipples on each end of the chambers, so it maybe right, but I have never seen anythikng like it before. Any suggestions

Don't knows about anarchy, more like civil war. Only it wont involve race or religon, it'll just the good, honest taxpaying types against the thieves, spongers and general toe-rags

Very nice work there, welcome aboard

Couldn't agree more, 9 times out of 10 the scrap yard is little better than those who are doing the thieving in the first place. Always cash and no questions. Round our way they are even nicking the drain covers from the streets!! And the local plod seem to be powerless or unwilling to do anything about it. If they can't nail the nomad transit drivers because they dont actually live anywhere, they should shut down the scrapyards For those of us who have no more security for their precious MV than to try and hide it round the back out of sight these are worrying times.

Thanks Andy and Chris for the advice, it seemed a reasonable sequence to me, but I wanted a second opinion before I put 24volts through it and fried the whole lot. Will have a go at the weekend and will let you know. Thanks again

Thanks for the reply Artistsrifles, and you are right, there is a second gauge on the side of the tank, and it is spot on with what is in the tank. Be nice to get the dashboard one working as well, if only for show. Of course there is always the foolproof method of dipping a broomstick in the tank, works every time :-D:-D:-D

Can anybody help me with the wiring on the fuel gauge for my Militant? The sender unit has 5 connections, marked as 1, 2, 3, 6+, 7-. See photo The gauge on the instrument panel has 4 connections labeled as Fuel 1, 2, 3, + Any ideas

Beast and a half that one. I take it the end with the cage round it is the front??

Know the feeling about the diesel. There's a gang by me doing the bio stuff for less than £1 a litre. Ideal when you only get 8MPG

Just finished reading thread, Good record of the trials and tribulations of owning an elderly motor. Love the Utube bits as well. Fine standard of work well done Have you got your registration sorted with DVLA now? P.S. Nice view from your driveway:D

No idea on D4 serial numbers etc, but I am proud to say I did the restoration work on the one in the museum way back in the late eighties. I put that green tape on the electrics. Best of luck with your search

Bit of a long shot, but you could try the RE Museum. 51 Squadron RE claim to be a very sociable bunch, they held an old boys reunion in Chatham only last week. The museum may be able to give you a contact number for the old gang who may remember your motor, have photos etc. 51 Squadron still exist, they are an airbourne unit now and about to finish a tour in a hot sandy place. You might get a bit of info from them

Get it repaired, there's plenty of companies around who specialise in tank repair. It is a regular thing for trucks and buses. Not too costly either. There is a gang near me who can make a complete new tank for £250 ish, repairs range from £50. Try Yell.com

Nice shiney bits, Will make a good sound too:-D:-D:-D

Excellent clip