deadline

The TMs have them, but in grayscale. No a lot of color in an open cab. The SNL-G-508 has probably the most detailed drawings... but other than OD, black gauge faces and white lettering not much color to be had. Are you looking for something specific?

While the factory may have made batches of 100+ gallons at a time, I see absolutely no need for 'matched' paint. There are plenty of factory pics of just off (and many still on) the assembly line with runs, sags and variations. While today many go overboard with epoxy paint, and trying to match tints and shades, the reality was that most opened the can(s) and started spraying. Army Motors (the real one, not the MVPA one) had extensive painting and prep articles (as well as paint care) to address these issues. I have several issues of Army Motors available for download at http://www.tm9-801.com/ArmyMotors/index.php

I have a searchable TM9 online. Go here: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/searchfiles.php type in 'wiring' download the single page as a PDF or use the link to download the entire 44 TM9 Nifty little thing to have

About 5 gallons (appox 10l) sounds right to start with. 2 gallons for primer and the rest OD. I would expect to have a gallon or two left over. Typically I thin 25-40% with xylene (depending how fast I want it to dry) so you are really going to have more paint than you start with). A jeep uses less than a gallon. Two coats of primer (I used red oxide enamel, some folks go for epoxy based) and 2-3 coats of OD and thin the last one out really good for a flat finish.

babelfish translated it to: bunch depot I be that is simply a literal translation... my guess is that its to tell the driver what depot/parking area to return to. I have a Dutch CCKW TM and I'll check that to see if its noted anyere.

Well, no. depending on how exact you want to be. In 42 the stencils were not the same font. The 1's 6, 5 and 3 were different (maybe more). Also the 'break' used to keep the oilboard in shape were not present. Look up some google images from 1942 and you will see the differences.

It would be great to get a frame number and pics of the data plates. Also some engine shots... if the engine bay is as original as the rest of the truck it could answer a lot of questions. Great find!

After you get it all cleaned up they do make rubber caps for the nipples to keep them clean. Not 100% accurate but will save your fittings and parts from dirt and debris.

There are no thrust washers on the input/main shaft. The only wear point is the main shaft where the tip goes into the input shaft (the 13 needle bearings). The only thrust washers are on the idler/counter shaft (at the bottom of the tranny). The TM lists the most common causes for popping out of second gear: Bent fork Weak poppet sprint Worn Gear But to add to that any part that touches those is worth looking at (ie a shift rail may have worn ridges at the shift detents, the spines on the gear where it contacts the main shaft might be worn etc).

If its popping out of gear something is loose (worn). Shift forks (bent or the pads are worn) is also a common cause. My tranny was popping out of 2nd I did three things (I have no idea which one fixed it, but it is fixed now) 1 New input shaft 2 New small parts kit 3 New mainshaft I measured the shafts as per the TM and both were way out of spec (the previous owner had a bushing in the input shaft). Now I am good in all gears.

How much heat do you all use??? Grease will melt LONG before you get anywhere near the annealing temps for brass or spring steel. I would also look at your grease gun... a grease gun has the ability to produce several hundred psi (many over 1000psi) to get that grease to move. Is your grease pump in good working order? Easiest is simply replace the nipple. But unless the grease has sat for a long time or been exposed to high temps it should not clog a passage.

I can send you enough of the proper wire and loom to do a harness... but no connectors. PM me if you are interested... maybe $5US + cost of shipping.

The cotton loom is black. My truck still has original cotton loomed wiring and its simply black cotton loom. The other harnesses (dash, frame) are black with white double tracers and to be 'correct' you would need to find a place with a braider that can replicate that pattern. If you have a copy of the TM9 they do show all the harnesses and details the correct color/tracer. If you need a free copy of the tm9-801 its available on my web site http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-801/index.php The wiring is readily available. I got mine from http://www.riwire.com for about $1 per foot. The hard part about the regulator/genny harness is are the flag terminals. They are not made anymore and unless you can use your originals, it will look funny to the trained eye. I started to detail my genny harness construction here: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=362 I have all the wires and just need to post the pics when I get some free time.

Drive it flat... won't hurt it for a short distance.

This is purely for discussion, as I have no direct experience with British lubricants. Some EP lubes are only detrimental to yellow metals at elevated temps. One lube I came across was safe for yellow metal as long as the temp of the oil was less than 250F in use. Above that point it became acidic and did damage copper based parts... but below that set point it was completely fine. I'm sure none of us want to dig that deep into a lubes properties... so if a chap gives you advice and its seems sound, follow it. Chances are that even if you did find a specification that made a previously 'unsafe' lube 'safe' the chances are that you would still get resistance to using it because of what 'they know'. Well, let try out some google-fu and look up the spec: members.iinet.net.au/~dgrev/dhmg/fer-oils.html "OEP-220 O-220 CS3000B Gear oil. SAE 90. Automotive hypoid gear units, heavy duty industrial enclosed gear units, steering gears, fluid lubricated universal joints automotive eqpt. May not be suitable in systems containing bronze or other copper alloys. (ES= O-226)" Emphasis is mine. "May not?" Well, Maybe! A little search revealed that OEP-220 is designated as MIL-PERF-2105 is US Miltary use (http://www.fpcfilters.com/products/manufacturers/royal/roycocross/) The spec sheet for MIL-PERF-2105 is here (http://www.everyspec.com/MIL-PRF/MIL-PRF+%28000100+-+09999%29/MIL-PRF-2105E_5290/) And para 3.4.8 says "Copper Corrosion The oil shall minimize copper corrosion. Satisfactory performance shall be demonstratted when the oil is tested in accordance with 4.1.1 table II (ASTM D 130) for 3 hours at 121 +1C and exhibits copper strip discoloration not exceeding ASTM 2a when compared to ASTM Copper Strip Corrosion Standard" ASTM D 130 rates lubes as 1a the best, and more damaging the higher the number/letter. But 2a seems acceptable as long as you are under 121C Also, it notes that MIL-PERF-2105 has been superseded.. so better oils are available.

"10 ton bottle jack that I sit on a 4"x4"x6" wood blocks" The wood is UNDER the jack. The jack SITS ON the 4"x4"x6" wooden blocks. Wood is quite strong in compression and I have a TM that shows several field expedient methods of jacking a CCKW with a single wood A frame. Its quite interesting and if you have a winch version it shows you have to lift the entire truck with A frames on both ends. With a steel plate (say 1/4 or so inch think) you can put the jack under the wood (with the steel really only there to keep the head of the jack from crushing into the wood). I've helped a fellow lift a HOUSE with nothing more than a bottle jack and some 4x4s.

The largest issue with jacking a cckw is that nothing is very close to the ground. Even the axles can be above the extended reach of most jacks. You didn't mention what you wanted the jack for.. changing tires or swapping axles? I have a Sears Craftsman 10 ton bottle jack that I sit on a 4"x4"x6" wood blocks that I stack as I lift the frame. You also need much larger jack stands (height wise).

Does anyone know of an outfit that is repro'ing these batteries? They are the old 3 cell 6v batteries used in WWII.

Beg to differ. EP oils CAN be used with yellow metals. Can *ALL* EP lubes be used? No, but if they cannot it will say so on the container. The specific test is “copper strip corrosion” (ASTM D130). This tests how chemically reactive an oil is to copper and copper-containing alloys. For gear oils, a 1a rating is typically a good indicator that the oil is chemically inert, while higher ratings (such as 1b or 2a) might indicate possible problems when used in certain gearing at elevated operating temperatures. Often, a lubricant manufacturer will specifically state “this oil should not be used in gearboxes containing yellow metals”; other times, the manufacturer will simply state that the oil is appropriate for “steel-on-steel” applications – the implication being that they should not be used in situations where the ring gear is brass or bronze. You also cannot rely on GL-5/MT-1 specs, or even GL-4 becuase there can be additives (sulfer based) that will still damage copper based metal. There are some myths out there from very early issues with GL-5 oil. If anyone has a brass synchro 'eaten' by a modern EP oil I like to see a pic.

Title says it all. Anyone know of a museum that has, or claims to have an ORIGINAL condition CCKW? Looking to get some info and pics.

Does anyone have an ORIGINAL oil filter on their CCKW? I would like to see what the decals say. Original CCKW oil filters were white with decals. If yours is black its a replacement.. I have plenty of those. Please post or PM me for my email.

No really thrilled by this. Another excellent use of taxpayers money by local government. There are dozens of more adequate vehicles. I'm sure you've already learned that the inside is cramped the drivers view is very limited (sides, rear). I am not impressed by LEO trying to imitate the Military. If they want to drive HMMVWs join the Army or Marines. Enjoy your toy... but I would rather a Halftrack for the price.

If it will hold 2000lbs, yes Hardest part about moving a bed around is that the longitudinal sills that rest on the frame require a solid bed to rest on (or it you are lucky enough to get a trailer with purlins at just the right spacing). If you take off the sills, then you have the sill brackets hanging down and the bed becomes very hard to secure. For all but the very early welded all steel beds can be taken apart. Its not very hard and you can lighten the load significantly if you think weight is an issue.

I have a a composite and a wooden bed and also have had an M35 steel bed.. best guess is approx 2000lbs total.

Yes, thats a BC-510/620 http://www.radiomilitari.com/bc620.html The most common radio on restored jeeps is the BC-1306.. but lots of different radios were used depending on who was on the other end and what freq's they used.