earlymb

I don't think many people outside the USA will agree with you. There is no reason to have a 'right to bear arms' in this time and age. I am certainly not against the responsible and regulated ownership of firearms by civilians but the thought that just about everyone has the right to own a gun is just scary. You only have to look around in traffic... Anyway, I'm pretty sure this whole topic is going to be a 'yes-no' one where no-one will be convinced to change position due to arguments, so I'm going to leave it at that.

I would continue sanding the sides of the hood till the OD, you never know but it is possible the numbers were removed before the first civilian coat of paint. I think I might see the trace of an 'S' on that close-up pic, on the OD part just right of the screw? Ditto on the electrolysis, it's perfectly save as long as you do it in a well-ventilated area away from any igniters as the vapour is flammable (Hydrogen), I have done it many times and you probably have everything you need for it already at hand. It's a slow process and the used soda solution is a perfect garden fertilizer as it doesn't contain any chemicals but it does have plant nutrients. Just remember it will also strip any paint on the items.

Gently sanding the sides of the hood by hand is the way to go, you never know what it might reveal. The old layers of paint are also fun to document. Up to 1945 the number applied at the factory was in dove-grey and then usually re-applied in white in the field, but sometime in 1945 the factory switched to white so depending on that date you might find traces of that dove-grey number too.

Most parts dealers will have wiring harnesses from Seal Tested; you'll need the one for the rotary light switch and there are versions that already have been converted to double stop- and taillights. You might have to change wiring for the black out lights yourself by adding a blinker and switch to it to turn them into indicator lights.

Anyone know of another surviving Fordson WOT 1 tanker/fuelbowser? Sorry for the small pic.

M1910 Pick Mattock, these were issued one or two per platoon instead of the normal shovel in both WW1 and WW2. General issue and certainly not a specific 'airborne' item. Not rare, in good but used condition I would say it's worth about £25 without cover. Those are around, dated from WW1 to Korea.

I would start with soaking all bolts, nuts, screws etc. with penetrating oil and give it time to soak in. Also, use zip-lock bags to keep bolts, nuts and small parts in and write on them what the location of those parts was. Remember to pay attention to the bolt heads and try to save any original ones, they are hard to replace. Ofc keep making photos.... all lessons learned the hard way :)))

You could consider electrolysis to remove all paint, although this is not suitable for brass etc. This process is mostly used to remove rust but will take care of paint too.

That being said, what are practical things to do to 'convert' standard vehicles to this poison? I guess changing the fuel pump membrane for an E10-resistant one and draining the carb every time you put it away? I'm not sure if you can actually nullify the effects of ethanol with an additive, although some of the Premium fuels (98) reportedly have 5% or even no ethanol added at all... Might be worth checking the websites of various suppliers to see which ones.

I might have been wrong with this as it seems some 1945 MB's were already fitted with sprocket gear blocks too!

If the tank has rust on the inside but is not rusted through, electrolysis might be a good cheap and simple way to clean it, followed by a coating if needed.

http://jeepdraw.com/PART_COLOURS.htm Have a look here, maybe it will help?

It seems the ridge on the block between waterpump and head is approx. 8 cm wide, which indicates it has a gear- and not a chain distribution, which is a post-war feature. On the WW2 engines with a chain distribution this ridge is only about 3 cm wide, hence my question if it is the original block although I could be mistaken. Also, have a look at your inlet manifold. It seems to lack the two vacuum inlets at each outside corner. Check if it has 'A-1166' casted at the underside. If it has it could be a early manifold used only on very early production jeeps and quite sought after!

If you post some pics of the area of the block around the waterpump we'll know more. The head is post-war but that's easy to change. Also, study the bolts! Original ones are usually marked (I think 'EC' for later Willys?) and will be an indicator if parts have been removed/replaced. Original bolts are a premium for a restoration so try to carefully salvage and re-use as many as you can. Apart from the already mentioned sources, there is a wealth of information to be found here: http://jeepdraw.com/

Welcome to the forum! Nice jeep; but be sure to get the books and study before you start tearing it apart. My first advice (apart from getting the manual) is to make pics of every detail before you touch it. It seems to be in good, original condition. I think the engine is post-war CJ but it will work just fine in a WW2 jeep without any trouble. Good luck!

On the Dutch side, If it's registered and insured in the UK you can just drive it over or put it on a lorry, no special license or permit is needed. The new owner can apply for a Dutch registration with the British documents and a bill of sale.

The 'April 1st Unit' isn't fully operational yet.

Just be happy they don't refer to it as 'a grey German Boaty McBoatface with big scary guns'...

http://www.bocn.co.uk/vbforum/threads/27615-Consolidated-List-Of-Containers

I think we looked at the same post. 😃 Size: Length 24.7" Breadth 15.25" Depth 10.125" Empty Weight 11 lb. 8 oz. Used for: 3-in. Q.F. howitzer Smoke Number Packed: 12 Gross weight: 144 lbs 4.5-in. B.L. gun Cordite W- 1st Charge Number Packed: 6 Gross weight: 57 lbs 4.5-in. B.L. gun Cordite W- 2nd and 3rd Charges Number Packed: 6 Gross weight: 90 lbs 5.5-in. B.L. gun 3rd and 4th charge Number Packed: 6 Gross weight: 88 lbs 6-in. 26-cwt. B.L. howitzer 4-lb. 6-oz. 4-dr charge Number Packed: 10 Gross weight: 80 lbs M.L. 8-in. projector, Generators Smoke, No. 23 Number Packed: 12 Gross weight: 100 lbs

I just got the exact same metal ammo crate, in original period paint with markings under & on top of it. It is intended for several types of cordite charges.

A list of patentnumbers, unfortunately there is no such number on the binos. A nice and original pre/early war pair regardless!

'DRP' stands for 'Deutsches Reichs Patent' whcih makes them WW2-era, not WW1

The colour most people agree on is (one of the) correct OD shade(s) is called 'MAT 1' and is readily available from most of the usual parts suppliers.

An armoured tent is called a bunker but the most popular US tent is the 'Small Wall'-model that will comfortly house 2 and, if needed, 3 people on cots. They are available as reproduction although I have no experience with these regarding quality. Example (currently sold out though): https://qmi.be/tentage/us-small-wall-tent.html