Pete Ashby

The latest addition of Windscreen arrived on this mornings post and very good it is too, so you should get that in a day or so I would think. Pete

On Milweb http://www.milweb.net/webvert/a1815 no connection with the seller whatsoever. Just seen this and think it would make an exceptional project for someone, almost tempted but I have enough to do :angel: Pete

Some how missed this thread until now, impressive work. Many years ago (somewhere around 30 :shocked:) the late Bernard Venners had a LRC and also the late Mike Hoffman come to think of it Bernard may have sold it to Mike I can't remember now David B may recall? Pete

I agree with Nick, it's the real deal, but it really is only good for a few parts sadly not worth the cost. £4.5K to £6.5K will get you a much better bet in the UK in terms a vehicle that will form the basis of a restoration project with a title and documentation for registration after restoration. It's a sad fact that they can't all be saved :cry: Pete

The British Army reg number is interesting if I am reading it correctly it is M4810227?. The Chilwell list for the Standard Motor Car Co has one contract for 'Car 4x2 Light Armoured mkIV contract number V5198 M number 4815604 to 4816409. However 4810227? does turn up as part of a block of numbers allocated to the 10th Indian Army for 'various types' 4786500 to 4811499 Pete

It was common practice while pass plates were mandatory ( there use seems to be phased out some time during 1942) to paint the arm of service and unit number on the opposite side to 'Pass'. The prescribed procedure was for the unit sign to be the normal side displayed. It was the drivers responsibility to turn the plate round to show 'Pass' in the event of a breakdown or other form of authorised halt. I read somewhere..... I'm sorry I can't remember the source..... that it was not permitted for a following vehicle to pass a halted vehicle unless the 'Pass' plate was visible and displayed. The rational behind this was to prevent following vehicles running into potential ambush situations. Pete

Congratulations to the Albion and and to you for saving her :yay: Pete

Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals without load this is the reading you need to start with.....what is the reading ? Pete

The best thing to do is work your way through the power feeds with a voltmeter in sequence starting with the battery to ground should be around 12.5 to 13 volts on a good 12 volt battery then work your way through the starter solenoid activation circuit and then the low tension ignition circuit remember to test both sides of the ignition switch ie input and then turn the switch on and test for battery voltage on the coil side of the switch. Pete

Here's a very nice D15 GS in Dutch? or Belgium? ownership, CMP Dodges are very handsome trucks I think Pete

I think sometimes people are not aware that that the Tank Museum library hold a large collection of soft skin factory and type acceptance photos in the archive always worth a look before trolling of to the ILWM. Pete

Yes that's the tanker Tony, hopefully I should have room in the workshop next year to start on the one I've got in storage unfortunately the Canadian tank is long gone but I have a British tank to fit instead Pete

Jason, the Chilwell lists do not give frame numbers linked to contract data for Canadian contracts, only number blocks are listed, however using John Farley's 'The Standard War Time jeep vol 2' it would appear that the contract you quote above would be for 1000 units in July 42 going to an ongoing Canadian contract. The production for July was MB frame numbers MB155101 to MB156497 =1396 units. The other 394 units going to an ongoing British contract SM2428 serials M4923602 to M4923996 =394 units (notice there is a discrepancy of 2 units here). Farley lists two known Canadian serial numbers from this July batch namely CM4231488 and CM4231785. The Chilwell list only gives the full allocation of 42##### number 4200000 to 4299999 this will cover all types of trucks so not much help to you I'm afraid. However if August 42 is looked at then contract 505 was still ongoing and two serials from that group of 700 units supplied are CM4232453 and CM4242123. Therefore it would be reasonable that your MB would be around the CM423#### range Pete

Over 20 years ago 900x16 run flats were on offer at £200+Vat each, to be fair they were new with the molding nibs but in those days it was nearly double the going rate. I couldn't begin to think how many were in the shed but they were on racks floor to ceiling round all four walls and three isles in the middle, there was little interest in selling to the MV world as apparently JCB 4x4 operators were the main source of revenue. Pete

I found this picture recently when I was faced with the same question as you Robert and I left the I terminal blank and it worked fine. Pete

Is this any help Robert ? Regards Pete

From this point on everything is a positive step forward in any restoration project. For me this is the most enjoyable part the grunt work is done and it's time to start adding the detail, every days work now has a visible positive return. Looking good :thumbsup: Pete

Good to see the Old Chap hasn't lost his touch Regards to you both Pete

Happy New Year to you to Chris, yes offer still stands, I'll have a look through my transmission spares in the next couple of days and PM you. regards Pete

Well good luck to the seller, but I am always left wondering who bids up to these inflated prices when a quick flick through the internet would set the bench mark for the vehicle.....sense money than more..... re-arrange as appropriate :-) Pete

If you can't locate one in Canada let me know I can probably supply you with a good used example. Pete

Nice work on the door frame keep the photos coming :thumbsup: Pete

I'm not sure it had a trade name Bob, but the galvanized sheet was either 18 or 22 gauge depending on application. The nearest you can get to it today is Zintec I have used it for a couple of jobs successfully, I would suggest that an etch primer is used before painting as I had an issue with paint bonding on one job. Pete

For a 6 volt system you need '0' or better still '00' gauge battery to earth and battery to starter cable the cable and fittings are available via the web from several vintage vehicle electrical suppliers sold by the meter make them up with soldered fittings and star washers where appropriate. A 12 volt conversion will produce a higher cranking speed however with regard to the lighting issue modern 6 volt Halogen or LED bulbs are more than adequate......... at the end of the day the choice is yours. The only comment I would make is to repeat the advice that has already been given namely 12 volts will not improve bad earths, bad wiring or tired electrical and/or mechanical components. Pete

What is the wheel rim for ? the WW2 US market is well catered for Pete