Pete Ashby

That's where I was going with that thought Clive,........ which would mean as the rotor slowly erodes the spark flare duration at the plug should get longer but the power of the spark will decrease ? Pete

Not off topic at all, very interesting in fact so what was the solution? was it a good old J8C?. One of the reasons for starting this thread was to prompt a discussion about a topic that causes by far the most problems for owners of older vehicles. The interaction and interdependence of HT ignition systems is perhaps the least understood of all systems on a vehicle. Pete

Interesting point Clive, which brings me to ask how the rotor/ terminal gap was determined in the first place, in other words there must be an optimum clearance that is/was calculated by the designers when producing distributors and that begs the question are all rotor/contact gaps the same when new ? Pete

Is this why the old metal shirt button attached in series with the HT lead is believed to be beneficial Clive ? Pete

Here we go Clive http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/resistorcapsandplugs.htm, I found the article while looking for some suitable plug caps for an on going project (not aeronautical I hasten to add much more hum drum and non military). I wasn't completely convinced by the findings so that's really what started me thinking and prompted my question here, have a read and see what your conclusions are. Pete

I think this question is possibly one for Clive to field but any one else please feel free to add your thoughts. I have just finished reading an article on the effect of resistor ( suppressor) spark plug caps on the duration and strength of the spark generated at the plug. The article suggests that by using internal resistor caps the duration of the spark flare is increased however, the strength of that spark is reduced. Further more the plug is more susceptible to shorting out as a result of either moisture, oil or fuel contamination. All very interesting theoretical stuff. However it struck me that this may be a contributory factor with bad 6v starting, the coil low tension voltage is sucked away by the starter so the high tension out put is lowered and the resistor in the plug cap drops the output even further resulting in a long duration low power spark or possibly no spark at all if the plugs are damp or the compression of the engine is high. I know all US 6 volt ignition systems had suppressed caps but I am left pondering if the use of non resistor caps may be beneficial by giving a shorter but more intense spark at the plug. Not good I appreciate for radio or TV reception........... comments and thoughts invited............ Pete

Looks very good is that an Auto Sparks loom ? Pete

Don't do it:stop: Pete

Ah now your asking Clive post war kit is not my strong point!, it was a FFW late 24V 109 affectionately known as Mr Scabby as result of the 10 coats of flaking IR paint. My wife used him as a general hack and to take the dogs out, when we moved to Wales he was SORN'd and we collected fire wood with him then he sat in the barn until someone offered me a a price. At this stage I can't remember if the alternator was 90 or 100 amp I have a feeling it was 90 amp ?. Sorry Post War Chaps, shameful I know, :blush:....... I did have the occasional pang of guilt if it's any consolation. Pete

That's what I thought Clive, I had to replace the module in my old 109 after a nasty hot electrical smell filled the cab one day and the charging light stayed on. I can't remember where I bought a replacement module from, it may have been Cradocks.

Isn't that fitted with a internal diode alternator ?? Pete

I see what you mean Clive, less of the pamphlet and more of the tome I think :-), there are some interesting topics covered. Pete

Welcome to HMVF Chris, I have always used good quality modelers enamel applied with a small piece of fine texture sponge (dish washing sponges are ideal). The key to prevent bleeding under the stencil is first to mix the paint well then pour a small amount onto a flat tin lid or pallet now dab it about with the sponge and let the paint start to tack off a little you do not want a puddle of paint you are aiming for a thin even coating of paint on you pallet (practice on a scrap piece will determine how long you need to leave it) then without loading the sponge too much dab off any surplus on to a board and then using a light action dab over the stencil making sure the stencil is held down firmly and not pressing too hard with the sponge at the edges one or two passes should do the trick let the first coat tack off (use a hair drier) before applying a second coat. Pete

Very true Clive, the two pamphlets look to be in nice condition what is the scope of the first (blue covered one)? Pete

:D:D:D excellent response, did he offer you a price for the farmers wife as well :rotfl: Pete

There is a post script to this story, after nearly two years and thanks to the persistent efforts of Nick Thomas at WW2 Jeeps rebuilt by the British Army (Face Book page), a key card for my GPW has now been found in the Deepcut records. The surprise was that it was a Canadian issue vehicle before being rebuild by the British and issued a rebuild number of M1502269. Another detail worth noting is that the vehicle was struck off charge on the 6th November 1957 and sold on the 13th November 1957 so it appears jeeps didn't hang around very long in those days either. Here's a copy of the key card that holds the details of my jeep (position marked with the yellow dots) Pete

Thanks to Nicks perseverance I now have a key card record for my GPW (see the amendment to my restoration blog) this is a registration that Deepcut were adamant that there was no surviving record for. So if you have a 1949 ERM number for your vehicle let Nick know he's a guy who won't take no for an answer :-) Pete

Good work I'm looking forward to more photos :thumbsup: Pete

Nice work, chasing the tin worm is always a slow process. I'm particularly impressed with how you formed the bulk head rain gutter , Iv'e stored that idea away for a another project...... thanks for posting :goodidea:. Pete

Ah right I see Steve, yes LAD could be a very sticky wicket indeed. It would be worth getting your Father's unit diary's they will give you a day by day account of location and work undertaken and some times considerably more information as well. Pete

That seems to be a very common theme Degsy, my Father's medals came in the post and spent the next 45 years in the unopened box in his shirt draw until I dug them out and mounted them with relevant corp badges and patches. He was happy to talk about his war service but as you have noted it was mostly good times and the vehicles he worked on. Pete

Couldn't agree more some of the best and most memorable times we've had in Normandy have been inland away from the beaches. Arm your self with some good in depth text books on the operation of your choice, do some prior background reading, take them and some of the excellent 'then and now' type publications with you and get off the beaten track with just two or three small to medium trucks so you can cover some ground easily. There is nothing like parking in a small village square for lunch at the local cafe, invariably one of the locals prompted by the site of the trucks comes by with a story to tell. Happy days the sun always seemed to shine (except for the Bayeux parade) Pete

Not butting in at all Degsy I'm very pleased you enjoyed the thread I felt they merited a wider showing and HMVF seemed the most appropriate platform given the direct relevance of the subject matter. The exercise books form one part of a much larger body of work I have been putting together, some as hard copy, some in digital format the final goal is to bring the whole body together in a digital format for my family, then I'll start on Grandfather's WW1 4.5 year service in the Ox & Bucks LI. It has taken me 18 years since my Father's death to get round to doing this and like all research projects it has generated a life of it's own and has taken me down some unexpected avenues and learning experiences. As an aside if anyone is thinking of doing a similar project on a relative I would urge you to start, there really is a wealth of information out there and a lot of it is now accessible through the web with records, photographs and forums that have contributors who are experts in their field of knowledge. A certain degree of lateral thought can be useful when trying to solve questions and looking for the answer in unexpected sources should be the norm, a seemingly unconnected 'one liner' in an obscure reference book or document can be the key you've been looking for. Good Hunting Pete

That's very interesting Steve, I assume your Father re-mustered when he joined the A/T regiment. Presumably this was a result of the losses incurred during the summer and autumn campaigns ? and as a result there was a trawl through 2nd and 3rd echelon units. That last 6 months of the war in NW Europe saw some of the most intense fighting of the whole conflict. If you have an interest in finding out more about his units actions I would recommend asking relevant questions on this site http://ww2talk.com/forums/ the guys on there helped me enormously in giving me leads and contacts. Here's to the memory of Cfn Herbert John Gray another 'ordinary man who did his duty' regards Pete

And to finish the man who produced the drawings: 5777663 'Ted' Ashby this photo was taken in December 1940 after he had been in the Royal Norfolks for 7 months. For those interested in uniform detail notice he is still wearing the peaked soft service cap and not the standard issue forage cap. Pete