Pete Ashby

Doe anyone have a supplier for Layrub couplings ?, I'm looking for 2 couplings on a 4'' (40mm) pitch @ 0', 90' 180' 270' Thanks Pete

Went on Saturday for the second time, excellent show from every perspective, the vehicles, the living history, amazingly detailed dioramas , excellent mock battle and last but by no means least the flying with Blenheim, Mitchell, 2x Mustangs, Hurricane, Yak, ME108, Spitfire, Seafire, ME109 Emil, and a number of bi planes all flying off a grass strip that you can stand close too. Well done the Victory Show :yay: Pete

All I would say is that I have never seen Rubberlites in that position on the top curve of the wing. My preference if using them would be to mount them in the factory position on the lower wing..... at the end of the day it's down to your clients decision if he's happy then that's fine . Pete

Just had an other look at the photos you posted when you first collected the truck Howard. I can see there are British Butler side lights on the wings this seems to be a 'field' mod carried out by the British for trucks that were issued prior to having the Rubberlite front markers factory fitted. I've seen the addition of these side lights on a number of early 11 cab trucks always in the same position on the top curve of the wing so I am guessing there was a field order issued for the modification either at the reassembly plant (Southampton or Slough ) or by local RAOC detachments. Pete

All 12 cab and some late 11's had the rear rubberlites fitted to the front wings to act as marker lights/blackout lights. The cable runs through a small diameter metal tube along the top of the wing i used them for indicators with orange bulbs. If fitted you should be able to see the mounting holes on the wing and a small hole in the side casing that the wire runs through into the engine bay. The air intakes should have a fine round mesh grill that is fixed with small dome head screws into the front panel the mesh fits between the panel and the intake scoop. Dirk had the intake mesh as NoS at one time. A couple of photos for the mesh and front side lights I fitted double filament brake and tail to both rear positions and then used another pair of rubberlites for the rear indicators with orange bulbs, from the factory it should be two on one side and one on the other. This photo should make it clear

Fuel filter would originally have been a Junior Military multi plate (identical to the jeep) fitted on the frame side rail under the cab but a modern in line will do the job just as well and will be easier to change when needed. Coming together now Howard looking very good indeed Pete

I've always used the backing up method, sometimes a couple of shunts forwards and backwards are required although running on the soft after shifting out is equally as good. Even the modern stuff can suffer from it, my L200 can be difficult to shift out of low 4x4 on occasion. Pete

Have a look at this for starters http://sucarb.co.uk/electric-fuel-pump-dual-polarity-6-volt.html there are others on the market if you do a search on the web. As for placement tucked up inside the frame rail away from exhaust and engine heat source is best on the common feed to the suction side of the manual pump. If you do a search on here I think I explained how the electric/manual pump system operates. Pete

Assuming you have the original go Devil or WoF equivalent engine and T84 transmission clutch pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing is available from all the usual dealers either as a complete kit or as individual items and are not overly expensive. Pete

I wired them to come on in the conventional manner with the front side lights and used that switch you mention on the dash to control a booster electric fuel pump that I installed under the cab in line with the mechanical pump for priming and hot starting. I would try Dirk for the sender unit I've had a look in the barn and I don't have a decent one mine are all take outs. Pete

Jobs a good'n Howard Pete

Very nice what year is it? Pete

Is that for the original 'drum' lights Howard? if so what iv'e done in the past on a couple of restorations of the early type light is buy a pair of new formed glass/reflector units that take bulbs with side light integral from one of the vintage lighting companies. By using the outer plug housing only on the drum light you can pass the main, dip and side wiring through and then use spades to connect on to the main and side bulb inside the drum. pete

Pleased it arrived safe, did it smell when you opened the plastic bag ? Pete

There are times in any restoration when you just need to sit back an enjoy the moment this was one of those moments....fitting my original NoS cab hood to the new bows..... makes it all worth while:) Pete

Looking good Howard... right decision to get a new chrome bezel:) Pete

Right got it now :blush:, yes your larger wheels will have an effect as you are very slightly gearing up at the wheel rim, the solution is to run up a bit harder in 3rd than you would normally. This is something that is sometimes missed when people fit larger tyres/wheels to up the top speed a little the drive line (gear box, transfer case and diff ratios) are then not matched to the new rolling radius at the axel. Within reason it's not a problem but you may well need to change the driving style particularly on the heavier trucks to compensate. Pete

Having re read your first post I'm not sure if you have a problem in 4th with not enough torque range or whether you are concerned because you think that the overall top speed is low? I would recommend you fit tyres/rims of the same size all round you will not be doing your drive line any favors running as you currently are. Regarding plugs and fuel which I assume is a separate issue to your speed question I have run with AC44's and Champion J8's both sets gave good service in the 216 engine, your right to use additive in your fuel unless you have hardened valve seats fitted. Pete

Hello Paul I take it you have the original 216 engine and Carter WO carb fitted? what size tyres are you running 1050 16 or something bigger? The C60L will be nearing top speed at 40mph the rated maximum speed in 4th high is 47mph but 30 to 35mph is much more comfortable and sustainable for all concerned Pete

Yes it was always an event to go and see Wally a real character, but only if you went armed with the correct part numbers !! and NOT on a golfing day, like you, happy days now long gone Pete

Try these people http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/ I've used them a lot over the years. I think you'll find something close to the bonnet side panel bead and tape among their extensive range. I wouldn't use sealants as they may cause problems with the paint finish, canvas or webbing strip is best Supper glued on and the bolt holes pushed through with a scribe. Pete

Tank is ready and waiting for you Howard just say when your man's coming. When I did my 12 cab I was fortunate to have rolls of black bituminous cork strip that I bought from Wally Wheatly (Nordian) years ago. The cork strip was for 13 cabs the 12's and late 11's seem to use bituminous cork, rubber, and bituminous canvas strip early 11's appear to be all rubber. If the joints are sealed as per factory the cabs are fairly squeak and rattle proof if the strip isn't used the squeaking/grinding creaking will drive you mad :nut: I took the asbestos motor linings out, made new staples from wire fitted them and bent them over so that from the cab it looked correct then impact bonded modern high insulation board to the inside of the panels. I can't now remember the name something like 'Asbestos Lux' it's used in boilers and cookers it's the correct thickness looks like the original and more importantly stops you cooking in the cab and burning your self on the engine side covers. Nice job Howard look forward to seeing the finished job Pete

Howard, are you using anti-squeak between the panels ? Pete

Inspirational now there's a thing Iv'e been called many things by many people Let us know how you get on regards Pete

What impressive powers of observation you do have...... full marks for spotting the numpty :blush:. It took me a little longer to figure out why it all worked just fine when I first assembled it and then wouldn't close properly when I fitted it on the truck as you point out when I reassembled the front frame I had turned the left hand bracket up side down soon sorted with no pinched fingers.......dammed difficult all this cutting edge technology. Pete