LoggyDriver

Very sorry to hear about the sad loss of your friend Clive. Please give my respects to his faimily and friends.

Great to see the IMMLC looking good. Certainly looks like a cracking show. Takes the memories back to when I was a DROPS op in the Army. I've still got my FMT600 if you need an operator!!

Thanks very much for your help. PM sent.

Thanks for all the positive comments guys. I'm a bit annoyed I didn't take more pictures, but you know how it is, you start chatting and then half the afternoon has gone.:blush: abn deuce, yes there was a lot of work that went on as you could still smell fresh paint. The quality of the vehicles was very good. It made me laugh when I went into the arena to collect my awards as the commentator said, "and here is the Bedford MJ just entering the arena, probably a lot cleaner than it looked in service" The truth is I haven't had chance to touch it yet as I've been doing the 110. The condition it's in is exactly as it was in service, so I do feel a little guilty winning the awards considering some of the work others have put in. But after 20 years it's nice to come away with something!:-)

Hi Richard, That's the kiddy. As mentioned my transfer box was replaced at ABRO Donnington a few months before release, so it hasn't seen any use apart from when I've had it. The retaining nut on mine has a shoulder like N.O.S. mentioned and you then have to hammer it into the keyway as a sort of locking tab. N.O.S. I did take the prop off the other day and had a look. The flange turns nice and freely on the shaft but there is end float and up/down and sideways movement of the flange. The shaft is solid with no movement. There is no oil leak so it must be sealed OK. I refitted the prop and then engaged 4x4 to see if the play was taken up when the front wheel drive clutch was engaged but the play is still there. When I looked at the 17 Port and Maritime Bedford yesterday the output flange was solid, so it definitely shouldn't have any play in it. As I said this is a new transfer box so I'm at a loss why it passed inspection at the builders with excessive play in it. I did notice this in the repair manual. The blue text refers to a spacer, do you think this might be the problem of a floating flange? The text in red I presume refers to the retaining nut that holds it all together? 61.3 Fit a new spacer, bore chamfer first, to the layshaft shoulder and check that the end float of the layshaft driven gear is 0.23/0.35 mm (0.009/0.014 in.). 62 Using jointing compound, assemble a new gasket to the attaching face on the transfer box casing. Assemble the cover squarely on to the dowels and fit the bolts after smearing them with jointing compound. Tighten the bolts evenly. 63 Using a tubular drift, install the layshaft front bearing in the transfer box front cover. The bearing locating ring must be in contact with the face of the cover. Position the washer on the front of the layshaft against the bearing inner race and install the circlip. Fig 23 - Layshaft front bearing installation ARMY EQUIPMENT 2320-H-100-523 SUPPORT PUBLICATION Chap 4 Sep 83 Page 13 64 Assemble the front wheel drive clutch to the layshaft, with the selector fork groove in the clutch to the rear. Fig 24 - Front wheel drive clutch installation 65 Engage the striking fork rod with the groove in the clutch, at the same time entering the rear end of the rod in the bore in the front cover. Fig 25 - Striking fork rod installation 66 Smear the layshaft cover oil seal with Rocol anti-scuffing paste and assemble the cover to the transfer box, using a new gasket. Install the striking fork and locking ball, spring and retainer. 67 Before installing the layshaft universal joint flange, place a new O-ring seal in the groove of the layshaft and smear the seal with gear oil. 68 Assemble the washer over the end of the layshaft, tighten the nut and secure by staking it into the slot in the shaft.

Also remember to leave a "garage door" at the front, where the vehicle can be driven out. When I was in the Army we used to do this. You can roll up the net in front of the vehicle and drive it out. They used to test how good ours was by bugging us out in the middle of the night. You can't escape if you have hessian and cam net all over the vehicle and can't see where your going.. I have a cam net that's big enough to cover a DROPS and load.

Thank you Rosie, There were some fantastic vehicles there and the Navy Jeep was just outstanding. Unfortunately I totally forgot to take some pictures yesterday as I was trying to convince a guy to sell me his M109 Reo so only got a few today. I'm just about to read about your weekend in the other thread. Hope you had a great time? Cheers Andy

Thank You Adrian. The guy in the RTR tie is the 2nd Viscount of Alamein, David Bernard Montgomery, son of THE Field Marshal Montgomery.

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Thank You very much Richard. In the 20 years I have been showing my vehicles this is the first time I've come away with anything, so it's nice to finally get something.:-D

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Not long been back home after three days at Trucks and Troops. The drive down took 3 1/2hrs due to traffic. The weather was pants on Saturday. Sunday was the best day and today wasn't bad, but chilly. I was well chuffed as the Bedford won Best Post War Heavy Vehicle and Best in Show Post War Vehicle. Here are some pictures.

Thanks for your replys N.O.S. The Transfer box is brand new so it should be OK, but it may have been put together roughly. The front diff end of the prop is fine, its the tranny end thats got play. I had a look at a "still in service" Bedford MJ which belonged to 17 Port and Maritime Regt today and the output on that was solid. When you undo the nut on the output flange, is it a left or right hand thread and is it removable insitue? Cheers mate.

I was under the Bedford last night greasing up for the journey down to Trucks and Troops today. When I got to the front prop shaft UJ at the Transfer Box end I noticed some play in the drive flange that comes out of the Transfer Box. The drive input and rear prop output flanges are nice and tight with no play, but the output flange to the front prop has quite a lot of play. I took that end of the prop off and had a look. The play goes in all directions, in/out, sideways and up and down. I tried to tighten the nut but it's not moving 1mm so re assembled the prop. The UJ on the prop also has play that end and I'm assuming this is a result of the play from the output flange? The Transfer Box is a BRAND NEW MOD FITTED ITEM two months before it was cast. There is no leak coming from the output. I looked at the parts manual for a look at the breakdown of parts and it looks like there is a front wheel drive clutch inside the casing. Would this be the cause of the play? So my question is, should this have play in it or not???? HELP:shocked:

I've done Trucks and Troops the last few years and decided to give it one more chance this year. If it's anything like last year then it will be Overlord next year!!

Took the Land Rover for it's annual medical and she passed again no problem. That's 12 years running she has gone straight through. I love my Landy...:iloveyou:

I can confirm that the book is being re printed as my mate is the author and has told me to mention it.

Are there any members attending Trucks and Troops at Beaulieu next weekend? I will be there, so come and say hello.:-)

26th & 27th June Newton Valence Farm Newton Valence Hants Contact: Mrs Freda Lawes The Laurels The Dene Ropley Nr Alresford Hants SO24 0BH

31st July & 01st August. Sickles Lane Kingsley Bordon Contact: Mrs Sylvia Haydon 01420 474298

04th & 05th September Langhurst Hill Farm Balls Cross Pentworth West Sussex. Contact Mrs Sylvia Haydon 01420 474298

Vintage Working Weekend. 11th & 12th September. Danebury Road, Longstock. Contact Dave Watts 01264 810421

I've finally finished painting the Land Rover. I gave it a second wet coat today and it's looking fab. All I need to do is put the bonnet back on, but I will let the paint harden and put it on tomorrow. The HMG paint is brilliant. I would definitely recommend buying your paint from them. The Satin finish is just right and it is touch dry in 2 hours. I will take some pictures of the Defender tomorrow after the bonnet has been put back on and before I rivet the number plates back on. I will put the spare wheel on the bonnet in a week after the paint has cured. Not a job I'd like to do every day as I'm knackerd now. Time for a beer!!:cool2:

I think you need a special wheel brace to get them off. If you can't get one in the UK, try Rudi or Reomie. Failing that Eastern Surplus will export you one. £60 though! http://www.easternsurplus.net/images/common_spares/lugwrench.JPG

Hi Ted. Sorry mate, it's too late, I've applied the Red Oxide ZP already. All went well apart from the roof, where it didn't apply too good. So I got a roller out and went over again. I was going to do the primer yesterday, but for some reason when I mixed the Thinners with the Red Oxide ZP Synthetic, it went all Cottage Cheesy. I was trying to mix with HMG 2611 Thinners (Spray 75) but it didn't work. So I went back down to the paint shop in Newbury this morning with the paint. He tried the identical Thinners and there was no problem, so I'm at a loss as to what happened. I mixed this Thinners with the Light Stone and it worked a treat. Considering the Light Stone is Synthetic, I havent a clue why it wouldn't mix. I bought another 5lts of Synthetic Thinners and this did the job. I then applied a coat of Light Stone. This paint is the Mutts Nuts mate. There are a few runs here and there as I'm no paint sprayer and it was outside, but it did cover the Red Oxide pretty well. I'm going to give it another coat of Light Stone just to make sure the jobs OK, but it looks pretty good. I've took some pictures and will up load them when the jobs finnished. Cheers Andy