paul connor

Hi, I'm aware you can break down a VIN number for the exact year and model from a Land Rover, but I require the actual month mine was produced. Can anyone shed light to if this is possible? I have the military history, which states my vehicle was pressed into service during February 1990, yet the chassis codes state it was built in 1989. I'm aware it was likely sitting before it was placed into service, but as I am due to re-register it in Germany I need the production date as I can get 'oldtimer' status and reep a few benefits such as reduced tax, and being classed as historic. Does LRover still hold such information, or can I only prove it was 1989, at some stage? As Germany will want to know what date, time and who put the last rivet in, as well as what tea he was drinking and if he was late that morning. Thanks Paul

Maybe ask the MOD directly via whatdotheyknow.com

Wolf wheels are just a variation on steel wheels. Stronger and look a bit different, as Sirhc said. As for tyes, tubes or no tubes.. pretty much lies with the tyre you choose. I have wolf wheels on my 110 and after the G90 Goodyears wore out I chose Copper STT Pro LT235/85/16 tubeless. Look good and suit the military 110, and also great on and off road. Although, as with many, quite noisy! But so is a land rover.

Do you have any pictures of the jig? I have sourced a very cheap NOS pressure plate, so will see if that does the trick. I hope so!

Thanks Ron!

Where can I find the connectors for these rear lights? They appear to be a Male bayonet style? Thanks Paul

Hi Phil, I did wonder that myself, but I was pretty careful to place the new clutch *Flywheel this side*, but I shall check again, as I swear the older I get the more I question what I am doing, as I do seem to make more mistakes when I was adamant I did it correctly! I guess I will find out; but it was clearly marked.

I have been offered a NOS clutch pressure plate, for pretty cheap, so that may be the better option. Having pondered this fault for a few hours now, you must be right. The only real moving parts are the clutch fork, which was not damaged, and the bearing and pressure plate. The uneven gap around the bearing I can see through the inspection hole furthermore suggests that. As the bearing pushing the plate operates the clutch, so as the clutch isn't disengaging it has to be those levers. The only adjustment is the linkage and that is at the most maximum setting, so the levers must be out of adjustment or the springs are shot. Thanks Richard, I shall also have a look in the right TM later on, and see if I feel purchase or tackling the plate is the best course. Of course, I was giving the original plate too much credit, as I have no idea if it worked before, it just appeared in good order.

Hi Richard, thanks for the reply. The clutch plate was an original and an engineering friend skimmed it, yet he did not dismantle it, so not sure how? I have just popped back to the vehicle and had a look into the inspection plate. It appears the levers on the pressure plate do not sit evenly on the bearing. It would appear one nearly touches and the other two appear to have a gap of around 5mm. Do you know if the lever adjustment is possible without the specialist tool needed, which is some sort of jig? I also adjusted the maximum amount of movement possible for the pedal. So it appears that even with this tolerance the clutch still drags/doesn't release when pedal is depressed. I have also just been searching on the internet and on a Dodge forum it states that some people have added 1/8th washers behind the pressure plate screws to gain more travel? This sounds like a bad idea to me? What is annoying is I initially fitted the clutch with the engine on a stand, which now will mean any work will have to be undertaken on the vehicle, which means fighting through the inspection port!

Hi everyone, I have what I think is a potential issue, but I thought I would brainstorm here to see what you all think. I have a Dodge WC54 I am working on, and I have installed a new clutch. The flywheel was skimmed, as was the clutch pressure plate, but this was minimal, more to clean. After installation of the gearbox today, I rotated the output shaft at the rear of the gearbox with the gearbox in neutral and it rotates freely with no noises or resistance. However, when I depress the clutch and rotate the output shaft, it rotates but sounds as if the clutch is still binding and giving resistance. I furthermore adjusted the linkage and no change, so how would I go about removing this issue, which I guess is binding? To summarise New Bork & Beck clutch disc. Skimmed flywheel Skimmed pressure plate Original release bearing that appears in good order. Issue When gearbox is in neutral the output shaft rotates freely with no issues, no resistance or noise. When clutch pedal is depressed and the output shaft is rotated it sounds as if the clutch is binding slightly, slight resistance on the shaft. I have adjusted the linkage to both extents of its travel, but alas cannot stop the clutch from binding with pedal depressed? Any ideas? as I'm positive if it is driven with the issue the clutch will slip or glaze very fast. My initial hunch is the forks on the clutch plate, maybe they are not contacting the bearing enough to disengage the clutch plate? Hopefully tomorrow I will have an assistant so I can check through the inspection port on the bottom of the engine

Hi all, I have an 110 that I changed the steering wheel on many years ago, as I really hated the old 1980's wheel it had fitted. I fitted a smaller wheel which has served me well, but now it must go, as I have the looming German TUV test coming. Why you ask? well, the new wheel would need to be certified and have paperwork, which it does not, so I have sourced a 36 spline (correct for 1989 but newer look) steering wheel, which is the later type with the bulging middle part. Anyhow, my question is thus! This has the classic de-lamination at the top of the wheel where the plastic has separated from the metal inside so it can be twisted back and forth. Can this be repaired and has anyone undergone such a repair? I was thinking of drilling small holes and injecting glue (epoxy) or slicing the rear open and the same operation. Any ideas? As I need a standard LR wheel fitted, and the old one from HMV Belfast that was originally fitted I threw away a long time ago. Many thanks Paul

Yes, its the eBay "bootsale" app. Not much to go on with the advert though!

Just in case for the people that know me, I now live in Germany! in case the above made little sense.

I know a few people here in Germany with armour. You are allowed to own it, and trade it, as many dealer pages will verify. Driving tanks on the road is not allowed, I discovered this changing my licence as I lost the 'H' class entitlement, as they do not have such a category. It would seem only the Bundeswehr are allowed to drive tracked vehicles on the road. The document is in reference to live equipment, not de-militarised. As for collecting, it all seems the same as the UK from what I can see, bar the EU specification on deactivated weapons. Also the sale of Reich goods is tricky, although not illegal, just illegal to show emblems from my understanding.

Hi all, I always buy my paint from https://www.militaryvehiclepaint.co.uk as they always seem to get the shade I require, and paint can be very hit and miss to what you actually get , regardless of paint code. My question is this, with an enamel paint, such as Olive Drab, do you personally add hardener or just spray as is? I have success with both, I was just curious if I should always be adding hardener to these products to create a tougher more durable finish? Thank Paul

XMOD are a fantastic company, I really do rate them. If you have the NSN they seem to have the parts! Keep up the good work! Paul

Do you know where this truck is located? As if that bonnet number is correct I have the original one!

Just did the same search. I think a few are dead links and the others take me to a repaid manual for a WC51.

Oh? I could not find any prompting pdf? Can I ask which site? Thanks by the way

HI everyone, Sorry to post again in this section, but there isn't really a place for wanted on HMVF that I know of? Im after a few manual, which I know exist in the USA, but I cannot locate in Europe. They are for the Dodge WC38 TM10-1154 & TM10-1155 Can anyone help? There are a few online sources that either do not reply, or do not have them available to download or buy? Thanks Paul TM 10-1154 Parts List, Truck, 1/2-Ton 4x2, Dodge (Model WC-36, WC-37,WC-38, WC-39) Set 1. TM 10-1154 Parts List, Truck, 1/2-Ton 4x2, Dodge (Model WC-36, WC-37,WC-38, WC-39) Set 2. TM 10-1155 Maintenance Manual, Truck, 1/2-Ton 4x2, Dodge (Models WC-36, WC-37, WC-38 and WC-39).

I have a few feelers out in the USA now, and Belgium. I hope they come through. I wish I was as skilled in metal work as the Covell chap. He makes it look so easy! Maybe I should do a reaction video with me swearing and making a right mess of it all following his tutorial?

I have one from a Dodge WC38, which I think is the same as the WC54. I shall have to check to see what side it is. It is not in very good condition, but would serve as a template or to be patched up.

Hi Goanna, The actual picture was just for reference, mine is in unrestored condition. Gordon, thanks for the reply. Fills me with more hope, as I can explore more options for spares.

Alas, I have and am trying those avenues. Fingers crossed

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any experience with the fibre glass panels? I'm sceptical of how they will look on a military vehicle? There must be someone with a few in a barn/shed? Come on HMVF! We can do this...now everyone outside and check your sheds!