paul connor

Thanks Mike, So the two small lug-holes on the top/bottom have no function on the bezel? Simple grip and rotate on a retaining thread? OK. Will give that a bash - Didn't want to ruin it!

Hi guys, Can anyone offer advise on the removal of the ignition ON/OFF switch? It appears to have a recess in the top and the bottom, which doesn't contain screws, or appear to have sprung lugs? What is the removal procedure, as I don't want to damage it by forcing it. It's probably something simple, so I thought it's best to ask before you break! Cheers Paul http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/pict/301836722375_1.jpg I can't upload pictures for some odd reason, so hopefully this link works. It's the same switch from what I can see.

Hello Everyone, I wondered if you could all help me with a question? I know it is easier on here to ask, as unfortunately the CCKW forum seems so slow and inactive( No idea why that is). Can somebody shed some light on the conversion of oils, as the original manuals state acronyms and prefixes that I cannot decipher! So what oils do the following take, I have a fair idea but it's good to know the modern equivalents. 1. Engine 2. Gearbox 3. Transfer box 4. Steering box 5. Steering swivels 6. Axles. There may be more, please add if you own one and know something I have missed! I just would like to change all the oils as part of the winter service for the old war horse! Many thanks Paul

Here are a few snaps

Hi all, After negotiations with a forum member ( I don't know your screen name?) I finally made the plunge into WW2 Vehicles! I'm now the proud owner of a GMC CCKW 353 closed cab. Thought I would share a few pictures before I start doing a few jobs to it and personalising the ol'war horse!

I have advertised elsewhere on this site, but hopefully I may be more fruitful in here. I'm after an open cabbed 353, WITHOUT A WINCH, which is important as it will not fit in my workshop! Does anyone have any leads? Ideal I want as good as possible. Hopefully located near Sussex would always be handy! but, alas, not a deal breaker. Can anyone help? Drop me a PM or Email sussexpillbox@gmail.com

Hi everyone, I'm after a 353 CCKW currently. It must have NO winch, as it will not fit in my workshop. It must also be the open cab version with canvas cab roof. Can anyone help? Ideally I want one that is in good order. I don't mind a bit of work, but not a total restoration project - It must run and operate correctly. Ideally near East Sussex Many thanks Paul Sussexpillbox@gmail.com

Has anyone had dealings with this company, if so, what are they like? I'm tempted with a vehicle they have for sale, but I'm unsure of what tax is applied to sale prices, and also import implications of a purchase? Something that's cheap usual never ends up that way, so hopefully someone has had dealing and can advise. Thanks guys Paul

Does anyone have, or know of, a GMC353 for sale currently? Must be a canvas cab and ideally without a winch? As close to Sussex as possible while be great!

Greetings Ladies & Gentlemen. It is slowly becoming a reality that after owning MV's for 16 years, that I shall finally be moving into the WW2 camp! After the sale of my current project, I shall be looking to buy a GMC 353. Ideally I want a canvas cab with the gun-ring, although the latter is not a total must. I have a few questions, which I hope people may assist with who currently own, or have owned, a GMC. What do I look for on a vehicle? I guess tyres, as there are 12 I would want good tyres with no cracks and good tread etc. Cab- I understand this can rot lots, especially the sides and the floor. Brakes - hydrovac and usual leaks etc.. Engine I would guess is the usual smoke/noise issues. Any other pointers? Much appreciated and hopefully I shall post more soon as to how my quest goes for a new GMC! I hope I'm not dreaming with £7000 as a budget, I think I am in the right area for something nice Many thanks Paul Connor

I shall be coming over with Snatch VPK and 110 TUM. Heading over from Sussex on Wednesday(22nd) morning and staying for the duration. Just need to find time to pack everything I need!

The time came for the first of the show season runs. I took the Snatch and my 110 from Uckfield to Salisbury. The Snatch performed very well, other than being very thirsty! Only mechanical issue of the day was a heater control cable slipping from its mount and jamming the heater vent, which meant the heating was on for an hour on the Plains run. As my AC isn't charged it was somewhat uncomfortable for that duration as there is limited ventilation even with the roof hatch and extraction fan running. Around 38 degrees in the cab! Not helped with a rare glimpse of British sunshine!

Cheers for the offer Dave, but I have a few sets spare and limited space, as I keep storing parts! Thanks for the offer though. I sourced the engine from Hobson Engineering. They dieselised a large amount of the Army fleet and kept the engines in storage. They're pretty good on price for turnkey engines

Quick update - Problem solved! A good friend was passing , as he lives in Kent and not normally down this way, who has loads of experience with V8's. Turns out there were two faults. One was a blocked Carb, which is confusing as I cleaned and blew it through before. Second fault was the carb linkage had bent and was jamming! This together was causing a huge misfire as 4 cylinders were not getting fuel! Live and learn! Thanks for the help guys, at least I will see you all at shows now! Paul

Thanks for the replies once again. Just to add to the posts. The engine replacement was a recent Army Recon engine that was stored by a company that builds WMIK's and Snatches. The oil was primed before the first time the engine was started as I know the damage that this can indeed cause. I understand the idea of taking vehicle to a garage but logistically with an armoured vehicle that weighs around 3 tonnes, this can prove difficult. I also do not feel that many modern "mechanics" could diagnose issues as easy as a person with years of experience with engines such as the V8. But, I see your point. Most local garages in my area are not that great and the only other choice is main dealers. Which isn't going to be much use. I ask on here as it's a wealth of knowledge and people are always very helpful. I have not had time to get to the vehicle as yet, but plan to spend time there this weekend. Hopefully I will be able to tackle the fault with a few more ideas and possibilities. I have been eliminating certain parts by substitution, only as I have spares in the workshop. I shall let you all know how it goes on the weekend, as like me I suspect you're all curious of the outcome now. Thanks for the replies, I do appreciate it.

Hi guys. I have already had issues with the over run valves and soldered them shut. I will be at the workshop on Friday, so hopefully I can have a proper look. I have in-line filters and I have drained them and checked for debris and water, there was very little, albeit slight. I shall take pictures and some video on the weekend. Thanks for the replies.

Cheers again guys. The parts I have replaced I did replace with the originals again. I have learnt the hard way before by introducing more problems. The Carbs are twin SU's which I know can be a right pain to balance. I have pulled the leads early on and they did all appear to have a good blue spark. Currently it struggles to start unless full choke and will then really struggle to idle. When you try to rev the engine it'll choke up and try and stall, but you can feather the throttle and it'll pull through and rev faster. The faster top end of the revs does seem to be smoother, but it's hard to be sure. I have checked the timing and the rotor position and that seems fine. It's very odd that this would happen overnight from an engine that ran perfectly. I suspect I have a weekend of frustration ahead!

Thanks for the reply guys. I know I can't rule out new parts being at fault, but they seem perfect. There is no moisture in the workshop and the caps haven't been dropped. I shall switch it over again for the 3rd spare I have to be sure. The fame traps all seem intact and the hoses are great condition. Truly stumped.

Thanks for the reply, Steve. I have a new dizzy cap, so that's ruled out the moisture issue. The vehicle is kept in a secure workshop, so nobody has access but me. Also the leads are in the right order... I'm quite stumped.

Can anyone help? It seems a vehicle can really get you down after a while. You spend 18 months rebuilding a vehicle, registering, taxing and Mot'ing and manage 12 miles and it gives up. I had fitted a low mileage engine, as the original was dead. The new engine ran beautifully, some would say like a Swiss watch! until last week. It went on it's maiden voyage and performed as it should. No over-heating, misfiring or anything to cause alarm. I went 12 miles and even left it ticking over in the workshop before it was parked up. Next day I turn the key and it struggles to start. When it does it has the worst misfire mid-range and will not idle, WHY!?! I have changed the Spark plugs, Rotor arm, distributor cap, HT leads to no change. I have compression tested the engine and all give the same reading as they should. I have removed the carburetors and checked the floats are not perforated or sticking, that everything else is operating correctly. It has the correct SU oil in the pots. I have re-timed the engine, which was a struggle as idle is increasingly iffy. It is losing no coolant, oil or leaking anything. Nothing is obstructing intakes and all breather are OK> Distributor has been swapped and no change. Vacuum advance is fine. Fuel is flowing through the filters fine and seems to be at pressure. I have spark at all plugs and coil and module seems to be correct. What am I missing? Someone has mentioned that the cam shaft could be worn and I have a stuck/damaged valve etc. But would this just happend over night and wouldn't this show up during compression test? Totally stuck and your advice would be greatly appreciated! disheartened Paul

None on mine. I have a few friends who have found orange. Usually an indication of Bosnia? My Merlin report only states Northern Ireland and then to Iraq and cast.

Thanks for looking. Hopefully one will turn up at some point.

Can anyone help? I have looked through pretty much all avenues that I can think of, but I still can't find my Snatch in service. Does anybody have pictures they would share of Snatches in Northern Ireland or Iraq? Looking for 30KK29 Many thanks.

I have my V5 now. So it has taken 7 days, including weekends! Quite quick. Saying that, I had an MOT on VIN number and it was insured etc and ready for taxing. Unfortunately my attempted bribe "I'll buy the office lunch" didn't work for getting a more personal plate from my list of numbers haha

I expect many of you have fitted battery isolator switches to your vehicles. A simple and effective item for safety as well as security, but my question is this - Which battery terminal are you isolating? Positive or Negative? There seems to be an abundance of conflicts on various forums and groups and I'm unsure which one to do? My mind says Positive, but there seems many who chose Negative?