64EK26

Hi Does anyone have a Saxon APC manual for sale, before I go and buy one off the internet Preferably one that covers the Bedford Engine version Thanks Richard

More progress.... New mudguards arrived Started making the 'special' tops this one is for the spare wheel support and steps Next on list is making the supporting brackets out of 6mm thick angle and bar Still looking for pumps and filters

David, I don't have one, they were some photos that were sent to me so I knew what I am looking for. So if Jeremey is making some reproductions I will probably have one Cheers Richard

Hi Jeremey Good to see you at Newbury today .... (I didn't see this when I looked around) I think that there were various types, I was aware of the "fibre" type and the metal type. The only one I have photos os is this (I think it may be fibre) Cheers Richard

Hi Glad you got them off OK Cheers Richard

Thanks Wally Keep up the good work, it is very much appreciated and any news on B131 in the future would be good Cheers Richard

Thanks Wally You must have been looking hard Do you know where B131 was ? Cheers Richard

Thanks, I missed that thread

Hi I have seen several WW2 vehicles with rebuild plates on them that read “Ministry of Supply T.T.3(BR) This vehicle was vehicle was rebuilt to class I on dd/mm/yy By Army Auxiliary Workshop No. Bnnn” Come across workshop No. B131. B42 Is there a list of these workshops anywhere ? And what does the T.T.3(BR) signify ? Cheers Richard

Hi – I think I have misled you a bit… Torque multipliers can be used for both undoing and doing up nuts. I have a cheap torque multiplier which has a high gearing ratio (1:78) so it fairly easy to over tighten, i.e. 1Nm in and 78Nm is applied (hence my comment earlier). They are relatively compact so for changing wheels in the field they are fine, as you don’t need to have an ‘industrial’ size torque wench or breaker bar. Torque multipliers are available with different gear ratios, from 1:3 upwards and decent ones are very expensive. When I got my MW for restoration, I could not remove the nearside wheel nuts, even when using a 3/4" drive and bouncing up and down on a 6 foot bit of scaffolding. An industrial electric impact hammer also had no effect; the last resort was a cheap torque multiplier which did the trick. Industrial electric impact hammers are expensive and the air driven ones need to be of high quality and use a lot of air. I agree with andym, that it is best to ‘break’ the lock first by ‘shocking’ it, you may still need to apply a considerable torque to fully undo the nut if it is very rusty. Not sure where you live; and if the vehicle is moveable (by the way vehicle are you working on), you may be better off taking it to your local garage/tyre fitters and let them slacken them for you using and industrial air impact gun. You could also try a mobile tyre fitters. I did this, before I got my ‘gadgets’ when trying to get some old land rover spilt rims apart, they had rusted solid. Cheers Richard

Hi For really stuck wheel nuts etc I use a 3/4" drive torque multiplier, no more standing and jumping up an down on a scaffold bar. Do not use a torque muliplier for tightening them up as the torques they can apply are enormous and can shear the wheel studs. As noted above left hand threads normally have an L stamped on the nuts Also I have found that slightly tightening a nut before undoing it often helps to get them freed more easily Cheers Richard

Hi Trying to sort out a modern regulator to replace the innards of a CAV 75BT-19X for my Bedford MW Has anyone used a Lucas RB108 mounted in the old regulator box and is this the correct way to wire it up ? Cheers Richard

Hi Don't think they are a Bedford MW, the MW ones have three lift the dot fittings down leading(front) edge. I looked at these as I am after a pair for my MW Cheers Richard

Still plodding along Tank hinges fitted More trial fitting of panels etc. Wiring loom nearly sorted Near side wing repaired, along with a load of "just jobs". The "just jobs" are the ones that seem to take for ever to do but need to be done. Now I know that all the bits basically fit, the are all coming off to be painted. The next big thing to trial fit is the water tank, when this is done, I can trial fit the mudguards (hopefully these arrive in the next few weeks). My target was to get the truck ready for Normandy this year, unfortunately this won't happen, I have got too much to do and I am not going to rush it. Will keep you posted Cheers Richard

Hi There are a couple of good videos of Austin Champs wading I think that these are at the same facility https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUXkbT_UpsA and a a later one Cheers Richard

Hi Danny Looking really good - keep up the good work I like the battery cable protection, will be doing he same on mine Cheers Richard

Hi Being a pipe thread, probably 1/4 " NPT Cheers Richard

Your chassis number falls within a range that were produced under contract V3964. If you get a copy of the keycard from the RLC, museu, this should confirm this. The Z number range Z16000000 to Z1699999 were allocated during the war to trucks that had been re-built. So you vehicle was first rebuilt during the war, probably using the original chassis, but other parts from new/salvaged vehicles. It was the re-built again in 1953 and allocated a post war serial number 22RA28. Some photos of your vehilce would be good Cheers Richard

Hi Vehicle is from contract V3964 (for 6355 vehicles), this was for various types of MW's, but mainly MWD's. Data from contract card Z4427893 - Z4427992 type A/T (100 vehicles) Z4427993 - Z4428426 type MWC (434 vehicles) Z4428427 - Z4434247 type MWD (5821 vehicles) The data on the contract card disagrees with that of the Chillwell census the Z number you have is a war time rebuild number,

Hi Does anyone have a spare Bedford 28HP Dynamo Lucas D45 they wish to sell, like the one in the photo Thanks Richard

Were they actually all rubber as rubber was in short supply in WW2? I thought that inflatable rubber tubes were used to support a canvas type structure but I may be totally wrong Cheers Richard

Looks a good project, but there is a lot of work and not for the faint hearted. Might be tempted in the price was lower This is in a yard just down the road from me, let me know if you are seriously thinking about buying it and I should be able to wander down and take a load more photos for you Cheers Richard

I think that this will be of interest 21 inch 8-cylinder engine tests Admiralty: Royal Navy Torpedo Factory and Torpedo Experimental Establishment: Reports and Technical Notes. RNTF SCIENTIFIC AND TECHNICAL REPORT. 21 inch 8-cylinder engine tests. Held by: The National Archives - Admiralty, Navy, Royal Marines, and Coastguard Date: 1940 Reference: ADM 290/450 Subjects: Armed Forces (General Administration) | Manufacturing | Navy | Research | Weapons link is http://discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/details/r/C528904 I will also have a look in the Collingwood collection, but I think all the torpedo archives we have are much much earlier Cheers Richard

I assume it is for a 21" torpedo..... Bit surprised that it has 8 cylinders, I thought that most radial engines had an odd number of cylinders to give a good balance. Cheers Richard

This film has only recently been digitized, hopefully the IWM will eventually digitize them all. Good shot of an MWC at the end of this film. https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060007889 and one being towed here https://www.britishpathe.com/video/invasion-scenes-europe-50 and passing though Belgium https://www.britishpathe.com/video/british-troops-enter-belgium It is interesting to see how all the kit is carried, some more stacked up than others as well as adaptions on the spare wheel carrier Cheers Richard