fv1609

That looks promising Bernard yes I might well go for some as it makes a specific point about the heat. The foam I'm using is actually sleeping mat roll. I find normal foam collapses when it gets a good dose of glue. On top of the foam I will stick Dunlop Trakmark vinyl lining. Many AFVs used this. I remember may years ago looking at the Trakmark on a newly issued AS90 & that was lifting away in the afternoon sun. I notice that later Shorlands had large plastic studs to make certain of it being anchored down in the corners. So it has always been a bit of a problem area, but the Wickes spray on stuff just seemed too easy!

To reline the Shorland I have previously used Dunlop thixotropic glue that is rather chunky & difficult to spread evenly or Evo-stik, which is runnier but more messy. I was delighted to find this spray adhesive http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/240143 It was very easy to use & stuck the foam to the body quite effectively. The problem was at a show once the sun had been shining for most of the day, most of the foam had fallen off & lost its stickiness. I see the there is an Evo-stik carpet adhesive http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/227811 but I don't know whether that is as effective as normal Evo-stik when subjected to heat? Does anyone have any recommendations for a spray on glue that will resist the effects of heat once it has set please?

Its listed in my 1952 Schedule of Army Telecommunications Test Equipment. It was made by Muirhead for measuring gains & losses Use from Unit to Base. Comprising an oscillator 100c/s to 40kc/s & an attenuator to 50db Standard output: 1mW +/- 0.25db into 600 ohms Variable output: Continuously variable +6 to -50 db Line system: Unbalanced 600 ohm termination Measurement of high levels up to +30 db by a separate input Uses Supply unit TMS No.1 Mk 2 that requires 110-250v at 40-60c/s or 12v battery EMER TELS Y 140/1

I hadn't realised there was an earlier page to this thread. Sorry for some repetition, but it was 3 years ago. Here is the Rover installation.

I have got it somewhere. Many might suppose this might have been issued from Aug 1969 onwards. But it was in anticipation & was issued in Oct 1968. It was described in more general terms in: Land Operations. Volume III - Counter Revolutionary Operations. Part 2 - Internal Security. Army Code No. 70516 (Part 2) Nov 1969 See page 2 of this http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?17955-Non-Lethal-Conflict There was a specific Rover instruction in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES Q 025 Installation Instruction No.15. June 1972 Ferrets imported from Hong Kong Police 30 years ago were fitted such devices.

Wayne I've come to realise that the primer on the Shorland armour is the same yellow. FV1609 floor is gradually going back in, but the problem is not just fitting the ali floor but the plywood floor as well, then the battery frame, then the battery boxes & then the seat. Once its all back I don't want to see bits I have missed as I keep seeing little bits I have missed then go back over again & dribble a bit on something in an attempt to get at some deep crevice. So it is a cycle of sky blue, lemon, DBG & black touch ups. So mavbe I will take the Pig to Evesham next year, but the trouble is all them hills. I don't doubt either will make up them eventually but what concerns me is the moronic driver be it of HGV or car that thinks they can bully me into going faster by tailgating. Having to go into first gear often causes recriminations, which I can do without.

The Shorland has just passed its MOT & ready to come. Just hope it can cope with all those hills on the way

Wayne or just don't bother with the 15v battery it only uses that on the high resistance range. For automotive use you will will be measuring around on the low resistance range & that runs off a 1.5v torch cell. It used to be called a U2 but is now called something else.

Here the pheon is at the top, from a 1971 MAOS

Sorry Howard its a bit dented.

Got most of it on, need to do a bit more tarting up though. Don't know why as nobody is going to see it

Perhaps it was the "Daimler engine" he was talking about?

I agree there was an item missed from my order. When I told them they sent it by Special Delivery & refused to accept any payment for it. How a firm responds to a problem is always an acid test for quality. So well done PAB. But another major dealer was not so impressive. By a web search they were the only stockist of an item I was after. It showed up as in stock on line. I ordered it on the phone immediately. I was told it would be despatched that day. After a week nothing came & no contact from them. When I rang I was told they have been out of stock for some months & didn't know when more would turn up. So I won't bother with them again.

Yes very good service & knowledge, they also have odd military items that other dealers don't seem to have. I would also recommend Dunsfold for similar reasons.

Alec just search for caps for Ferret smokies ie Smoke discharger, No.4 Mk 1. Most pics of UDR Shorlands seem to show the flat ones. These are easier to obtain, although you may find that they are thicker than they should be because you have been sold caps from torsion bar ends for Stalwarts I believe.

Trading as: Lionheart Vehicles Ltd Lakewood House Byth Hall Blyth Nr Retford S81 8HL

If you want to rule out problems associated with the starter motor, then there is always the starting handle

I'm afraid not Ray they ceased manufacture of that many years ago. You sometimes see them on auction sites. The most common is Avo 8 there are several for sale at the moment, they have more ranges. But they are not cheap although I bought one last week for £10! Something like this would be fine: http://www.maplin.co.uk/mt-2017-large-analogue-multimeter-626116#specification It has volts & ohms, unlike many low cost analogue meters its DC current range is 10 amps. Many cheaper meters only do 0.25 or 0.1 amps. The Avo 12 can read up to 360 amps, yes & that's a lot more than many digitals can do. The other point about analogue meters is that on ohms you can zero out the resistance of the leads. When you measure ohms on a digital meter the lead resistance is added to the displayed reading.

Ray the Avo 12 is an analogue (moving coil) multimeter especially appropriate for automotive use with ranges that include 18 & 36 volts, so ideal for 12 & 24 volt systems. Many EMERs quote readings to be expected on an Avo 12 or Avo 7. It has low ohms per volt meaning that there is a small current drawn as it measures the voltage. Unlike digital meters that draw virtually no current that make them ideal in electronic circuitry. The problem is that digital meters whether you are measuring volts or ohms can often throw up meaningless readings when there is nothing to measure or the voltages may be at a very tiny current but are not meaningful sources of power that are significant in an automotive application. If you know there is a voltage there & you want a reading to several decimal places then digital is fine. But if you are prodding around trying to see if the is a voltage there or not & not sure of what magnitude it might be, I find a digital meter is quite a mischievous device to rely on. Often I do not need a very accurate reading as such but need to see a trend with a needle moving up or down. A flashing digital display is tiresome. I know better meters have a bar graph as well but this lacks the smooth continuity of a moving needle. I do have a high spec Fluke digital built to a military spec but it displays the short comings above. I like my Avo 12 best, in fact so much so I have two. One has a REME Wksp number on it, if its good enough for them it should be good enough for me

Ray, so with the ignition on (& ignoring the starter for now) I would expect you to read 24 v on SW with the points open reducing to 12v when the points closed. Use an insulated screwdriver to either open the points if they are closed or close them electrically if they are open. Insulated because there is 300v around the primary on opening (that is the spark at the points) If you don't get readings of significant voltage it looks like a defect in one of the ballast resistors (there are 2 in series). For these measurements are you using an analogue meter or one of the digital things that seem quite happy to throw up trivial readings even if it may have nothing to measure? I am a fan of the Avo 12

Raymond when you say you get 0.7 volts at the coil, is this at SW or CB terminal? Getting a spark at the points is not really an indication that the condenser is ok. The job of the condenser is to reduce the sparking as the points open as it absorbs the back EMF induced into the primary winding which is in the order of 300 volts. A failing condenser will allow a bigger spark, so it is not a sign of good health as such.

Welcome Neil. How are you getting on putting together that Shorland?

That NSN relates to FV938042 & was only used in UK I don't think the DMC of 9HY exists, so is just a typo/dyslexation of 9AHY

Well 9AHY is the DMC for heavy tanks & derivatives plus mine ploughs.

Here is The Bastard with flame thrower in operation. Yes I agree Richard I think it is the third image at the start of the vehicles that looks like a Bedford. It is the vehicle much later in the sequence is of one of the other types you described. What I was criticising was that it was captioned "Bedford Armoured Truck" but looks like The Bastard. The profile of course looks quite different from the usual profile of a Bedford Pig below.