fv1609

Neil well after a few months of the original HTC contract expiring I continued to use it but found battery consumption was increasing even with new ones. So I changed to S2 as well. What I didn't like about the HTC newer range. You cannot remove the battery for last ditch reboot or replace it in a couple of years. Furthermore no external card so that when the phone dies there is stuff trapped inside. Only one thing I don't like about the S2 is that it goes in phases of locking up & warming up. This happens once every few weeks or sometimes every day. But been ok for several weeks now. Cured by removing battery to reboot. But sometimes the battery has been flattened. On forums it seems a very widespread problem. Nobody has a definitive answer or cure. The wise & knowledgeable will say remove some apps as they are clashing. But I have not installed any apps, I'm very wary of the dross that is out there that people seem only to have to install. Yet wouldn't install on their PC. Perhaps S3 has cured it as my wife has one of those & has none of these problems. I've got 18 months to run before I can change to S4 or maybe S5 by then!

I have just re-read this. I should have said that it was of course when his vegetables were still growing in the garden. :-D

You bet, where I used to live we were not on mains drainage. The neighbour use to spread 'it' on his vegetables.:wow:

After 100 years & nothing new at Chelsea Flower Show 2013 101 years ago the British Army was building excreta incinerators Beehive incinerator from Manual of Elementary Military Hygiene 1912 :-D

Agreed I wouldn't argue with that. The image is in the ignition article that has been on site for a number of years. The comment has been passed to me on a number of occasions. But it was the picture I took after my first season of using electronic ignition I was using it to express my delight that at least it wasn't carboned up

Yes, yes & no. This is a RSN13P at the end of the season after about 300 miles on electronic ignition. But this was a properly set up system. I would advise against fitting the electronic ignition until it is running in its original set up & only then convert. You can have good performance with a properly set up conventional system. But ensuring it is kept that way is the challenge eg setting points, making sure they are synchronised, checking the capacitor is still good because they can fail gradually & allow leakage without there being a dramatic & overt failure. All these anxieties can be swept aside with electronic ignition so that if you have starting/running problems there is less to start pulling apart in a diagnostic witch hunt.

Yes. That's what I used before going electronic.

Ross not sure what you mean by civilian settings. If you mean unscreened plugs that would increase the gap & you can't do that with RSN13P nor should you want to as the gap will be too great for the available HT. You can't really get a wire brush in on RSN13P plugs. Besides too much brushing can leave tiny metal deposits around the insulator. The only way of cleaning is a very short burst of abrasive powder cleaning. There is a danger in that too much use can damage the electrodes microscopically making it more difficult for a spark to jump in that a higher voltage is needed to be sure of a reliable spark. This said I have never actually had a problem blasting my RSN13P plugs. The fact that some fuel is being used doesn't mean the vent is completely clear. There may be a constriction. you could try blowing in from the vent & see if there is resistance with the fuel cap off. I once had a poor fuel problem because there was air being drawn in the fuel filter bleed screw as the washer was defective. If there was failure in the fuel pump main diaphragm (there are two) then fuel would leak into the sump & the oil level would go up (not sure how oil works in a Ferret, I have a Pig) The heat shield I suppose stops the cable insulation getting cooked with might then break down. If you were near me (Salisbury) I could test the insulation. The capacitor is rated as a high temperature one, but excess heat for that will do it no good. Again all your coils, lead, capacitors, rotor arms etc can be tested quite easily if you were near me. Yes use a Land Rover 0.2 mfd capacitor. These are rated at 500v the energising voltage is irrelevant. It is the back EMF that gives about 300v as the contacts open that is important. The spark as the breaker opens is this back EMF. Do not use a radio or suppressor type capacitor only a distributor one as that is rated for the EMF & for heat tolerance. I don't think I have ever tested a NOS proper "B Series" capacitor & found it to be without some sort of leakage!

RSN13P are fine once everything is set correctly & the engine is running nicely, but once carboned up they stay like that. This can happen very quickly! If you have RSN12Y the gap should be 15-18 thou (about the thickness of a thumbnail). The RSN13P is set at that do not try adjusting the gap as the electrode will break. Even if you took some known to be working plugs from a FFR Land Rover, your spark will be smaller than in the 24v Land Rover. This is because the inductance of the secondary is 40 henries & that of a FFR Land Rover 75-80 henries (depending on coil type) (Also the Rover system uses a 10-volt coil & because of this the primary circuit has a lower time constant). Check that (other than at start up) when the points are closed the voltage to the coil is 12v & that there is not some fault in or connections to the ballast resistors in the junction box applying 24 volts all the time. This of course would cause the coil to overheat & cease to function. I am surprised that the removal of the filter box improved things as it should only be about 0.01 ohms unless the coil is drawing an excessive current. I'm afraid I couldn't read the link as I don't subscribe to facebook.

In official terms probably not. I have EMER COMMUNICATIONS INSTALLATIONS A 000 this is the index that lists all the EMERs relevant in Oct. 1982 FV600 series is covered in K 020 - K 559 it all seems to relate to Larkspur I'm afraid.

Ross a frustrating business, you're having quite a time of it. Just a couple of thoughts. What plugs are you using? What do they look like? Carboned up? RSN13P are very prone to this. Consider the picture below although there is sparking it is not where it should be! Use RSN12Y which can heat up more & burn off the carbon. If you are make sure the gap is not too wide, if it is under compression & load there may not be enough voltage for proper ignition. The other thing is the fuel filter clean & are the fuel tank vents clear including (if fitted) the valve in the vent line to prevent fuel escaping in the event of a roll. It is a very nice place for a spiders nest with dead flies etc

Haven't been aware of any problems for a long time now. But I suppose that is a measure of your success in keeping it all running smoothly. Many thanks for your work down in the engine room.

Thank you Boris. So twin fuel tanks, central lock for the tyre locker & probably Hella light clusters. At first I thought there was no escape hatch, but the gutter over the window suggests it could open. It is much wider than standard so even fat policemen can escape.

I've yet to do to the back end what I have done to the front end, but that will have to wait until winter. I've now got a CCTV to fit hopefully more reliable than my previous lash up that flipped 'mirror image' to 'direct vision' whereby I was in lane two of what became 4-lane motorway & things seeming to overtake me on my left were really on the right:wow: I'm hoping to respray it in the next week. For the last 5 years it has been in OD as a stop gap, although that is wrong it has disappointingly received no criticism. I now have paint that matches the Shorland, this regular causes upsets as it is perceived to be wrong, so looking forward to some criticism for that. Although I'm pleased to say the white interior & plywood floor continues to be a good stimulus for the critics

All finished, now to cover it up :undecided:

Thank you for those. Clearly Mk 3. Apart from the single windscreen they seem to be based on the anti-hijack SB303 with mount for the HK33 sniper's rifle below the vision block in the turret. I assume these are the same era as the four supplied to the Dutch RIJKSPOLITIE.

The EMER for conversion to ambulance role was first issued in April 1975. There is no mention of removing the turret. Yet in 1976 an EMER for additional padding in the ambulance shows a diagram but with no turret. A parallel instruction for the APC does show a turret. So were the turrets removed in 1975-76?

Perusing some EMERs, as one does on a wet afternoon, I see that the additional padding in NI vehicles was glued on with EC847. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Aerospace/Aircraft/Prod_Info/Prod_Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20SOG5000000_nid=V69G89P6PDbe1K3HXBTMF8gl

I suppose if it was that patchy then the previously naked areas would be receptive to the new glue unhindered. That might might carry the weaker previously glued bits. Given the susceptibility to heat of the old stuff then maybe a hot a gun would let it be scraped off at least the metal surface?

No hadn't read that Bernard. At least the spray should give uniformity of coverage, I found with the other glues I would tend to get ridges of excessive glue & when the mating surfaces came together a ridge on a ridge held the rest a bit high so there was not a flat universal adhesion. I will use the thixotropic stuff I have got for the fiddly bits & edges. Particularly fixing the final stage with the Trakmark folded under I don't want glue dispensed beyond certain defined limits. When this stuff comes I'll re-glue the major panels & wheel the Shorland out to sit in the sun, although that may be a while yet judging by the drizzle that's here. What I had forgotten was that the failed glue will still be there, so will that be the weak link that limits the effectiveness of any subsequent adhesions?

Thank you for that Lee, you posted it just in time! I came back to the thread to link to the stuff Chris had used & found your link. I like the uniformity of spread with a spray apart from the ease of use. So I'll be giving it a go

Andy yes see what you mean, it certainly is just to the edge & not underneath. I think as on your example earlier over the edge would seem to be the better way although the vinyl surface to metal union is the weak link. When I glue the foam I don't glue the edge so as to allow the under-tuck with the Trakmark, which then has to be glued to the foam & vehicle body. Does get a bit messy trying to get it all held down!

Chris well if you used that stuff to good effect in the heat that's the sort of recommendation I was after so I'll get some. Andy I've had Trakmark before but its not been adhesive. Given that it ceased production I think at least 15 years ago the glue must be quite old. I don't know whether that coating will be an impediment to the joining with new glue. But I think I might use my non glued roll, then the new adhesive can seep into the cloth backing more effectively. I thought the standard practice was to fold it over the edges of the foam. It was certainly the way it was done on the Shorland. Although that does raise the problem of getting the vinyl surface itself to bind to the adhesive. Around the edges of hatches & doors is a particular problem as there is a raised splash guard. Although the foam is contoured the edges a prone to lift away particularly where thin sections are needed.

Graham this was covered here: http://1914-1918.invisionzone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=163818&hl=communicating&do=findComment&comment=1592487 I don't know if klaxons were standard fittings on aircraft. I have a 1921 publication on martial law in India that requires that the klaxon is sounded before an illegal gathering can be machine-gunned.

Yes I will do Alec. The dilemma is some of the Trakmark I was going to use first is self-adhesive, but I don't know how tough that adhesion will be, but it might grip the roll mat quite well. I've not helped the bond to the body by painting it with primer & then gloss. The original surface was a thin coat of primer & given the rust that has radiated around the rear hatch in particular I wanted a more rust resistant surface underneath.