fv1609

Yes excellent Jack. That is the same idea as used in many British postwar vehicles. Although one should give it a bit of a rest if it doesn't start after the first few attempts. Because applying 24v to a 12v coil could overheat it. Although the point is with the high cranking current there is going to be less than 24v when cranking takes place. It is generally thought that more voltage will provide more HT but this is not quite true as once the coil is saturated with magnetism applying more voltage cannot magnetise it any more! The extra voltage will just overheat the coil. I think the point is that the ballast resistor being short circuited removes the voltage drop & coil output drop that would occur otherwise during cranking.

Jack I would use use your existing 12v ignition set up in conjunction with a ballast resistor from the 24v supply. Measure the resistance of the primary winding of the 12v ignition coil but I expect it will be in the order of 3 ohms. Then choose a ballast resistor or combination of resistors to give you the same resistance. Wire that in series with your 24v supply & the coil. That way when the points close your 12v coil will receive half the voltage of your 24v supply. Given that the coil will draw about 4 amps with the points closed you will need a resistor with a rating of 50 watts. Although the current drawn is not continuous it is best to rate the resistor at that. This has the convenience of using the ignition system that you already have. More importantly the time constant of the circuit will be lower because there will be less inductance than with a 24v coil. This means that the magnetic field in the coil can build up & collapse more rapidly than with a 24v coil. This more abrupt change can provide a higher voltage particularly at high revs. An added advantage in cold starting situation, with starter motor drawing a lot of current you may not have the 12v at the coil. For a few moments at start up you could have a switch that temporarily short circuits the ballast resistor giving your coil output something of a boost.

Ok Nigel it's just that I once was caught out with peculiar steering until I realised the problem. As for photos either use a photo hosting site like Photobucket & paste the link. Or if you are not used to that post the images direct on here. Go to the Reply with Quote or Add Comment & scroll down click on Manage Attachments Click that, click Add Files Click Basic Uploader Then click Browse so select image from your PC Then Add File Then + if you want to add more (up to 5 at a time I think) Then Upload, there will be a delay when this happens. If the the image is large don't worry it will be trimmed to about 250kb I think A thumbnail at the bottom will appear when this is done Then click Insert in Line with a number of images uploaded in brackets. Click this & number changes to (0) then click Done You will find the image link within the site at the end of you message. I tend to press the return key twice just to get the images on a separate line & spaced a little.

I don't think you need to take the rear wheels off yet. You can get at the rear braking system from underneath. Save the rear chassis work for later, concentrate on everything you need to do with the front floor out & wheels off. Otherwise you can have it under restoration for years, I only properly did my rear chassis last year. As for wheels I just used a needle scaler & wire cup in an angle grinder. But with good personal protection the wire can fly off at a hell of a speed & slip can rip through soft stuff easily Cheaper, quicker & more satisfying than some fancy professional job. But it you go for that remember when you tighten the wheel nuts fancy coatings will crack & flake there, then you have bits that will look like garden furniture after a year out in the open.

Yes just one size of official brake pipe, CH for fuel & air, then much narrower pipe for the fuel breathers that exit up through the front antenna feed holes. Now as a routine I put 6-tonne axle stands under each inner lower fulcrum pin under each wheel station irrespective of whether I have a wheel off or not. It just makes me more relaxed doing anything underneath when I consider that Pig that snapped a torsion bar whilst parked up. I notice my newer stands have discs on their feet, the earlier ones were just right angle edges that could cut into the ground & loose you a bit of stability & height. Jacking up can be strange, you really need two jacks. Assuming you have a jack powerful enough as you jack on a belly plate both wheel stations droop. Or I put railway sleepers under the belly plate then move the jack to the outer lower fulcrum pin to jack up the wheel. I always try to roll the wheel up against a wall rather than let it lie flat which is a pain to upright again as you well know.

Ok Nigel the Chilwell register shows that 27 BK 99 was a Mk 2 Flying Pig, so I assume someone divested it to some degree. Anyway photos would show what's happened. As for the stiff steering. Might sound a silly question but are you sure you have adequate air pressure in the front tyres? It can be misleading looking at run flats! Should be 25psi for a Mk 1 & 30psi for Mk2. Yes its amazing how well it can sound even on 3 cylinders!

Welcome Nigel, so two Mk2 Pigs. Look forward to seeing pictures & hearing if there are any differences you have noticed between them. I have looked through my lists for pictures of 05 BK 18 & 27 BK 99 but nothing I'm afraid. I own 27 BT 95 seemingly close to yours but is actually far removed.

As you know there are three sizes of brake hose. The two sizes used on the front I have found match up to those used on a MGA car Inner (13") = SBR053 Outer (15") = SBR051 I have not found an equivalent for the rear. I discovered these sizes by carrying the three examples around at a Beaulieu Autojumble & any hose I came across I tried to match up. There is a company that I believe supplies a kit of hoses for Humber & indeed some people have gone to hydraulic engineers & had hoses made up. In the past good connectors have been re-used, but I doubt in these litigious times that any company would be prepared to re-use old fittings. A thing to bear in mind is that these modern connectors have a narrower bore than the original spec. So any replacements should be bilateral as otherwise there would be a dissimilar flow through differing bores but most people would be replacing them bilaterally anyway. The original hoses would be very old & untrustworthy by now. However a company in North(?) Cornwall manufactured hoses for the MOD for use in NI. I have a small stock of these, but I'm not sure whether there would be any surplus to my expected future needs - I need to check.

Wayne I used proper brake pipe, but CH pipe for the fuel & airlines. The brake pipe allowed tighter bends but the CH stuff could collapse on a tight bend even using a bending tool.

Wayne be particularly curious about the state of the front brake pipe that travels under the radiator. Remove the belly plate & shove your head up. As a Mk 1 I suspect all the pipes might be original, so unless they are all very good I would be tempted to replace all the pipes (& hoses) it is quite easy to do with a simple flanging device & recycling your connectors. If you are particularly lucky some might be brass. So you will need the floor up then you can evaluate the fuel pipes. Yes I know one thing leads to another, but it is a case of making the most of the access....then of course you can needle the chassis & work on getting the flaking rubber off the torsion bars & so it goes on :-D

We did have 20 at one stage, but downsized the flock. But if anyone gets past them then there is the heavy mob, who have insisted on anonymity.

Doesn't work like that Derek, no point in eating the security guards :-D

They are pretty scary without the need for a one-wheeled AFV Tim. They even eat their feed from that steel helmet.

This my shelter, should I evict the geese & sell it?

Rob it was originally registered in 1979 in Contract No WV9619/FB341 04 GX 45 - 07 GX 25 Asset Code No. 1140-1382 (RHD) 07 GX 26 - 08 GX 65 Asset Code No. 1140-6382 (LHD)

As it says there "This Defence Standard specifies the requirements for one grade of grease for use as a general purpose lubricant for automotive and artillery applications, over the temperature range minus 54°C to plus 105°C." Just use a normal everyday automotive GP grease. The best summary of POLs is in DEF STAN 01-5

Just use a general purpose grease that you use for all the other grease points.

XG-279 Wayne. Operation No.41 in the 1,000 mile Servicing Schedule.

Yes I believe he was complaining that the advert was a copy of his work as there were so many similarities. But given the historical event that this depicts it seems difficult to see how it could not be similar.

Given the ownership, we may have to wait for 3 years

Fair enough then.

Are you sure that it is actually 518? As I have 518 listed as a Lamp, Stop Tail & would have expected it to have red lens. My reference is RAF MT Electrical Equipment Section 16E 1954. Unlike a VAOS the RAF lists the applications & the only one is Land Rover.

That was a good link thank you, although shame there's no 1950s.

I never knew Mike well enough to gauge his sense of humour, but I think the following is an example. He insisted his Shorland was stencilled underneath "IN THE EVENT OF FINDING THIS VEHICLE UPSIDE DOWN TELEPHONE xxxx". I never did find any evidence that any Shorlands were ever marked this way....but Mike was very convincing, so much so that I still always look underneath any I see

Although that does cover Gen Panel No.1 Mk 1 it is essentially the same information but easier in EMER POWER P134/1. The other thing is does your Mod plate have '2' struck out? If not I will show you the mod in POWER P137/1 Mod Instr No.1